924srr27L Lightweight Doors / Suspension / Bump steer etc..

[blade7]

Take a joke.

Now look what you've done...

 

[924Srr27l]

5.3 Litre V8 340bhp

R

 

[924Srr27l]

I've driven an awful lot of powerful cars both modified and standard and I quite like Turbocharged engines.

As it is you prefer a NA engine then fair enough, I can't help but wonder what you could achieve with an engine transplant though?

There's an almost endless supply of turbo v N/A comparison on the web, here's one:

Forget the price, if both were the same value and one car was to be given to you,

would it be the Turbo or n/a ?

http://www.caranddriver.com/comparisons/2016-mclaren-570s-vs-2016-porsche-911-gt3-rs-comparison-test

The n/a is less dramatic but faster on the track and it's a Porsche!

The Turbo Macca has higher power and Torque figures, is lighter and has a higher top speed on the track test but the N/A Porsche has a quicker laptime.

Car & driver The McLaren is theatrical and dramatic, while the Porsche just gets the business done. In the pursuit of more power, turbos are a Faustian bargain that trades away some of the soul. Plainer, more anodyne music is heard in the McLaren’s cockpit, for example, and the throttle response will never be perfect. It is very good, a popgun with a deliciously elongated explosion, but it can’t match the Porsche for direct response. The 570S felt quicker off the corners at Button­willow, but when we looked at the GPS data, the Porsche actually built speed sooner.

R

 

[Eldavo]

Do you just keep coming back to post and repost as you can't stand the idea that someone on the internet disagrees with you?

Let it lie. As I said, I'm expressing a preference, I don't need you shouting me down that I'm wrong and that you can't possibly put it in a way that my little stupid brain can understand.

 

[924Srr27l]

Do you just keep coming back to post and repost as you can't stand the idea that someone on the internet disagrees with you?

Let it lie. As I said, I'm expressing a preference, I don't need you shouting me down that I'm wrong and that you can't possibly put it in a way that my little stupid brain can understand.

There's no CAPITAL letters or Shouty here calm down..

If you put a (LOL) or (Joke) after your comments i'll know in the future.[]

R

 

[924Srr27l]

Modified Gearshaft ready to fit this weekend, the Ball is 2" further to the right and 2" further back

from the original, which was too much of a stretch to reach out to change gear quickly.

At the same time, I will also try the Only944 Rear Short shift Gear linkage.

Hopefully the two combined will not only re-position the stick in an easier place to get to,

but also the shift action between gates will be less and again quicker to go in ....

R

 

[John Sims]

Modified Gearshaft ready to fit this weekend, the Ball is 2" further to the right and 2" further back

from the original, ....

I'm not convinced myself Rodge as it would seem you have introduced a degree of twisting and leverage which may actually cause the lever to baulk. Either way it must put more strain on the linkage.

Also, why have you left the rubber dampers on? It's a long time since I've had my knob out (if you will excuse the expression) but, from what I remember, the rubber bit goes inside the original knob and is thus serving no purpose on your assembly.

 

[blade7]

I fitted the only944 linkage on top of the gearbox with it in situ, what a PITA that was.

 

[924Srr27l]

I fitted the only944 linkage on top of the gearbox with it in situ, what a PITA that was.

Does the back box have to be removed ? only944 sell a short 11mm cut off spanner which tells me access is poor!

I've got the early 2 gearbox mounts, maybe one of them will need to be removed...

Did you do it on a ramp, or the driveway laying on your back etc.. ?

R

 

[924Srr27l]

Modified Gearshaft ready to fit this weekend, the Ball is 2" further to the right and 2" further back

from the original, ....

I'm not convinced myself Rodge as it would seem you have introduced a degree of twisting and leverage which may actually cause the lever to baulk. Either way it must put more strain on the linkage.

Also, why have you left the rubber dampers on? It's a long time since I've had my knob out (if you will excuse the expression) but, from what I remember, the rubber bit goes inside the original knob and is thus serving no purpose on your assembly.

It looks worst in the photo than in the flesh, it's also much stronger than it looks and stiff. There's not much scope to any design

to produce the same effect, (2" back and 2" to the right).

It might not work, we''ll see tomorrow

The 2 rubbers are for the original knob yes, but they were left on when the assembly went to the fab shop and were put back after they had

done the welding. So I'm not fussed for now how they look, this is a prototype bought from a breaker to replace My original on the car to evaluate

if such a modification works or not.

R

 

[Eldavo]

I fitted the only944 linkage on top of the gearbox with it in situ, what a PITA that was.

As did I, it wasn't that bad with the right tools - the cut down spanner is a MUST.

The hardest part was getting the pin back into the ball joint to hold it in place once everything was assembled. I spent ages blindly poking about (no sniggering at the back) and couldn't do it. So my top tip (see, I can be helpful) is to plodge a blob of assembly grease on the pin to hold it just in the hole as you put the ball joint on - then you can just push it into position in seconds when done.

Also, use plenty of threadlock on the pointy grub screw that goes into the divot on the shaft - mine came loose and was "interesting" to say the least.

Seeing as im being nice, I won't mention the gearstick. (I also find it difficult to type whilst laughing).

 

[John Sims]

I fitted the only944 linkage on top of the gearbox with it in situ, what a PITA that was.

As did I, it wasn't that bad with the right tools - the cut down spanner is a MUST.

