Wheel Nuts

[D Ward]

ORIGINAL: T911UK

The radius bottom is the same on all 3, the superior version does have a slightly longer step down before the radius starts making it a couple of mm taller than the other 2

So are you saying the genuine porsche one is the superior one out of the three types? Or are you saying the aftermark ones you sell are better, if so can you back this up with documentation, ie TUV approval, metallurgy testing etc. As you do seem to have a vested intrest not just an opinion, as you are selling these.
Sure no one needs me to spell out the implications of losing a wheel at high speed

 

[clyde]

ORIGINAL: RHT45

I've learnt something from this thread anyway.   I always thought that OEM meant that it was original equipment as from the manufacturer (i.e. the company selling the whole product, rather than the subcontractor making the component), so in every way the "real thing",made to the manufacturer's specification, with all the appropriate quality control, regardless of whether it came from the manufacturer's production facilities or a subcontractor's factory.   I now know better (assuming clyde is correct!) and will have to modify my signature on 968uk and any posting about parts I may have offered for sale (as in Genuine Porsche OEM.......).   [][][][]

That's the thing Richard, an OEM part may be the self same product you would get from Porsche but in non-Porsche packaging and for much less money but it may just be something "similar" manufactured by the same company that produces the real thing for Porsche. Unless you have confirmation from the manufacturer something to this effect you cannot be sure. Textar brake pads are a case in point. Textar have confirmed that the pads that they sell in their own box are exactly the same as those that you buy in a Porsche box for more than twice the price.

Go onto one of the parts websites and you will see that on many occasions you have a choice between a "genuine Porsche" part and an "OEM" part and sometimes an "aftermarket" part as well.

I would always go for "Genuine Porsche" over OEM in a performance critical part as I know that it will conform to the rigid specifications and have gone through a recognised quality control process demanded by Porsche.

As they say, you pays your money .....

 

[T911UK]

ORIGINAL: D Ward

ORIGINAL: T911UK

The radius bottom is the same on all 3, the superior version does have a slightly longer step down before the radius starts making it a couple of mm taller than the other 2

So are you saying the genuine porsche one is the superior one out of the three types? Or are you saying the aftermark ones you sell are better, if so can you back this up with documentation, ie TUV approval, metallurgy testing etc. As you do seem to have a vested intrest not just an opinion, as you are selling these.
Sure no one needs me to spell out the implications of losing a wheel at high speed

The aftermarket nuts are made in Italy, they are fully tested and TUV approved

The Superior nuts are from USA and Im sure you dont need to know what would happen out there is there was an issue with them. As I mentioned, we have stocked them for 15 years with zero problems, not one complaint, zilch.
I would expect that the supplier has sold well into the 100,000's by now, he has had no problems either.

So what I am saying is in appearance only, the OEM ones come 3rd, the aftermarket Italian ones come 2nd and the Superior USA ones come 1st. They are all safe & tested.

These aftermarket Italian nuts are not to be confused with the very poor items that flooded the market a few years ago, as I mentioned, they were dangerous, I think these are the nuts that people have mentioned in earlier posts looking at the dates involved

How can I have a "vested" interest in any particular nut? We sell all 3 types quite openly describing the source, unlike the traders on ebay that are selling these Italian ones as "Genuine Porsche" and other resellers who are selling them as OEM, maybe by mistake I admit. I will be quite happy to sell any nut!

If anyone is in any doubt, go to your OPC and buy the Genuine Porsche item............you do indeed pays your money....

 

[T911UK]

OEM...............very grey area really

Bosch make sparkplugs for Porsche, so Bosch are an OEM company, you can buy Bosch coil packs, Porsche dont use them, are the coil packs OEM?

Maybe the term OEF should be used on specific parts "Original Equipment Fitment"

Textar do indeed supply Porsche many different pad types, but if you buy a set of Textar boxed pads they may not be the same compound and may have a different backing plate, not on all sets but certainly on some

Buy a set of pads for some later models from Porsche now and they could well be made by an Italian company!

 

[clyde]

ORIGINAL: T911UK

OEM...............very grey area really

Bosch make sparkplugs for Porsche, so Bosch are an OEM company, you can buy Bosch coil packs, Porsche dont use them, are the coil packs OEM?

Maybe the term OEF should be used on specific parts "Original Equipment Fitment"

Textar do indeed supply Porsche many different pad types, but if you buy a set of Textar boxed pads they may not be the same compound and may have a different backing plate, not on all sets but certainly on some

Buy a set of pads for some later models from Porsche now and they could well be made by an Italian company!

OEM is pretty much black and white to me. If a spark plug is advertised as "OEM" it is quite clear that the manufacturer also supplies spark plugs to the car manufacturer in question for the specified car(s). They may well supply other parts as well but if they do not supply spark plugs but do supply, say coil packs, they cannot be described as "OEM" in relation to spark plugs.

I should perhaps have qualified that my earlier comment regarding Textar pads related to the 993 only. Textar confirmed that the specification of 993 pads packaged as "Textar" and those packaged as "Porsche" where exactly the same, including the use of the same friction material. This was a couple of years ago and they may have changed their working pratices since then, I don't know and I don't care as I use Pagid or EBC. And yes I do know that this contradicts my earlier statement that I would always go for Genuine parts [] []

To possibly put this to bed I would say that if a replacement part was TUV approved I would probably be satisfied that this was good enough to put on my car. TUV is a reasonably robust checking procedure and in Germany you cannot put anything on your car that does not have TUV approval and I do mean anything.

 

[T911UK]

Photo below of Texar 993 front pads and Porsche Genuine ones, as you can see, all numbers, compounds etc and indeed the same!

 

[fhauser]

It is all down to material specification and nut design tolerances.

 

[Mark Elder]

Are nuts tougher to remove in the cold? I hope so. Better wait for spring.[&:]

I just tried to remove some to check the contact point (as above) and really cannot move the few I tried. To such an extend that I stood on the end of my torque wrench (longest suitable bar I have) and eventually I felt one start to move....but turned out to be I was shearing my 3" socket extension[]

Now I know what you are thinking, but I was there when they were torqued up. The wheels have definitely not been touched since I watched it being done. OK I did not actually check the setting on the guy's wrench but he was not pulling that hard. I'm very confident they were not over tightened.

But it was a fairly warm September day.....

 

[clyde]

ORIGINAL: Mark Elder

Are nuts tougher to remove in the cold? I hope so.

Perhaps slightly due differing thermal movement between the alloy nuts (and perhaps wheel) and steel bolts but I wouldn't have thought enough to make removal difficult. I've certainly never noticed it in the past. Try heating them up with a hairdrier Mark.

I wouldn't advise using your torque wrench to remove nuts either. I used mine many years ago in a similar attempt to loosen a particularly troublesome nut as I didn't have a suitable breaker bar to hand and knackered the wrench. If (or perhaps I should say when) the hairdrier doesn't work get a decent half inch drive breaker bar onto them. If that doesn't move them there's something far wrong and a trip back to the last person to tighten them is in order.

I've noticed in the past that sometimes a mechanic is willing to use a lot more force than I would ever have thought reasonable or safe to remove nuts and the like. And of course, if something does break it's his fault []