944 Turbo S Engine Rebuild Thread
- Thread starter Eldavo
- Start date
PSH
PCGB Member
blade7 said:
My K&N is about that size although I chose one with a slight taper. It sits behind the front apron just above the brake air ducts...in fact, its partially cut into the ducts.. you can see it clearly in my thread, page 30 last picture as the wing and apron have been removed.. it clearly needs cleaning going by the fact that the induction has sucked it in a little. I'll probably replace it for a new one once the car is back.
Good to see it's going well.
The VEMS software looks suspiciously like Tunerstudio.
As far as airfilters go, mine lives in front of the expansion tank. I did have it well insulated, with an enclosure and cold air feed. I removed the enclosure and there's no difference in intake temperature, except at idle in traffic. Which doesn't really matter
The VEMS software looks suspiciously like Tunerstudio.
As far as airfilters go, mine lives in front of the expansion tank. I did have it well insulated, with an enclosure and cold air feed. I removed the enclosure and there's no difference in intake temperature, except at idle in traffic. Which doesn't really matter
blade7
Well-known member
PSH said:
That's what my K&N looks like Pete, though mines new. I've seen cars with the filter mounted there, and they do seem to collect some road muck. I'll try it behind the headlamp with some ali sheet to shield it from the water tank, and some ducting from the bumper, and see how warm it gets. Some people reckoned that half of the gains from MAF kits, came from dumping the standard air filter box.
This update is nothing more than a love letter to Thom . . . .
Since fitting the 3.0 16v engine it’s always been pretty gutless low down the rev range - just a characteristic of it or so I thought. At Croft circuit, too much early application of 2nd gear throttle would see me leaving the hairpin sideways with my 2.5 engine but now I was so laggy I wasn’t up to speed until halfway down the pit straight. Fitting the new turbo and dyno run only compounded that - the torque was coming in really late and with nothing much happening below 5k rpm and Thom questioned the Cam timing.
Naively (and ignorance was bliss for a while) I knew nothing about setting up 16v cams - I now consider myself a bit of an expert (although really wish I wasn’t). I spoke to Simon whom I got the engine from and he told me that the cams were installed but not timed up so armed with the Xmas break, Irina’s video and the factory manual I got cracking.
I set the 3mm preload no bother, made the correct adjustments to the feather groove and then measured a 0.75mm lift - and then repeated this about 5 times as every single time I was about 30 degrees beyond TDC. Lots of head scratching, speaking to Mike and Colin and eventually worked out (easy when you know now) that the inlet cam had been installed one tooth out on the cam chain.
So I’ve now rectified that (literally at 11pm last night) and now need to build it all back up enough to check the timing at 0.75mm lift and hopefully all will be well. Looks like another trip to the dyno will be in order when I get it back on the road then . . . I guess someone needs to make up for the reluctance of others to go to one
Since fitting the 3.0 16v engine it’s always been pretty gutless low down the rev range - just a characteristic of it or so I thought. At Croft circuit, too much early application of 2nd gear throttle would see me leaving the hairpin sideways with my 2.5 engine but now I was so laggy I wasn’t up to speed until halfway down the pit straight. Fitting the new turbo and dyno run only compounded that - the torque was coming in really late and with nothing much happening below 5k rpm and Thom questioned the Cam timing.
Naively (and ignorance was bliss for a while) I knew nothing about setting up 16v cams - I now consider myself a bit of an expert (although really wish I wasn’t). I spoke to Simon whom I got the engine from and he told me that the cams were installed but not timed up so armed with the Xmas break, Irina’s video and the factory manual I got cracking.
I set the 3mm preload no bother, made the correct adjustments to the feather groove and then measured a 0.75mm lift - and then repeated this about 5 times as every single time I was about 30 degrees beyond TDC. Lots of head scratching, speaking to Mike and Colin and eventually worked out (easy when you know now) that the inlet cam had been installed one tooth out on the cam chain.
So I’ve now rectified that (literally at 11pm last night) and now need to build it all back up enough to check the timing at 0.75mm lift and hopefully all will be well. Looks like another trip to the dyno will be in order when I get it back on the road then . . . I guess someone needs to make up for the reluctance of others to go to one
I seem to have re posted your camshaft message. Sorry...new Forum set up?
