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3" Downpipe has arrived - warning Shiny!!
- Thread starter GPF
- Start date
ORIGINAL: TTM
Nice work!
Would wrapping the cross pipe increase the risk of its inner wall collapsing?
I'm always wondering how efficient these wraps actually are.
Don't tell me the crossover is double skinned!!??!? (or I'll have to take it off and gut it! [
No, I don't know how effective the wraps actually are either - but if I didn't do it while I could I'd always wonder if I should have done you know?
ORIGINAL: Diver944
Are you sure that blue tape on the turbo is heat resistant enough []
[
Apparently the blue tape will be fine as long as I don't start the engine.....
The turbo and crossover are actually back on now following a few more tweaks. Hopefully everything else will go back on easier than those did!!
TTM
Well-known member
ORIGINAL: GPF
No, I don't know how effective the wraps actually are either - but if I didn't do it while I could I'd always wonder if I should have done you know?
Oh yes I know that all too well. My wallet does too.
Yes, sadly the cross pipe is double-skinned. When the inner skin collapses it will have shape a bit like an "8" - Now that I think about it I should have dropped some object in it to see how far it went to make sure it hadn't collapsed.
When it's collapsed the loss of power is very significant and if your engine was working fine before then your cross pipe should be fine, but maybe you should still try this test for the sake of it.
ORIGINAL: TTM
ORIGINAL: GPF
No, I don't know how effective the wraps actually are either - but if I didn't do it while I could I'd always wonder if I should have done you know?
Oh yes I know that all too well. My wallet does too.
Yes, sadly the cross pipe is double-skinned. When the inner skin collapses it will have shape a bit like an "8" - Now that I think about it I should have dropped some object in it to see how far it went to make sure it hadn't collapsed.
When it's collapsed the loss of power is very significant and if your engine was working fine before then your cross pipe should be fine, but maybe you should still try this test for the sake of it.
Bu__er.
Well it's on the car now and it's not coming back off!!
I'll measure the back pressure when it's all finished and see what the butt dyno says....
ORIGINAL: TTM
On the point of bigger exhausts, is it worthwhile fitting anything bigger than 3" on a turbo?
Difficult question for sure, as calculating the right size will depend on turbine flow, engine size (etc)...Thoughts?
Missed that.
Personally, I can't really see it - but then I'm no expert!
I know Lindsey Racing, and probably others, will sell you up to a full 5" exhaust and claim it's better but I would prefer to believe specialists like Hayward & Scott who seem to provide a well made, well thought out design rather than say bigger is always better - but then I suppose you always like to think that you bought the right thing....[8|]
I know there is a school of thought that says the turbo itself produces all the back pressure an engine needs and that the best exhaust after the turbo would be no exhaust at all. I presume this is where the simplistic "progressively bigger to minimise (additional) back pressure" concept comes from - but I wonder if that is just a low tech alternative to designing the exhaust to flow properly in the first place?
I do know that getting the 3" H&S exhaust in and up to the 3" downpipe is tight enough! [
But maybe you can design an exhaust which at peak engine power output creates some dynamic effects which give better conditions at the turbine outlet at that mass flow rate than would be achieved by dumping straight to atmosphere. Maybe this is why H&S recommend a 3" front and 2.5" rear at <400hp. Although I suspect shape has as much to do with it as size. I would like to see a nice tapered down pipe from the size of the turbine outlet to full 3". This should help stop turbulence at the turbine outlet and help clear the gasses away.
TTM
Well-known member
ORIGINAL: GPF
I do know that getting the 3" H&S exhaust in and up to the 3" downpipe is tight enough!
...not to mention the amount of ground clearance lost with the installation of a bigger exhaust [8|]
I also think that most of the backpressure is created by the turbine and that installing a bigger exhaust might not help much if any when using a "small" turbine. Did you take your car out since the turbo & exhaust swap? How does it spool?
Do you mind me asking the diameter of the turbine outlet? Would like to put it in perspective with mine.
Over the last months I have been pondering about the need to install a larger exhaust as the turbo performs really well in any condition (spool, mid and uprange) and the turbine is rather smaller than big - I might see a little gain with a bigger exhaust but I just might, and I'm not sure it would help reduce backpressure to a significant margin.
Edited : just read your post in the other thread, thanks for the update.
ORIGINAL: TTM
I also think that most of the backpressure is created by the turbine and that installing a bigger exhaust might not help much if any when using a "small" turbine. Did you take your car out since the turbo & exhaust swap? How does it spool?
Do you mind me asking the diameter of the turbine outlet? Would like to put it in perspective with mine.
Hi Thom,
By "turbine outlet" do you mean the diameter of the hole in the outlet flange? If so, I believe it is the same as on a standard #8 hotside - about 2.25"?
Spool up is as good as the previous SFR turbo, but with stronger top end - although I've not really had much chance to play with it yet as I want to make sure the EBC and the fueling are under control first.
ORIGINAL: barks944
I would like to see a nice tapered down pipe from the size of the turbine outlet to full 3". This should help stop turbulence at the turbine outlet and help clear the gasses away.
I know what you are getting at here - I thought the same at first but I've changed my mind having listened to Ian at H&S.
Going from 2.25" to 3" instantly won't produce turbulence in itself (bit like the no exhaust scenario) and the exhaust velocity is so high that the flow through the short length of the downpipe will will be fine. The critical bit is that the DP is the full 3", as is the joint where it meets the main exhaust. I think if you start out with 2.25" it wont's hurt it - I just don't think it's necessary.
Also, what if you change turbo later to something with a different outlet? I know, you'd change the DP to match but.....
When you say back pressure do you mean at the engine? If so then no it probably won't reduce back pressure but *might* increase the differential pressure across the turbo meaning a better torque curve as the turbine could produce more power at any given back pressure.
ORIGINAL: GPF
ORIGINAL: barks944
I would like to see a nice tapered down pipe from the size of the turbine outlet to full 3". This should help stop turbulence at the turbine outlet and help clear the gasses away.
I know what you are getting at here - I thought the same at first but I've changed my mind having listened to Ian at H&S.
Going from 2.25" to 3" instantly won't produce turbulence in itself (bit like the no exhaust scenario) and the exhaust velocity is so high that the flow through the short length of the downpipe will will be fine. The critical bit is that the DP is the full 3", as is the joint where it meets the main exhaust. I think if you start out with 2.25" it wont's hurt it - I just don't think it's necessary.
Also, what if you change turbo later to something with a different outlet? I know, you'd change the DP to match but.....
I see what your saying, its probably a mute argument anyhow as a downpipe like that would probably be a nightmare to make for the 951!
sawood12
New member

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