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Manthey-Racing presents Porsche 718 Cayman GT4 MR

Can’t claim any expertise Dave but just visualising the front end geometry - in particular relative distances from the hub to the strut top mount versus the pivot on the LCA - I’m sure that there’s much more camber adjustment available (as well as castor adjustment?) with the M-R kit.

As you shim-out the LCA to increase camber I wonder what effect that has on castor and if there’s sufficient adjustment on the standard strut top mount to pull it back within tolerance?

Jeff

 
Twinfan said:
OK, here's a question for you suspension experts. Is there any benefit to running a kit like this but at the same settings acheived via the standard parts or with a couple of LCA shims like on my car? Or is the benefit just further adjustment and increased camber etc?

There is a pure technical benefit...

Ref the parts in the specific kit:

Top Mounts

When you had increased the neg camber at the front via just shims alone - you are increasing track width... and to achieve this you also need to wind off from the tie rods. You need to maintain a certain amount of thread to be engaged on the tie rod to maintain safety. This is ought to be a limiting factor on how much neg camber the shop puts on the car too.

The offset top mounts allow you to increase neg camber without increasing track and therefore you aren't need to wind off from the tie rods to the same level, allowing more adjustment within the safe range of the OEM part.

When changing with the OEM Top mount there is also a side effect of not taking castor out of range... as Jeff says -. the problem here is that changing castor:

[ol][*]changes the wheelbase - which can be used for a benefit -[*]but it also affects the position of the wheel in the wheel well - so could bring rubbing when you apply steering lock.[/ol]MR do also offer the extended tie rod separately, recommended when you go switch to their 3-Way KW setups.

Extended Tie rods also are included in the 981 version of this kit - but we didn't get top mounts in the kit.

Rear Toe Links

If you have adjustable rear toe links already - then you don't need the ones in the kit - but you may not be able to buy there kit without them. If you want the kit - you can always swap to the provided ones - and sell on your existing one.

Benefit of the Adjustable rear toe links has already been discussed.

The other thing you should have to get the proper benefit of these is to have replace the OEM eccentric bolt with a lock out plate.

Hopefully your shop will know this - or what can happened is you set toe via the toe link but impact over the kerbs or pot hole etc - can start to move the eccentric bolt. Lock out plate replaces the eccentric bolt and all the adjustment is isolated to the toe link - as it should be.

Others

The other thing that is a benefit with these types of kits e.g LCA inners, Top Mounts, Caster/Thrust bearings/ is the fact that you'll be swapping about rubber bushes for solid bushes.

This enhances geo stability under loading... where rubber can, by definition, deform regardless of how hard it is.

The trade off is that removing the compliance of the rubber means that you may get more feeling and vibration through and also maybe wear over time although dust boots/cover are available to keep the crud out and the joint/bush clean.

This kit is designed to allow you to have a very wide range of adjustment for a proper geo with full hardware safety - this is really really important.

You can do it piece meal - but you'll end up wanting more and needing to buy more parts anyway...

 
Thanks Jeff. I'm shimmed out to -2 deg at the front at the moment and the castor is towards the upper range of tolerance but still within spec. At the moment my car is all within tolerance except for the front camber which is too high at -2 but that's intentional.

I don't feel I need any more adjustment or change to geo at the moment, I'm just curious if the only benefit is more adjustment withthe MR kit rather than increased stability of settings under load, additional safety from parts failing if they're at their adjustment limits etc.

EDIT: and thanks Tyrone, you've covered the stuff I was thinking about - we cross posted! I'm always up for a bit of tweaking so I may need to speak to RPM Technik about this MR kit.....

 
My car is going into RPM next week for the final stage - MR KW 3-Way.

Can't wait to give it a try.

If you want to chat - let me know.

 
Twinfan said:
Awesome - be good to see it at a track day somewhere!

For PCGB days I'm booked on Silverstone and Donny so far.

Will try to squeeze on some Goodwood days and will book Oulton if it look like the public health situation will allow it.

Then I have a few other events with a few other track day organisers.

 
I'll see you at Donington then for sure. Silverstone is full now and I may see you at Oulton if you decide to go [:D]

 
I think you will be surprised at how good the KW 3-ways are.

The fast-bump makes a huge difference allowing you to run the kerbs without badly upsetting the car ... effectively making it narrower.