Anyway thanks for that, it's fascinating and brave stuff. I just love it...I used to be a reasonable tinkerer but can't trust myself with it these days!
edit: - no problems, deleted it for you. Moderator powers ‘an all that
Anyway thanks for that, it's fascinating and brave stuff. I just love it...I used to be a reasonable tinkerer but can't trust myself with it these days!
edit: - no problems, deleted it for you. Moderator powers ‘an all that
Last edited by a moderator:
PSH
PCGB Member
. . I guess someone needs to make up for the reluctance of others to go to one
you keep going mate...good luck in your endeavours...meanwhile, I'll stick to my 2.5 which is still just as lively as Porsche intended..
Nah, not that hard really - just buy a £45 dti gauge setup from Amazon set it to 3mm preload on inlet cam 1 and then turn the engine over until it reads 2.25mm, loosen off the cam gear bolts and turn it to the TDC marks then bolt it all back up. I had to remove the chain tensioner and inlet cam and turn it round a tooth before refitting it too, again - reasonably straightforward.
Using an adjustable cam wheel to dial in 4 degrees of advance or retarded timing might move the power band around a bit - when its 30 degrees retarded as mine was though it will have a big impact on overall power. Explains why it never made the numbers it should have done.
It’s all back together now, timed up and ready to be buttoned back up . Next job is to drop the coolant and remove the fans as one is noisy and blows the odd fuse so I’ll likely put some modern brushless ones in there instead. I had found a website that I thought specialised in selling just fans, indeed they made out it was the only thing they sold, and I got a bit distracted.
Here’s a comparison of the M030 brakes vs the Big Reds:
Here’s a comparison of the M030 brakes vs the Big Reds:
No, went with what I did as it’s a straight bolt-on fitment.
TTM
Well-known member
Happy new year...
Well, after running the car with such a comically poor adjustment of the cam timing until now it sounds to me like you are about to discover what a 3l 16v engine is really like. Mind the knock and exhaust temperatures as the car propels you in hyperspace and find out that the medium blacks are as effective as the brakes of an old and rusty Raleigh just taken out of a barn after 50 years... You will probably find out that the factory cam timing is still not optimum with your lower compression ratio, but this can be easily adjusted until finding the sweet spot for your engine... Enjoy - that's an exciting way to start the new year!
Well, after running the car with such a comically poor adjustment of the cam timing until now it sounds to me like you are about to discover what a 3l 16v engine is really like. Mind the knock and exhaust temperatures as the car propels you in hyperspace and find out that the medium blacks are as effective as the brakes of an old and rusty Raleigh just taken out of a barn after 50 years... You will probably find out that the factory cam timing is still not optimum with your lower compression ratio, but this can be easily adjusted until finding the sweet spot for your engine... Enjoy - that's an exciting way to start the new year!
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Centring rings are only required if fitting Big Reds to non-M030 hubs. Going from M030 Medium Blacks to Big Reds doesn’t need them.
Happy new year...
Well, after running the car with such a comically poor adjustment of the cam timing until now it sounds to me like you are about to discover what a 3l 16v engine is really like. Mind the knock and exhaust temperatures as the car propels you in hyperspace and find out that the medium blacks are as effective as the brakes of an old and rusty Raleigh just taken out of a barn after 50 years... You will probably find out that the factory cam timing is still not optimum with your lower compression ratio, but this can be easily adjusted until finding the sweet spot for your engine... Enjoy - that's an exciting way to start the new year!
Indeed - many (many) thanks for the prompt to investigate it as I would never have known otherwise. The new brakes will be put to the test for sure - mind you after having them fully refurbed, the medium blacks were very effective too.
I’m going to reduce the ignition advance across the second half of the rev range and drop the boost before my first trip out - which will be to get it remapped. Can’t wait!
blade7
Well-known member
Not sure if we're talking about the same thing here. The 996tt front discs have a larger centre bore than 944 discs. There are rings to fill this gap. Though some don't bother with them.
They’re not 996TT front discs - that’s why 
They’re 964 Turbo ones: https://www.design911.co.uk/p/porsc...ont-96535104500-96535104600/?source=doofinder
They’re 964 Turbo ones: https://www.design911.co.uk/p/porsc...ont-96535104500-96535104600/?source=doofinder
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