Whats the worse job on your Model ?
- Thread starter chrisg
- Start date
Try changing the rad fan temp sender on a turbo - simple job made impossible
Monkeythree
New member
The job I enjoyed least on my S2 restoration was de-rusting around the lower rear suspension mounts. Several hours spent on my back wielding a drill with a wire cone bit with a steady flow of rusty flakes and hot wire fragments raining down into my eyes/ears/nose/mouth/hair. Most of the spannering jobs were pretty straightforward really.
What's difficult about the batwing? If you are referring to the design then it's not a difficult job at all. However it is made into a pain in the bum by rusty fasteners (spire-clips, I think they are called) which refuse to play ball once more than about four days old.
My top difficult job; changing the oil pressure sensor. 'Tis a pig of a job due to poor access. Next one would be changing the clutch - not hard, just very (very) long!
(I should add that I can't comment on the tribulations of maintenance on a turbo as I own a >cough< superior S2!) [
]
Oli.
My top difficult job; changing the oil pressure sensor. 'Tis a pig of a job due to poor access. Next one would be changing the clutch - not hard, just very (very) long!
(I should add that I can't comment on the tribulations of maintenance on a turbo as I own a >cough< superior S2!) [
]Oli.
edh
New member
Priming the oil pump - none of the "internet approved" methods worked. In the end I did it with a vacuum pump acting on the oil pressure sender hole
Engine mounts on a Turbo - didn't enjoy that at all, felt like giving up several times...
I'd also have to mention the engine swap that Chris helped with/masterminded... He went off on the Sunday to see his mum, before the new engine went in. I think it was probably some time that evening I saw the text he helpfully sent me just after he left: "don't forget the reference sensor" [] Loosening the bellhousing bolts was a right PITA (not to mention the subsequent retrieval of the dropped hex bit from inside the bellhousing.. []) Gearbox removal & refitting, on your own, under the car on axle stands in the garage, is a fairly awkward job.
Engine mounts on a Turbo - didn't enjoy that at all, felt like giving up several times...
I'd also have to mention the engine swap that Chris helped with/masterminded... He went off on the Sunday to see his mum, before the new engine went in. I think it was probably some time that evening I saw the text he helpfully sent me just after he left: "don't forget the reference sensor" [
] Loosening the bellhousing bolts was a right PITA (not to mention the subsequent retrieval of the dropped hex bit from inside the bellhousing.. []) Gearbox removal & refitting, on your own, under the car on axle stands in the garage, is a fairly awkward job.
chrisg
Member
I think there are certain jobs on the 924/944/928 that are almost impossible without the correct tool. Some of these are Porsche specific e.g. flywheel lock, pin spanner etc. Some are generic such as clutch alignment tool, go through sockets, socket spanners etc. There seems to be much less reliance on bespoke tools for our Porsches than say Beemers, from E36, E46, E91 (just about to find out....).
I have found though, (and I could be biased..... a tad...) that working on the 951 is pretty straightforward as everything is metric and 10, 13, 15,17,19mm for most straightforward stuff - albeit access (particularly the oil sender Oli ....) is a PITA. Yes, you need 32/27mm spanners for the belt rollers and the oil cooler pipes oh and a deep 24mm 6 sided socket for the crank pulley bolt, but everything else is bog standard metric/generic service station.
I have found though, (and I could be biased..... a tad...) that working on the 951 is pretty straightforward as everything is metric and 10, 13, 15,17,19mm for most straightforward stuff - albeit access (particularly the oil sender Oli ....) is a PITA. Yes, you need 32/27mm spanners for the belt rollers and the oil cooler pipes oh and a deep 24mm 6 sided socket for the crank pulley bolt, but everything else is bog standard metric/generic service station.
chrisg
Member
Just re-reading the above thread:
Ed - yes juggling a 944 gearbox (even without ~ 2kgs of hypoid) is hard work:
1. You've a heavy diff unit in there as well (compared to a lower weight RWD gearbox)
2. The Balance/ CoG is all over the place and makes moving up and down hard work - after all its designed for an Audi Coupe with all the weight backwards away from the diff/input shaft.
Tony
I imagine dropping the TT out of the rear axle is hard work, never had to do it myself - I dropped the rear axle to do the brake & Fuel lines, messy/dirty but not difficult.
Ref. the caliper lift, for a home mechanic ( i.e. without gas bottles etc) it can be very difficult to get enough heat into the retaining button screws. I did my front caliper last year, managed all but one of the 8 for 2 x calipers on my own then had to get a local friendly mechanic to remove the last one !
I guess the bottom line is that because of the age of all of our cars, by default (unless theyve been apart or replaced) all of the bolts/nuts/ fitments are rusted and encrusted....
Ed - yes juggling a 944 gearbox (even without ~ 2kgs of hypoid) is hard work:
1. You've a heavy diff unit in there as well (compared to a lower weight RWD gearbox)
2. The Balance/ CoG is all over the place and makes moving up and down hard work - after all its designed for an Audi Coupe with all the weight backwards away from the diff/input shaft.
Tony
I imagine dropping the TT out of the rear axle is hard work, never had to do it myself - I dropped the rear axle to do the brake & Fuel lines, messy/dirty but not difficult.
Ref. the caliper lift, for a home mechanic ( i.e. without gas bottles etc) it can be very difficult to get enough heat into the retaining button screws. I did my front caliper last year, managed all but one of the 8 for 2 x calipers on my own then had to get a local friendly mechanic to remove the last one !
I guess the bottom line is that because of the age of all of our cars, by default (unless theyve been apart or replaced) all of the bolts/nuts/ fitments are rusted and encrusted....
edh
New member
chrisg said:
I'm surprised how rarely I find a seized bolt, or snap one off.... From memory the only problems have been the alternator tensioner - seized solid & needs lots of heat, and one caliper bleed screw.
I think it compares very well with other much more modern cars (apparently the front damper change in my E91 was a pain - everything was seized..I didn't do that one myself [
]). 
Mikebarry202
New member
Today whilst intending to complete a simple task of renewing brake flexi hoses to SS braided ones I've encountered the joys of snapping off the hose connection in the caliper!! And then with a bit of heat (clearly not enough) I've gone and snapped an eezy out in it! Luckily I have oxy acetylene at work so will be able to get proper heat in, and should be able to centre drill, drill and use a better (bigger) eexzy out, or even spark erode it. Here's hoping...
PSH
PCGB Member
I can't say that any one job stands out as being overly difficult but what I can say is that many jobs are very time consuming, clutch, sump gasket, brake/fuel line replacement etc etc. However the car (951) is so well built that at times it's just a pure pleasure to work on such a gem. I have one job that I haven't got around too yet and that's the rear wheel bearings....should be fun....
Pete
Pete
Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members
Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions
