Another 944 Turbo Engine Rebuild Thread

[dlknight]

Awesome super shiny stuff! Almost getting to the tickly bit now.......

Still a way to go, a little bit of surface rust to treat on the front end and some paint on the back end before fitting the fuel tank, gear box, and exhaust. Need to tidy up the garage too before I can roll the car back in to refit the engine

 

[944Turbo]

Looking good, Exciting!

 

[dlknight]

Bit more progress...

Ordered a couple of bits to mock up the steam vent hose, some black nylon braided hose (6AN, Dash 6) with a 45 degree swivel fitting for the cylinder head end. Will probably get an 6AN t piece with a couple of barb / slip-on hose fittings and either another 45 degree swivel fitting or a 90 degree to attach to the tee. Was surprised how easy the fittings are to assemble!



Timing belt and some other bits arrived from Porsche, timing belt is Gates branded and proudly manufactured in the United Kingdom!



I've also been looking at bits to make up my own fuel lines seeing as the genuine Porsche items are hideously expensive. My hard lines are in great condition and were replaced front to back about 10 years ago, so I only need to deal with the engine bay and hard line to tank / pump hoses. I've picked up a genuine return line for the tank as that was competitively priced.

After searching around, I found that there is a company based in the UK and Germany that makes metric hose fittings that can be used with AN style hose.

ATEC Autotechnik GmbH – High Performance Fluid Transfer Systeme​

atec-autotechnik.com

https://atec-autotechnik.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/ATEC_Catalogue_Issue_6.pdf

You can also order a printed copy of the catalogue.

They have a backdrop on the web page featuring the Formula-E Porsche car, so they possibly supply Porsche with fluid fittings.

I ordered some AN hose to metric fittings from them which are superb quality (made in Germany). They appear to supply to the motor racing industry mainly but are happy to take orders over the phone with a card. Their catalogue is extensive and can be downloaded at the link above. I think these metric fittings may connect directly to the factory fuel lines (as well as fitting the damper, rail, and fuel regulator connections), need to check next time I have the bonnet / hood open.

I ordered the following so far - (series 400 for standard braided rubber hose, series 600 for PTFE hose)
1 x Series 400, 00 degree Metric Hose End, Dash 6 to M16 x 1,5 (643.012)
1 x Series 600, 00 degree Metric Hose End, Dash 6 to M16 x 1,5 (642.065) - ordered in case I end up using PTFE hose for the main engine bay lines
2 x Series 400, 90 degree Metric Block Swivel Hose End, Dash 6 to M16 x 1,5 (643.044) - these are for the fuel jumper line



Will probably order my hose from them when the time comes and some standard AN fittings if required. Feel a lot more confident about the product reliability and safety vs ordering off ebay.

Next up was to fit the timing and balance belts, spent some time checking the tension with my krickit tool and also the twist method. I was getting repeated results from the krickit and was happy that it was accurately set. I finished on around 40 lbs for the timing belt (new tension), and just under 30 lbs on the balance belt. I was able to twist the timing belt 90 degrees with fingertip force and the balance belt 180 degrees. Will be rechecking tension after the first few hundred miles anyhow.



Used all new hardware on the coolant elbow at the front of the cylinder head, and carefully studied my before photos for the hardware to be fitted at the rear heater elbow at the back of the head.





Fitted the exhaust studs with a little copper grease, and attached the heater rail.



Installed the air/oil separator, then loosely attached the turbo heatshields, intake manifold support, and intake manifold so I could get them all adjusted and tightened in the correct position.





Then I was about to fit the turbo when I realised, I need to attach the downpipe first as there is not enough clearance once installed. Waiting for the manifolds and downpipe to be cerakoted so that will have to be postponed.

 

[scam75]

Great work. It will be a real shame to use that engine, it is all far too clean!

 

[dlknight]

Great work. It will be a real shame to use that engine, it is all far too clean!

I know! it looks cleaner than the engine in the Porsche museum...

 

[dlknight]

Back once again with the renegade master!

More updates, learning from my esteemed forum friends I purchased a couple of oilite bronze bushings for my clutch fork in the correct dimensions (16x22x16 mm). I've since soaked them in a jar of used engine oil for a week and about to press them into the fork using my vice.

AMC162216 Plain Oilite Bearing Bush 16x22x16mm | eBay

JBS10 Maintenance Free Spherical Plain Bearing 10x26x14x9.5mm. GE12PW Maintenance Free Spherical Plain Bearing 12x26x16x12mm. We're Here to Help - Give Us a Ring! MPN: Does Not Apply. Loose Balls. ITEM SPECIFICS.

www.ebay.co.uk

Next job I installed the silicone pipe to the air oil separator that I purchased from Lindsey a couple of years ago. The pipe has provision for the factory pressure relief valve. I cleaned the valve with brake fluid and checked the operation by gently pushing the valve with a small screwdriver. Secured in place with an oetiker style clamp.



I collected my cerakoted exhaust manifolds from Matt at MB Engineering (Malvern), top job and I arrived just in time for an impromptu coffee morning with tea cakes (those ones with the marshmallow filling), excellent!






I then fitted the exhaust manifolds and got the rebuilt turbocharger from Turbo Dynamics out of it's box and found I had some missing seal rings for the various bits of plumbing. A few days between various activities waiting for parts and the turbocharger install was mostly completed (more on that later).



The turbocharger oil drain pipe had been sent to the platers to be cleaned and zinc plated but didn't come back in the best condition. Not entirely the platers fault as the bottom of the banjo fitting faces the road and had clearly picked up some corrosion over the last 30+ years. The plating process had blown out the corrosion leaving lots of pitting on the surface. I did have a spare oil drain pipe but this was also corroded, so I chose to try filling the pits with some JB Weld. This worked out pretty well, and after sanding the surface flat I used some silver brake caliper paint to protect it from corrosion.

 

[dlknight]

Next job was to remove the engine from the stand so I could fit the flywheel, check the timing and then fit the clutch assembly (TBC).



No pictures of the suspended engine, always a scary moment for me, especially with these cheap chinese hoists and stands!

With the engine on the ground, I was able to fit the flywheel (reusing the flywheel bolts which were in great condition, the workshop manual does not say that they should be replaced or one use) and then check the timing.







Timing is a tiny bit (I mean a really tiny amount!) out which is to be expected with the head and block skimming, I think I mentioned how much this was in degrees earlier on in this thread. Ignore the yellow line on the flywheel this was for the alignment of components when the rotating assembly was balanced, the timing mark is to the left, I will try and paint this with my paint pen before installing the cover.

Then I installed the cheap pilot bearing I scored off ebay some time ago (6202RSR).



Then back to the turbocharger, I decided to use the updated hose connector I'd ordered from Porsche, instead of the 90 degree elbow. Plenty of sellers with 90 degree silicone reducing elbows in the correct size (19 to 16mm). To make it complete like the updated hose from Porsche, just need to order some aluminium heat sleeve in the correct size.



Until next time...

 

[blade7]

Aren't a couple of needle roller bearings the uprate for the clutch fork?

 

[scam75]

Great progress, I don't recall my turbo oil return line being anything like that. Maybe the good, wet Scottish roads and climate have kept it clean!

 

[dlknight]

Aren't a couple of needle roller bearings the uprate for the clutch fork?

Nope - needle roller bearings are standard and score the pin

 

[blade7]

Nope - needle roller bearings are standard and score the pin

How many years/miles did the previous pin last for?

 

[dlknight]

Happy new year folks, I managed a little more work just before Christmas and then took a well earned break!

First off was assembling the clutch, I'd already fitted a new guide tube to the clutch housing (a new old stock VW/Audi part which was considerably cheaper than direct from Porsche) P/N 016 141 181.





I also fitted the oilite bearings to the clutch fork, more on this later...



I'd ordered a Triumph TR7 clutch alignment tool, which turned out to not be right. It had the correct number of splines, but the pilot bearing end was a smaller diameter (I fixed this by winding some tape around it until it fit tightly in the pilot bearing.



Don't forget to transfer the starter ring across from the old pressure plate to the new, used a hammer and punch to gently tap it free.



Fitting the thrust bearing was much easier than I thought, the toothed and smooth washer on the backside and the thicker locating ring and split ring on the inside. Small amount of pressure is all that was required by pressing down with both hands on the pressure plate with the split ring placed on top of the thrust bearing. It then dropped into the recess and was locked securely.





Once that was done the housing could be installed (note you should install the sensor bracket first if you haven't modded the housing, you can then gap the sensors more easily with a feeler gauge before fitting the clutch housing). I then had to fiddle for some time to get the clutch fork into position and line up the pin. The oilite bearings were very tight and I had to tap the pin into place with a small hammer. I then realised I'd forgotten to fit the sensor bracket, luckily if you loosen the clutch housing bolts you have just enough room to wiggle the sensor bracket into position.



Next up was to install a new protection plate to the clutch housing (my car has never had this plate since I've owned it. With the engine on the ground (and crossover installed) I was just able to wiggle it into place once the clutch housing had been installed. Here is a photo before the housing was installed to show how it fits.



With all that completed I ordered two new sensors, I've gone for Lucas branded ones which were just under £70 for the pair and should have the correct length cables according to the part number.

I've also started tidying up the garage ready for the car to go back into the warm and dry for the engine install.