Anti Roll Bars

[Diver944]

John, this might be of help or it might not.

I had a small clunk from the front of my S2 a few years ago. JZ machtech said it was a bit of rust on one of the springs where it sits on the strut. They cleaned it up and applyed grease. No more clunking []

 

[John Sims]

ORIGINAL: Diver944

John, this might be of help or it might not.

I had a small clunk from the front of my S2 a few years ago. JZ machtech said it was a bit of rust on one of the springs where it sits on the strut. They cleaned it up and applyed grease. No more clunking []

Top man Paul, as always []

I had pretty well convinced myself that this was the case, but now you note that you had a simillar occurance I am happy to let sleeping dogs lie. If it ain't broke don't fix it - and I haven't got another £400 to blow at the moment any way.

 

[Diver944]

.....or it could be your engine is about to drop out.

Rather than leave it, how about trying to spray some grease into the aforementioend areas rather than strip it all down. It may at least rule something out if the clunk is still there afterwards

 

[John Sims]

Rather than leave it, how about trying to spray some grease into the aforementioend areas rather than strip it all down.

Oh alright then. The front wheels have got to come off soon - when my discs finaly turn up []

 

[Diver944]

Tee hee, I just love 'encouraging' you to get you hands dirty []

Have you shimmed your wastegate yet? []

 

[Fen]

...and you'r mirror fully defrosts now does it, Mr. Smith? [8D]

 

[John Sims]

Have you shimmed your wastegate yet?

No, but Autostrassa did. It seems to be holding boost from what I can see as well []
Or at least I could see untill the boost guage died []
I've got another one now[]
But I had to pay for it as they will only refund, or repair the original after it has been checked - is it realy worth it for £35 []
I have to take the first one out anyway as I need to connect up the light[]
But I didn't want to do it yet as I haven't got time []

 

[John Sims]

Bit off thread but following the previous post:-

Replacement gauge arrives.
Swap gauge
Start engine
New gauge she no work neither - bother![]
Remove new gauge
Disconect pipe at T piece
Blow down pipe
Turn a brighter shade of puce
Pipe blocked - bother![]
Getting dark
Get torch
Phone rings
Loose torch
Get wire
Try to "rod" feed pipe
Wire she get stuck - bother![]
Pull out wire
Blow down pipe
Suck pipe (not a spelling mistake)
Pipe still blocked.
Quite dark now.

Get sick of the whole poxy job, reconnect the T piece, stick the old gauge back in an walk away in a huff.

 

[barks944]

Afaik the ARB's should be matched to the springs/dampers as a complete package, you might end up with some strange dynamics if you just add some stiffer ARB's into the mix.

 

[edh]

don't see why not - afaik the arb's are interchangeable on any 924/944/968 (apart from early 924's that didn't have a rear arb)

have a look at this article

http://www.924.org/techsection/SuspensionPreparation.htm

it's a good general guide, & it lists all the different arb's

FWIW - I have a spare turbo rear arb - 16mm - you can have it for some beer []

 

[ocallen]

I have Spax shocks all round with Spax shortened springs on the front, does that help ?

How many beers do you want for the rear arb ?

 

[Peter Empson]

Hi Nicholas,
I used the ones from a 250T (they're the largest of the commonly available ones) and it was a great improvement for the cash on my Lux. I paid something like £50 for a used set, I guess they're about the same nowadays. I think I may have a used S2 front bar (would need to measure it) that's not doing anything so let me know if that's of any use, but it might be a it small for your intended use.

I think as long as you do both bars then you wont have any problems with balance, and even then it's worth noting that Porsche sold the 18mm rear bar as a factory option (which my car had, but has now gone on Simon D's track car).

The 968 M030 stuff I have now is in a different league, but it is quite a bit more expensive too.

 

[ocallen]

Peter

Is the MO30 kit what I should be hanging out for as my ultimate intentions are still the S2 engine etc ? If so, what are the diameters of front and rear in case I find them seperately ?

 

[PJS917]

968 MO30 is the best stuff to fit, it is also all available from your OPC and not as expensive as you might think. It will improve the turn in and all around feel of your car. It is one of the best handling mods you can do.

 

[nick_968]

I have a set of 968 non M030 ones from my car which are same as S2/ Non M030 944 turbo I think if your down South....

 

[Big Dave]

968 M030 arbs are....
30mm front + 19mm rear, although there is also a 21mm rear bar that not many people know about....[][]

 

[ocallen]

Thanks everybody, will get them asap.

 

[TTM]

I retrofitted the 26.8mm front bar on my S2 as I found the shock/spring combination not too stiff enough to work correctly with the 30mm front bar. On my turbo the shock/spring combination make for a much stiffer ride and the 30mm works great with it.

Dave, as far as I know the 21mm rear bar of the Cup car is not available anymore but PET shows a 20mm may still be available. Unlike the 19mm it doesn't seem to be adjustable though, maybe someone could do some maths to calculate if the 19mm on its 3 settings is stiffer/softer than the 20mm [8|]

 

[Big Dave]

Thom. Yes i know its NLA.. and its non adjustable... As i have one in my "stores"....
Weather ill actually fit it, is another matter, as ive just about got my car set up just as i want it...I believe the 21mm bar could induce some oversteer....
Didnt know about the 20mm bar though.????

 

[ocallen]

Where's the best OPC for parts such as the 968 MO30 bars or is there somewhere else I should find them ?