It also makes it much better car on the road ... with helper springs to provide a soft transition into firmness ...

Regarding shims and track width ... you may notice that Porsche persistently increase front track to improve turn-in without having to stiffen the car too much ... which is counter productive on a bumpy circuit unless you have maximum unsprung mass ... in which case it is ameliorated.

P.S. I'm booked onto all the northern days within a 450 mile drive in the day ... until we can stay overnight .. based from York.

 
Rather than start a new thread I thought I'd add the info here for reference. My car is currently having the offset front camber plates shown earlier in the thread fitted along with new rear toe links followed by a full geo setup. The front end has just been done, the rear is in progress. If I get any more pics I'll stick them up, but for now here's a quick before...

 
Nice one. Have you got pics of the parts you’ve supplied.

I noticed that the MR kit comes with spacer plates that go onto the top mounts.

Did you get those with your Motorsport order?

 
No, I don't have pics sorry but I saw them in flesh yesterday when I dropped the car off. Don't think there were any spacer plates.

 
Do you have any pics of the MR spacer plates, T? I've only seen the pic you posted of the MR kit (below) which just seems to have the top mounts themselves, unless the items I've ringed are what you're talking about? My parts definitely came with those, whatever they are! :ROFLMAO:

 
If you look at the pic on the left top mount this is upside down...you can just about make out the spacer.

On the one on the right - you can see the spacer is a different material or finish from the top mount.

It is a separate piece.

Looks like it is used to help with the ride height a little.

When you add neg camber - the actual ride height of the car to the ground will lower - even though you haven't changed the spring perches on the coilover.

So I think the plates are this to help mitigate that a little.

Not a problem on a race car which you want to be as low as possible for roll center... but on a road car especially GT4 which is low already and has no nose lift and has kind-of soft spring rate on the front... you don't really want the ride height too low.

I guess they'll see once its all set up... alternatively - they may have to adjust your ride height up on the spring perch to compensate.... and so on and so on. Or you try it on whatever they set on and see how you get on.

Have a look at about 2.52 in this video.. https://youtu.be/N0rN39ijmmg they are doing an install of the MR Kit for OEM suspension along with Öhlins dampers... the öhlins don't come with top mounts like the KW do.. so you re-use OEM or get something like the MR kit to go with it.

At this time stamp he show the top mount and the spacer... its an MR part number by the looks of it, or it’s part of the RS top mount.

[attachment=Screenshot 2021-05-06 at 11.04.14.png]

 
It might be no issue for you... we aren't talking about huge variances - but when the tolerances are so small anyway - could make a difference. Something like the MR kit is fully developed and considers all the details so that car will be still fully usable on the road.

 
Monoball top mounts are not a good way to go for a road car. too much noise and you can have bump steer issues unless you fit Front Bump Steer Kit parts !!!

also you loose track unless you are after -4 cambers !!! ,which is the reverse of what you need. Only needed for extreme -3.5 to -4 race car GT4 camber settings !!

Always better to have oem on the top mounts and move the wheel out from the bottom for fast road spec and a few track days, this avoids bump steer issues in the main and offers more track and turn in.

mates just done the same sort of things for his road car ands hates it, it's all going back to stock and a lot of money down the toilet, you need Monoballs and rubber in the right places imo other wise you end up with a horrid car to drive on the road so bin the PCM unit and save some weight lol

Chris W and TDT cars are very focused track cars, but still have rubber in places.

imo and it's only that the best mods are CUP inner LCA Monoballs all round for a fast road car with say 4 track days a year for fun, this keeps top mounts oem with a bit of give and rubber at the outer LCA to remove vibrations at the wheel end.

keeps it's nice for the road but increases steering feel 10 fold removing 50% of the rubber in the LCA. You can get easy enough camber on the GT4 for a 80% road car without monoball offset top mounts and the disadvantages they bring to cabin noise.!!! plus any more than about -2.2 front camber and you need fully adjustable Caster to get it back in spec.

running cup top mounts and low cambers is daft, you move the wheel in and remove most if not all you fine adjustments as seem in the top mount new pictures where the nuts are , now slammed all the way to the left to offset the offset new top mount posistion lol !

I just don't get why you would do this ? I think the race GT4's run -4.5 or something hence they need the offset.

 

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