The hardest part was getting the pin back into the ball joint to hold it in place once everything was assembled. I spent ages blindly poking about (no sniggering at the back) and couldn't do it. So my top tip (see, I can be helpful) is to plodge a blob of assembly grease on the pin to hold it just in the hole as you put the ball joint on - then you can just push it into position in seconds when done.

Also, use plenty of threadlock on the pointy grub screw that goes into the divot on the shaft - mine came loose and was "interesting" to say the least.

Seeing as im being nice, I won't mention the gearstick. (I also find it difficult to type whilst laughing).

Make sure the linkage is done up well. Mine came undone :-(

 

[924Srr27l]

I fitted the only944 linkage on top of the gearbox with it in situ, what a PITA that was.

As did I, it wasn't that bad with the right tools - the cut down spanner is a MUST.

The hardest part was getting the pin back into the ball joint to hold it in place once everything was assembled. I spent ages blindly poking about (no sniggering at the back) and couldn't do it. So my top tip (see, I can be helpful) is to plodge a blob of assembly grease on the pin to hold it just in the hole as you put the ball joint on - then you can just push it into position in seconds when done.

Also, use plenty of threadlock on the pointy grub screw that goes into the divot on the shaft - mine came loose and was "interesting" to say the least.

Seeing as im being nice, I won't mention the gearstick. (I also find it difficult to type whilst laughing).

Well I was preparing myself for some contortion PITA job !

Either the 924S is different and / or my smaller exhaust box allows more access ? but I'm slightly confused only

I only used 13mm and 17mm spanners and no 11mm or did I come across any pin and ball joint ? the new linkage slips

on to both shafts and bolts up simples..

or did I need to remove one of the gearbox mounts as per only944's instructions....

13mm bolt for the Rod Shaft, 13mm for the Gearbox shaft and a 17mm / 13mm combo for the top support Rod

Which sheared off in the gearbox!

This was the only snag which took a bit of faffing to Relocate this on a bracket and from the other side..

I'd tried the "Dog Leg" Gear stick action before fitting the Short shifter which was a huge improvement

which I was prepared for it to be a dogs dinner but it's not, the Round knob and thin shaft fits in the

hand far better than the original baulky stem / knob and the new position closer to the wheel and 2"

towards the driver is an exceptional improvement!

Sure it's looks bizarre, but it's totally functional for quicker / easier shifting..

Now I need to road test both mods together........

R

 

[Ex Skyline]

The "Aus Racer Geezer" knows a hell of a lot about these cars and you would do well to look at the evolution of his car. I don't recall him drilling holes in the spokes of his wheels - probably because he either knows what he's doing or surrounds himself with others that do.

Despite the fact we cannot see eye to eye on several things I dont want to think of anyone putting themselves at wholly unnecessary risk just to prove their point on the internet!!!

Chill with your Health & Safety concerns, and thanks but no thanks on suggesting I look at other people and sources. I'm more than happy with the group

of Mechanical Race Engineers & Expertise I currently have at my disposal, who also as you put it "Know a Hell of a lot about these car's" and my holy Wheels are doing fine really...They may be coming off at some point for some Jap Rays 7x16 Ce28N Forged Rims...just over 6kg each!



R

Jesus! They'll be worth more than the car!![8|]

 

[Ex Skyline]

There are 'Guide dogs for the Blind' and Hearing dogs for the Deaf' I think that we now need 'Thinking dogs for the Daft'.

!! Geoff, you are one funny guy!! Hysterical!! PMSL!!

 

[blade7]

There are 'Guide dogs for the Blind' and Hearing dogs for the Deaf' I think that we now need 'Thinking dogs for the Daft'.

!! Geoff, you are one funny guy!! Hysterical!! PMSL!!

A Goldfish would probably be an upgrade...

 

[924Srr27l]

Jap Rays 7x16 Ce28N Forged Rims...just over 6kg each!



R

Jesus! They'll be worth more than the car!![8|]

PCGB Valuation and the agreed value both reside at 35K, if I get a set of rays and bespoke 5x100 hubs they will be added on as well as a potential 3K

on Suspension and 4K on a Sequential box...

If Carlsberg did 924's.........

R

(edited by Admin)

 

[944 man]

Rays can be bought from Kevin Eacock. I would love to observe that meeting of minds...

 

[924Srr27l]

Rays can be bought from Kevin Eacock. I would love to observe that meeting of minds...

Boxed ticked: I met Kev and bought a Wavetrac LSD from EMC a few years back..

The 7x16 CE28N Rays are approx 1.5kg lighter than my current modified cups's which would be beneficial but

I've just saved over 1kg each corner by taking off the R888's & NS2R's Tyres and refitting Michelin PS3's which is a lot cheaper

than a set of Ray's @ approx £1750 a set + the expense of bespoke hubs...

More Unsprung weight can be shed with lighter strut housings (Aluminium)

Intrax (Holland - Ex Ohlins) have a great feature called ARC which looks a great feature for road use.

They've developed a unique way to drastically reduce unwanted roll (lateral and longitudinal). Your car can have the comfort and all the other benefits of driving with “soft” springs like extra grip and traction, until you take a corner or need to brake then ARC® will control ride height with the feel of a sport/race/rally setup. While driving over a curb (Racing), through a pott hole or over jumps the suspension will absorb them like driving with soft springs. So you can have the benefits of a soft spring set up without the disadvantages of too much body roll and/or collapsing suspension in pott holes, jumps, cambers & curbs.

R

 

[Ex Skyline]

I must say, that is one lovely set of wheels Roger! [8D]