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Caliper Plates

Now this gets me thinking. Although the plates have been painted this will only delay any corrosuion for a short while but although counter intuitive at first it may be better to use what are considered inferior galvanised screws. Inferior to stainless that is. Or at least in most applications but not in this case.
 
I would advise caution before using galvanised screws as the plating on most will be so thin as to be useless.
It has occurred to me that if moisture can be prevented from reaching the screw the problem could be overcome. Perhaps coating the screw with some heatproof barrier and sealing over the head with silicone sealer? Just a thought.

Chris
 

ORIGINAL: bluedexter

I would advise caution before using galvanised screws as the plating on most will be so thin as to be useless.
It has occurred to me that if moisture can be prevented from reaching the screw the problem could be overcome. Perhaps coating the screw with some heatproof barrier and sealing over the head with silicone sealer? Just a thought.

Chris

Galvanised or zinc plated? in my experience (erecting antenna masts and platforms) properly galvanised bolts will stay corrosion free for many years, zinc plated (passivated?) will not.
Tony
 
There's arguments both ways on this, isn't there? Some people say using a high temp silicone sealant between the caliper body and stainless plates isn't good, others swear by it. Some people say you have to leave the threadlock on the screws, others are happy to use anti seize.

Unfortunately, it seems to be an area where there is no easy solution or accepted wisdom. I do think removing the screws every couple of years and replacing them should prevent them from becoming seized in place though.
 
The problem with zinc plating is that it only gives you a very very thin coating - only microns thin, so as soon as you screw in the plat you'll compromise that coating and get corrosion early. Galvanising provides a thicker coating, but again as soon as you screw in the plate it will crack as the plate distorts as you tighten the screw.

There is no easily solution to this hence why there is the problem in the first place - and why this problem still exists on current Brembo calipers - though not the calipers on new Porsches as their design has completely done away with plates.

The root of the problem is the corrosion between the plate and the caliper - without this there would be no cause to dismantle the caliper in the first place. I think that silicone sealant could work a treat to insulate the spring plate from the caliper - though the thickness of the silicone may cause the plates to pinch against the pad edges. Silicone sealant is used in aero engines to dampen compressor blades and the environment in there is very harsh and after 6yrs on wing the silicone sealant is still as much of a PITA to remove as it is in your bathroom, so there is no problem with it lasting.
 
After almost 24 years of dealing with Brembo alloy calipers on 944's 928's 968's 964's and 993's I still use the same method and jig every week in the workshop that my father was first using 30 odd years ago in the original Mitchell workshop.

Like any young upshot, I used to second guess the "old man's" method initially. I tried every method out there, punching the screw heads and often making a mess and even breaking the head off the screws, resulting in an even harder repair.. But the jig and heat wins every time.

Typically we deal with at least one set of calipers every week, either for cars in the workshop, or calipers sent from other specialists (not just Porsche specialists, so fans of other marques know your pain too!) and our mail order customers. With practice even sheered off screw heads are not a problem where someone else has already "given it a go"

My advice, if you're determined to do it yourself, heating up the screws is the key to getting them out. AVOID the punch method, there isnt much to loose from giving it a go, even if you end up in a mess, we can help you out.

With the slider plates, I don't subscribe to the using sealant behind the plates... In an ideal world, once the plates are out, bead blast the calipers and have them powder coated... or at least bead blast the area behind the plates, etch prime the area and re-paint with a suitable paint.

Lastly, if you are suffering with lifted plates, please do not grind down your pads.. your blessed with wonderful calipers, do them justice and get them working as they should :)

Good luck with this job, if your plates have lifted, you will be amazed how much of an improvement to your brakes you will experience with this issue corrected.

 
simdel1 whereabouts in Peterborough do you live? I work in Peterborough off Maskew Ave. The old girl is parked up there at the minute whilst I get some work done on her including my sexy refurbed calipers lol. You are quite welcome to pop over and have a gander at her any time you want. My number is in the signature. PS as an ex schoolboy karter I wouldn't mind getting a gander at that kart of yours either.
 
heating up the screws is the key to getting them out

You're absolutely right. Heat is a way to go. I have used all kind of methods, but MIG welding gives enough heat to melt Loctite or what ever fluid they ever used in Bergamo Italy way back ago. Its quite usual screws are already destroyed by DIY mechanic, so even heat procedure won't help, then another MIG welded bolt gives aid.

Even quite bad looking calipers can be saved. Here's a set of GT3 Cup calipers i restored last summer. They looked like a grab when i got them.They have had a lot of heat and abuse under a CUP racer, but they turned out nice with some work, new parts and "Corso Rosso Traffico" red powder coat [:)]

cad1687a.jpg
 

ORIGINAL: robwright

simdel1 whereabouts in Peterborough do you live?  I work in Peterborough off Maskew Ave.  The old girl is parked up there at the minute whilst I get some work done on her including my sexy refurbed calipers lol.  You are quite welcome to pop over and have a gander at her any time you want.  My number is in the signature.  PS as an ex schoolboy karter I wouldn't mind getting a gander at that kart of yours either.


Hi Rob, Thanks for the kind offer. I'll send you a PM
 

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