Drilled Discs - 3.2

[Guest]

Just to pop back to one of Jamie's questions. What is the economic way to optimise 3.2 brakes? Well, its kind of the holy grail that I am after. It is getting the standard system to work well. You know, its the same old thing we post about again and again - track pads, high temp fluid and lots of cool air ducting. But the devil, as always, is in the details. I will keep you posted as I keep working with the standard set-up.

What is the optimum solution, fullstop? That would be 930 brakes if you want to keep 15 or 16 inch Fuchs. But the price is pretty high.

The ideal solution, in my mind may be one that lets you use the 964/944T caliper on the front with a 28mm thick disc along with the standard rear caliper and no proportioning valve. This is available, but not at a price that I think is sensible.

BTW, where is the cheapest source for the drilled discs?

Thanks,

Richard

 

[ClubSport 911]

Cheapest...for drilled disks ?? - Zimmerman from any Eurocarparts. About £66 + VAT.... However, I have no reports from anybody that has experienced them (apart from one post on this thread) to give me feedback about results.

I.e

Better feel
Less Fade
Durability
Quality

etc....

It's why the post is here in the first place, so if you do go "drilled" then I'd appreciate the feedback Richard

 

[Guest]

That would be 930 brakes if you want to keep 15 or 16 inch Fuchs

The downside, I am told, is that these brakes are more likely to lockup the front wheels, especially in the wet. Not so hot for street use.

I asked my garage if they were a good idea, and was told that, for the above reason, that they were not really a good idea.

Mind you, more weight in the front would help, but.....

I have Pagid fast road pads, and cooling ducting to the back of each front hub/disc, which is far as I want to go.

 

[Guest]

Well, you need to use the 930 fronts and rears in order to have the correct brake bias. This was all set out in the link above that references a Pelican thread and Bill Verburg. If you do all four wheels then the bias will be correct and it is simply not true to suggest that you are more likley to lock up. If you just do the fronts then I agree with you - and this is particularly true for a 911 with a light front end - as in this instance your bias would be completely wrong.

RB

 

[Guest]

Richard

An interesting point - I was only asking about the fronts at the time, as I had just seen an article somewhere about doing this on a 3.2, so no-one mentioned the bias bit.

The guy that was telling me used to have a 3.0 turbo, whether that had different braking I don't know, but he had problems with the fronts locking.

 

[Guest]

The 3.0 Turbo had the same brakes as the 911S - skinny discs and aluminium calipers. Not great and generally reckoned to be inadequate for the car. The 3.3 Turbo in 1978 IIRC was the first with the 917 derived 4-pot brakes and big 32mm thick discs.

RB