My 944 1uz-fe V8 swap

[George Elliott]

Your comments are spot on. I'd add that the heat energy is a big factor, turbo's need to be hot, hence the ceramic coatings to keep the heat in (as opposed to jacketing with a coolant to remove heat) or lagging to keep heat in. If the air was cold it would not propel the turbine to the same extent and the boost would be negligible as a result. There is something like 30 horsepower in the spindle of a 944t turbocharger - power which is salvaged from the exhaust gas energy and is capable of compressing the cold side air to 2, 3 or maybe 4 bar. Wonderful bit of kit IMO [] Another route is a supercharger which consumes significant power doing the same job, and mostly they are thirsty as a result. Those rear mounted units may have an anti lag injector close by to spin them up - certainly they have missed a lot of energy at that point in the exhaust system. George 944t

 

[Woodsport]

The flaw is the amount of time it takes for exhaust gas to travel 7ft, it's pretty much instantaneous, start your car and see how long it takes for exhaust gas to come out the tailpipe.... instant. I actually know people with remote turbo setups, and the lag is not noticeably different. We're talking about 10nths of a second if that in increased lag. Anyway on with the V8 install.

 

[captainsmelly]

Now that you've cut and modded the bulkhead and rail, will you be going down the biva road?

 

[Woodsport]

No i won't be.

 

[captainsmelly]

No worries. I'm considering whether I will or won't, also have numerous monocoque mods but my standard of work is not like yours. Yours looks factory, mine looks errm not so good. So chances of you going unchallenged are way higher than mine!

 

[Woodsport]

To be honest i've been modifying cars professionally for 20 years now, some pretty extensively with lots of chassis work, only in extreme cases would i consider a BIVA, when the car is for my own personal use and i know what i am doing is 100% safe i don't really see the point, from a legal point of view i suppose they should have one, but in reality they never get checked, it's pretty difficult to tell if a car has had chassis work sometimes. I know some Mr2 kit car manufacturers that cut the chassis clean in half, extend it by 11" and chop the roof off (Murceilago replicas) and none of them get BIVA'd despite obviously being structurally weakened by a massive amount. I suspect when someone dies in one the shit will hit the fan.

 

[captainsmelly]

Yes I do sometimes wonder how some of the toyorarris get by.. not getting biva would save me a few grand at least (windows mainly) but there's always the constant worry. Feel free to reply with pm if you'd prefer, how about notifying the dvla of the engine size increase? Mine will be blatant to an mot tester and whislt yours is visually far more subtle they will undoubtedly know, and are they not required by law to inform the powers that be? If when you do get caught there could be a lot of work to make the car legal/compliant which is what I'm worried about. Sorry to pick on you! edit------ Just worked out who you are.. explains a lot about the standard of engineering

 

[Woodsport]

No it's fine, to be honest the BIVA thing is there to stop homebuilt deathtraps being built, but by the letter of the law we all should have them, believe me it's only a matter of time before legislation comes in making it part of the MOT or something. They have already added a headed letter requirement for V5 changes to alter engine CC size, so i have no idea how homebuilder guys get around that one, i suspect most don't inform DVLA (or their insurance) that the car has a bigger engine, all of my engine conversions come supplied with the legal paperwork to make the change official. For a slight bulkhead alteration and a notch at the end of the chassis rail i'm not going to bother with it and if i were you i wouldn't worry too much.

 

[Woodsport]

Ok so new crankshaft oil seal fitted, Fidanza flywheel and clutch installed along with BMW spigot bearing (wow! a German part!)

Then with a little wiggling around this happened....

I appear to own a V8 944! You can see the notch i needed to take out for the PS pump....

And although the BMW Hydroboost/944 brake master isn't cleaned/properly fitted yet you can see the clearance i now have, tight but workable....

Pretty happy to have got this far so quickly, now follows the really hard work.

 

[xschop]

That's what really belongs under the hood.

 

[Woodsport]

Rob i bled the clutch for the first time with the engine in and it is not releasing enough, it would appear i need to space the T56 towards the engine slightly, so engine back out again, i plan to fully test the clutch this time by trying to turn one rear wheel (with the other one locked) in gear with the clutch depressed. I wish there was more info out there, pretty much on my own when it comes to flywheel/clutch info on this, hopefully my build will pave the way for others who won't need to struggle.

 

[stv951]

beautiful result. When do you start installing the wiring of the engine loom ? I would think it should go before the engine sat it, wrong ? Keep up the good work Stefanos

 

[stv951]

Regarding the possibility of German engine swaps there was a 928 with a BMW E39 M5 engine installed. 400 hp from the factory and also a hightech V8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPo6iH6cgd4 sorry for the OT

 

[Woodsport]

ORIGINAL: stv951 beautiful result. When do you start installing the wiring of the engine loom ? I would think it should go before the engine sat it, wrong ? Keep up the good work Stefanos

Hi Stefanos, the wiring is the very last thing to do, all connections will be made inside the cabin, so the engine bay will be virtually finished at the wiring stage. Very nice M5 928 swap, good to see someone else pushing the boundaries.

 

[Woodsport]

Ok so engine back out, and the culprit was the 240mm clutch disc, it was 2mm too big for the pressure plate, and when clamped down was fouling on 3 ribs on the pressure plate, previous info suggested a 240mm disc was fine, it is not. I have now fitted a Mazda Rx8 236mm disc and it works properly now.

 

[Woodsport]

More 948 nonsense... The oil filter remote kit and cooler are now fitted, i have mounted the cooler behind the badge panel, and the plan is to vent the panel so that cold air hits directly in this area...

One of these designs will work well, anyone know who sells them? I can make one myself easily though.

Filter relocated here...

Radiator hoses connected....

 

[os951]

Paul, vented nose panels does not work on our cars. If you like to use cooler installed to place where 951 IC is located, you should use 951 plastic tunnel which brings air to IC via bumper vent.

We have tested this also with air temp meter. You get cool air via bumper not via vented nose pane. Vented panels are more or less for looks, nothing else.

 

[Woodsport]

I don't understand why that would be the case? Surely if i make a hole in the front panel then air is going to rush into that...... it seems impossible to me that it wouldn't?

 

[Mike_Pollock]

It has been tried lots of times - most recently I think Swindonmick on here. Venting the badge panel is fine on a 924 Turbo (4 hole panel) but no one I know of has got vented badge panels to work and quite a few who have tried, have been very disappointed with the results. I think the problem is what happens to the air once inside, but I'm not sure. Oli is correct as usual.

 

[Woodsport]

It makes no sense at all, if you put a hole at the front of a car air will rush into it at speed, it's impossible for it not to..... My oil cooler is directly behind that hole, so i don't understand how the oil cooler (and top of the rad for that matter) wouldn't be seeing airflow? Can someone explain how air is prevented from going in? Are we saying if i stick my Anemometer directly behind a vented nose panel it will register nothing at all? Sorry i don't believe that.