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Hurrah my sills are better than I thought

I used a wire bursh in a power drill and it ate through the stoneguard down to the metal pretty quicky, if you want it all off that's an option. Need to be careful near the edge though.
 
Nice work Paul.

Have you considered offering your services to us less tallented owners? and if so what would you charge. I'm sure I'm not the only one who, for a reasonable fee,wouldnt jump at the chance of a proffesional to sort out minor rust problems.
 
No sorry Chris, it's far too time consuming and not really suited to what I do. Commercially I think people would be far better off having this sort of work done at a bodyshop. The time consuming preparation, rust treatment and application of the Stoneguard could easily be done DIY. Then you could take the car to a local bodyshop to spray the body colour. I'm sure this could be done for around £150 a side.
 
ORIGINAL: Diver944

The time consuming preparation, rust treatment and application of the Stoneguard could easily be done DIY. Then you could take the car to a local bodyshop to spray the body colour. I'm sure this could be done for around £150 a side.
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Perhaps even less than that figure too. I'm picking the car up tomorrow from my local bodyshop where they've done the whole lot (rust removal, prep, stoneguard and paint) for £100 a side.
 
ORIGINAL: PRJ
my local bodyshop where they've done the whole lot (rust removal, prep, stoneguard and paint) for £100 a side.
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Bother - I could have had the weekend off [:D]

Dont foget to praise them to the skies and give contact numbers if you're happy with the job, I think lot of us will need this sort of work as time goes by.
 
ORIGINAL: Diver944

Dont foget to praise them to the skies and give contact numbers if you're happy with the job, I think lot of us will need this sort of work as time goes by.
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Yeah I will do. They said over the phone they look superb now, but I'm notoriously picky, so we'll see [;)] They've also done the lower doors which had some rust staining and sorted a small crease on the n/s rear wing all for £350. Doesn't seem to matter that these cars are galvanised, especially when they happen to have spent 95% of their life in Scotland, or should that be Saltland?

I spent ages looking for a bodyshop that I felt comfortable using and who didn't charge the earth and on the face of it these guys seem pretty good. Hopefully I won't be picking up some 2-tone monstrosity tomorrow [:eek:]
 
Nice one Paul, might be after that gun off you nearer the time (early next year).

I think you might have a point on getting the top coat done at a body shop - I have a one that I use for trade who work on around £50 per panel plus (ahem) VAT, which sounds like good piece of mind!

Is there any maximum length of time the Wurth stuff can be on before the topcoat is applied? Just wondering when to do this, based on the car being on stands for three months!
 
ORIGINAL: sawood12

ORIGINAL: pauljmcnulty


Just as a thought, am I the only one who thinks that the plastic trims always look poorly fitted, and the cars are better without them?

Thanks.
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Scott

I have just removed my plastic trims below my wings.

They are held in place by 3 bolts which screw through u-nuts, through lugs which hang down at the bottom of the wing.

You can adjust the fitting but moving the u-nut further up the lug, to get a tighter fit. Or it could be that the lugs have rusted away, so that they are just held on with 2 lugs, as in my case.

Its all pretty easy to do, just jack it up and have a look behind.
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Hi Paul,
I'm about to do the same job on my Lux as sombody did it with a cement mixer before my ownership, you kindly put the materials used down, could you put the costs involved down as well, if thats not being to cheeky [:)]
Your final job looks the biz by the way
Cheers Ian
 
Sure - the Wurth SKS was £10, the Wurth Shutz gun was £25, the Grenville Rust treatment was £7, the Hammerite underseal was £10, the grey primer and body paint I already had. My 12 hours of labour - priceless [:D]
 
But you would be quicker next time so eventually it would be cost effective for you to do others [;)]
Tony
 
Scotty,

Yes, otherwise they won't be drain holes any more!

Poke them clear with a match. Or bit of wire. Or something. It's not hard ...


Oli.
 
If you are using Dinitrol it is so runny that I don't think it will block the holes up (Waxoil might though). I Dinitrolled my cills and did it again 6 months later, and it ran straight out both times.
 
I used Dinitrol CorroMax and like Phil said it's runny enough to run through the drain holes quite freely. It also made the car smell a bit for a couple of weeks, but in a quite pleasant way (if you like the smell of petrol/WD40 etc)..

Justin.
 
They are bearing up nicely after two years, and now that I have sprayed the insides with Dinitrol I am hopeful to not have any more problems in the short term [:)]
 
what colour is this stuff?? I had the rear wheels off this weekend to clean them off properly and there was some sort of yellow rubbery stuff all over the inside of one of them, thought it might be waxoyl that somehow made its way there.
 
ORIGINAL: Alexw

what colour is this stuff?? I had the rear wheels off this weekend to clean them off properly and there was some sort of yellow rubbery stuff all over the inside of one of them, thought it might be waxoyl that somehow made its way there.
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that would probably be the yellow stuff they use for double yellow lines lol[:D]
 
Waxoyl is a lighter colour, like congealed honey, but thicker than Dinitrol.

Dinitrol is better because they have several products designed for different under bodywork protection. The 3125 cavity wax is the one to use inside sills. I would re-apply every other year as the wax eventually dries out/ is washed out/ dissapears mysteriously.
 
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