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944 S2 - track use

interior

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and the front! no rust on it anywhere, or none that I've found so far anyway! seems pretty good for £3700 with a fsh! [:)]

72FFB38353EC44AA824A45596010AA3E.jpg
 
Looks like you're getting there [:)]

Seeing the shot through the hatchback reminded me that SimonP is after a set of black carpets if you wanted to move yours on after you've stripped them
 
Amongst all this interesting go-faster info I have seen no mention of the most obvious instant mod for a track newbie.
Get yourself booked with an instructor.

JohnC
993turbo
 
ORIGINAL: sailor

Amongst all this interesting go-faster info I have seen no mention of the most obvious instant mod for a track newbie.
Get yourself booked with an instructor.
I will refer my learned friend back to my post on the first page of this thread.

But it is certainly a point worth repeating.


Oli.
 
ORIGINAL: Tam Lin

Hi Scott
The front light raising mechanism deletion saves about 8 Kg. An empty washer bottle helps, too.

Do you find you can a few low-speed clunks from the KW v3, or is it just me? The a-arms are fine, the arb is fine, the top-mounts are fine, and yet bad (all) road surfaces produce clunks at low speed on my 924s. V.Annoying

I do get a bit of a clunking noise when I am manouvering in a car park and steering from lock to lock at low speed/virtually stationary also I get the odd 'boinging' noise. I think it might be coming from my lower wishbone ball joint and the vibration sent up through the strut causing the noise. I have not noticed any noises at normal road speeds (or faster) though.

I've got the Rennbay geometry correcting kit fitted that has an extended pin that corrects the angle of the wishbone when the car is lowered and I must say i'm not that impressed with it. I got under the car last week while it was on the ramp for its MOT (which if flew through) and I must say the extended pin looks really flimsy. The guys in the states rave on about this kit and as far as i'm aware there are no horror stories about failures from them, but from an engineering point of view it just doesn't look strong enough. It has dented my confidence a bit.
 
Wheel bearings. Mine does it on Koni's and KLA top mounts with strut brace. I took the car into the garage and they couldn't find anything loose. Basically I (perhaps you) can feel a tiny knock caused by a tiny amount of play in the bearing when cold. This dissapears once the car has been taken up to speed and a bit of heat is put into the bearings. Like my independant said if the bearing was done up any tighter it would be too tight and overheat.
 
Not noticed any play in the system and my car only passed it's MOT last week so i've not suspected wheel bearings as yet. I sort of expected a bit of noise from the setup as i've heard that aftermarket systems can be a bit noisy, especially at the rear (though having said that i've not noticed any noise from the rear). I know Leda can be a bit noisy also.
 
Not sure about the wheel bearing / clunking, but I changed the wheel bearings on my car and wow what a difference.
The old bearings had 120k miles on 'em and although not "slack or Loose" they were worn and the geometry effect of new bearings was amazing when corrected. The car steers perfectly again.
Best £40 ever spent on her.
Don't like the sound of the Lower links or the clunky KW. The "booiiiinnnng" Scott describes sounds like a coil-spring turning on the perch.

George

944T
 
cheers i completely missed the intructor post! wheres the best place to look for things like that?

I'm hanging onto all the carpets for now as it'll be going back on the road eventually if all goes to plan.

is it worth taking all theinterior out? i.e the lower parts of the rear seats, all the carpet that covers the rear wheel arches, what about the centre storage space and all the trim around there and the door upholstery? all worth taking out?

cheers
 

ORIGINAL: Globe_911

is it worth taking all theinterior out? i.e the lower parts of the rear seats, all the carpet that covers the rear wheel arches, what about the centre storage space and all the trim around there and the door upholstery? all worth taking out?

cheers
ISTR most of that stuff is pretty light. I weighed my rear seat base and it came in at something like 1kg. I did save 12kg though by stripping out everything to do with the stereo system I had (head unit, 6 disk changer, front & rear speakers, cables probably some other cables that don't do anything).

For really super serious weight savings one needs to strip and dip the body shell to get it back to metal, then spray a single thin undercoat and a single top coat. My brother used to work in a bodyshop and looking at the amount in litres of paint and underseal used it can be as much again as the weight of the body shell in some cases, ISTR he used 30 litres on his mini not including waxoyl or underseal!
 
ORIGINAL: Neil Haughey
For really super serious weight savings one needs to strip and dip the body shell to get it back to metal, then spray a single thin undercoat and a single top coat.
Which was how German Racing Silver came about, wasn't? 1960-something Le Mans 24hours, the German Mercedes Gullwing cars were found to be 1kg over the maximum allowed weight, and there was nothing left to strip out of the cars. Some bright spark said "why not remove the paint", as they were finished in a thick layer of heavy black paint.

So they did just that - stripped it back to bare metal, and painted them in a thin layer of aluminium paint. And - hey presto - the weight was saved and the cars were allowed to run. (And cleaned up rather comprehensively, I seem to remember!)


Oli.
 
still struggling to find a rollcage (best price so far is £995+vat inc fitting) but hopefully get there eventually.

re: seats we've decided on a pair of cobra monaco's as they're relatively cheap and seemed to do the job nicely in our old lotus but wondering how they attach to the floor? as the passenger side will want to be fixed in place and the drivers side adjustable for different drivers? is it best to take it somewhere to have these fitted when the rollcage is put in?

cheers
 
ORIGINAL: Globe_911

still struggling to find a rollcage (best price so far is £995+vat inc fitting) but hopefully get there eventually.

re: seats we've decided on a pair of cobra monaco's as they're relatively cheap and seemed to do the job nicely in our old lotus but wondering how they attach to the floor? as the passenger side will want to be fixed in place and the drivers side adjustable for different drivers? is it best to take it somewhere to have these fitted when the rollcage is put in?

cheers

The passenger side should be Ok. you may need to turn the side mounts back to front but they should fit straight(ish) into the holes left by taking the sliders out.

Fitting cobra seats to Porsche sliders can be tricky, I think the GT version (fat arsed model) might be an easier fit or you may have to do a little bending of the sidemounts or add some spacers. Just make sure that you can get in the car with your helmet on once they are in place.
 
the monacos are base mounted only! the next seat 'up' is a side mount but the price of one is over the price of 2 monacos!
I'll have a look through that thread [:)]

getting some braided lines and nice fresh fluid from k300 after emailing stuart [:D]
 
orderd a pair of cobra monacos for £195 with free postage! which seems pretty good as they're fia approved and have 5/6 point harness facility! they fit onto the original seat bases with a bit of modification so shouldn't be too difficult.....

also just ordered a set of braided brake lines and fluid from k300, even get 10% off! great stuff [:D]
 
That's a pretty good price and checking some websites it turns out they are 9 kilo seats. So compared with the 24 kilo electric adjustables already in the car you have already saved a total of 30 kilos just by changing two seats - result [:)]
 

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