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Bilstein sport shocks - what springs?

RLambert

PCGB Member
Member
Hi,

Does anyone have a view on the best springs to use with bilstein B6 sports shocks?

My car runs on regular (and possibly the original!) suspension which whilst nice and compliant on the road it's awful on track and a handful to control.

I have a set of bilsteins off my race car but the springs on those will be way too stiff so I was wondering if anyone had found a spring combination which is a good compromise between road and track ?

I won't be using the car on track much so it still needs to be nice and friendly for road use.

Cheers
 
Most people go for the H&R greens to go with those shocks. Slightly stiffer than stock springs but still nice on the road. Here's a link to Kevin's suspension upgrade (he put the greens on some time ago):

http://www.964kevin.homecall.co.uk/Suspension/Suspension.html

BTW I believe that H&R have now changed the colour of the greens to purple!
 
Thanks Steve.

It looks like the H&R's are just a stock lowering kit then. Be interesting to find out what the spring poundage is.

What do you run on your car?
 
Dave Wilkinson put some info about the spring rates in the FAQ section above some time ago. Here's a quick link to it:

http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=410762

Like many I decided to go for the KWV3 combination kit. Personally, I think it's the best combination for road and track. KW clubsport would be better for track but too firm and tiresome for the road. I have the dampers set mid way for road use and then just tune the bump and rebound to suit the track e.g. very firm for Spa and backed off a little for Oulton.

p.s. Any racing plans for you this year Richard?
 
Hi Steve, the chart is useful thanks. The KW kit is probably the best option but I have these shocks sitting in my garage gathering dust so I might as well use them.

Racing for this year, yes I will be doing a couple of races in a Citroen 2CV belonging to Steve Jaques (ex PCGB Club racer), we'll do the 24hr event too. Fantastic little car to race, I never knew you could have so much fun with 40bhp and 135 tyres!
 
I completely agree that going to expense of KWV3 (about £1500 now) would be overkill when you've already got good shocks. If you're not bothered about going lower, why not just use the old springs with the newer Bilsteins? There's many that say that you only need to change a spring if it's either fractured or if you want them to be stiffer/softer. They rarely 'wear out'. And don't forget about the engine mounts. Original, sagging ones can have quite an effect on the ride too.

Glad to hear you're still racing. [:)]
 
H&R only do 2 springs sets, one for the 964 (29813) and one for the 965 (29834)

Both blue!
 
Humm, interesting idea Steve about using the existing springs.... I do want to reduce the ride hight a little. The bilsteins do have some height adjustment and I guess if this isn't sufficient I could I could always cut a coil off.
 

ORIGINAL: RLambert

Humm, interesting idea Steve about using the existing springs.... I do want to reduce the ride hight a little. The bilsteins do have some height adjustment and I guess if this isn't sufficient I could I could always cut a coil off.


Bad move, dont cut coils off,

There's usually enough adjustment on the perches, I have H&R greens on mine, and it sits at RS+5mm

These springs have a helper or assister spring with lower rates than normal, just there to keep the spring in the perch.

You should fit RS drop links if you go this low, but many folks don't bother...


Kevin
 
Replaced my shocks and springs a few years back now. Deliberated for a while, then having spoke with Chris at Centergravity went down the Bilstein route with Porsche MO30 springs.
So FWIW, my suggestion with your current shocks would be a set of Mo30 springs. Firm but not harsh, ideal for spirited road driving!
 
Using the M030 springs seems a popular choice looking at Renlist.

I'll have a word with Steve at Jaz to see if he has any knocking about.....
 
According to the PET for the 964, there are no M030 springs listed. It only indicates that there is an M030 option for the shocks and front ARB. [&:]
 
Hey Steve, long time no speak, hope all's well with you and Kath.

On the subject of suspension, thought I should do something with mine this year. It had 30mm lower front springs fitted long before I bought the car as the rears had reportedly sagged and they were fitted to even things up. But I've never been happy as the front springs drop out of the top cups when the car is jacked up. Embarrasing at MOT's!

Whichever route I take, Bilsteins or KWs, will still require the RS drop link and I'm actually wondering if I should have them on now at 30mm lower? but I can't see them on the PET. Do you know the part numbers?

Regards,
Bob.
 
Hi Bob, they're definitely on PET, you must have missed them. They are:

Front Left: 964 343 071 80
Front Right: 964 343 072 80

You don't strictly need them for the suspension options your considering as the C2 ones will work. However, your old ones are likely to be shot by now so it's worth changing them. Mine were, so I put the RS ones on, especially since they're only a few quid more than C2 ones. Both types are over £100 each!
 

ORIGINAL: Steve Brookes

Hi Bob, they're definitely on PET, you must have missed them. They are:

Front Left: 964 343 071 80
Front Right: 964 343 072 80

You don't strictly need them for the suspension options your considering as the C2 ones will work. However, your old ones are likely to be shot by now so it's worth changing them. Mine were, so I put the RS ones on, especially since they're only a few quid more than C2 ones. Both types are over £100 each!

Steve, are you sure they are not needed?
I was under the impression that lowering made the angles change, and the shorter RS drop links made the ARB work in the correct angles,

Kevin
 
Hi Kevin, there's very little difference in the length of the C2 and RS drop links. However, the RS ones are thicker. More substantial. I *guess* the reason for that is to cope with the thicker ARB on the RS - 24 mm versus our 20 mm. My KWV3 worked fine on the C2 drop links for a couple of years. I then changed them because the joints were on the last legs....a decision made easier because I picked up a pair of new RS ones from Talat for half price. [:)]
 

ORIGINAL: Steve Brookes

Hi Kevin, there's very little difference in the length of the C2 and RS drop links. However, the RS ones are thicker. More substantial. I *guess* the reason for that is to cope with the thicker ARB on the RS - 24 mm versus our 20 mm. My KWV3 worked fine on the C2 drop links for a couple of years. I then changed them because the joints were on the last legs....a decision made easier because I picked up a pair of new RS ones from Talat for half price. [:)]
Steve,

cheers, I think i may have read something on Rennlist a few years back, its been a while since I changed mine to the RS versions=. I do remmeber them being shorter, but how much??? well i haven't been there for a while...

Still looking for some more options, to improve the next Curborough installment ;-)


Kevin
 
Kevin,

Yes, there is a bit of confusion on Rennlist about what droplinks can and can't be used. I searched there first to make sure I could substitute my C2 ones for the RS ones so that I didn't buy some thing that couldn't be used. But what really came out in that searching was that a C4 can't use the RS links.

p.s. Forget Curborough mate.....Spa is where you need to go! [;)]
 

The MO30 was the designation used for sports suspension, installed as standard on the turbo models. Subsequently a good upgrade and combination with the Bilstiens on the c2 and c4, although I am lead to believe the spring rating for the fronts are different between the c2 and c4. Well pleased with my set up.
 

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