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944 S2 - track use
- Thread starter Globe_911
- Start date
I will refer my learned friend back to my post on the first page of this thread.ORIGINAL: sailor
Amongst all this interesting go-faster info I have seen no mention of the most obvious instant mod for a track newbie.
Get yourself booked with an instructor.
But it is certainly a point worth repeating.
Oli.
sawood12
New member
ORIGINAL: Tam Lin
Hi Scott
The front light raising mechanism deletion saves about 8 Kg. An empty washer bottle helps, too.
Do you find you can a few low-speed clunks from the KW v3, or is it just me? The a-arms are fine, the arb is fine, the top-mounts are fine, and yet bad (all) road surfaces produce clunks at low speed on my 924s. V.Annoying
I do get a bit of a clunking noise when I am manouvering in a car park and steering from lock to lock at low speed/virtually stationary also I get the odd 'boinging' noise. I think it might be coming from my lower wishbone ball joint and the vibration sent up through the strut causing the noise. I have not noticed any noises at normal road speeds (or faster) though.
I've got the Rennbay geometry correcting kit fitted that has an extended pin that corrects the angle of the wishbone when the car is lowered and I must say i'm not that impressed with it. I got under the car last week while it was on the ramp for its MOT (which if flew through) and I must say the extended pin looks really flimsy. The guys in the states rave on about this kit and as far as i'm aware there are no horror stories about failures from them, but from an engineering point of view it just doesn't look strong enough. It has dented my confidence a bit.
Neil Haughey
New member
sawood12
New member
George Elliott
New member
The old bearings had 120k miles on 'em and although not "slack or Loose" they were worn and the geometry effect of new bearings was amazing when corrected. The car steers perfectly again.
Best £40 ever spent on her.
Don't like the sound of the Lower links or the clunky KW. The "booiiiinnnng" Scott describes sounds like a coil-spring turning on the perch.
George
944T
Globe_911
New member
I'm hanging onto all the carpets for now as it'll be going back on the road eventually if all goes to plan.
is it worth taking all theinterior out? i.e the lower parts of the rear seats, all the carpet that covers the rear wheel arches, what about the centre storage space and all the trim around there and the door upholstery? all worth taking out?
cheers
Neil Haughey
New member
ISTR most of that stuff is pretty light. I weighed my rear seat base and it came in at something like 1kg. I did save 12kg though by stripping out everything to do with the stereo system I had (head unit, 6 disk changer, front & rear speakers, cables probably some other cables that don't do anything).ORIGINAL: Globe_911
is it worth taking all theinterior out? i.e the lower parts of the rear seats, all the carpet that covers the rear wheel arches, what about the centre storage space and all the trim around there and the door upholstery? all worth taking out?
cheers
For really super serious weight savings one needs to strip and dip the body shell to get it back to metal, then spray a single thin undercoat and a single top coat. My brother used to work in a bodyshop and looking at the amount in litres of paint and underseal used it can be as much again as the weight of the body shell in some cases, ISTR he used 30 litres on his mini not including waxoyl or underseal!
Which was how German Racing Silver came about, wasn't? 1960-something Le Mans 24hours, the German Mercedes Gullwing cars were found to be 1kg over the maximum allowed weight, and there was nothing left to strip out of the cars. Some bright spark said "why not remove the paint", as they were finished in a thick layer of heavy black paint.ORIGINAL: Neil Haughey
For really super serious weight savings one needs to strip and dip the body shell to get it back to metal, then spray a single thin undercoat and a single top coat.
So they did just that - stripped it back to bare metal, and painted them in a thin layer of aluminium paint. And - hey presto - the weight was saved and the cars were allowed to run. (And cleaned up rather comprehensively, I seem to remember!)
Oli.
Globe_911
New member
re: seats we've decided on a pair of cobra monaco's as they're relatively cheap and seemed to do the job nicely in our old lotus but wondering how they attach to the floor? as the passenger side will want to be fixed in place and the drivers side adjustable for different drivers? is it best to take it somewhere to have these fitted when the rollcage is put in?
cheers
lali
New member
ORIGINAL: Globe_911
still struggling to find a rollcage (best price so far is £995+vat inc fitting) but hopefully get there eventually.
re: seats we've decided on a pair of cobra monaco's as they're relatively cheap and seemed to do the job nicely in our old lotus but wondering how they attach to the floor? as the passenger side will want to be fixed in place and the drivers side adjustable for different drivers? is it best to take it somewhere to have these fitted when the rollcage is put in?
cheers
The passenger side should be Ok. you may need to turn the side mounts back to front but they should fit straight(ish) into the holes left by taking the sliders out.
Fitting cobra seats to Porsche sliders can be tricky, I think the GT version (fat arsed model) might be an easier fit or you may have to do a little bending of the sidemounts or add some spacers. Just make sure that you can get in the car with your helmet on once they are in place.
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
We discussed seat sliders a little while back, so this thread might be useful:
http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=314544
Best regards,
Peter
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
I'll get my coat...
Globe_911
New member
also just ordered a set of braided brake lines and fluid from k300, even get 10% off! great stuff []
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