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My Porsche 964 C2 diary

Cheers Stephen,

I don't think coming over to try your scan tool would have solved this but this was certainly the cause of the issues I was having :)

I would say that it would depends on the level of damage to the diaphragm, starting it was enough to cause a fire on mine at the very end, so the vacuum on start was enough to suck enough fuel in, to catch fire.

I imagine in its earlier days of demise, a run or a certain amount of higher revs, which would create a larger vacuum, was required to suck fuel through.

So may be best to start it up and check and if OK, try again after a bit of a run, just in case.
 
Small update!

Injectors back already, posted Friday, landed back on my door step Wednesday, that's how you provide a quick service!

Seriously impressed, old seals, filters and caps returned, injectors looking like new, full report sheet, care instructions and a nice bottle opener!

The report has me pretty excited to see if there are any noticeable differences to be had when up and running again, nice peace of mind with these now. Really good to see that these sorts of small businesses are still out there.

Thanks James at Injector Tune. https://www.injectortune.co.uk/

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Trying to keep these rolling as I progress to avoid a single update which takes ages to put together.

All engine bay fuel lines removed. I am going to leave the main the larger ones as a project for another time (I may regret that). I'm eager to get the car up and running and once I know everything is good, I can plan the jobs for the winter period where it gets laid up. The larger pipes are accessible so I won't have to do this sort of disassembly to remove those.

Fuel lines removed

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They don't appear to be in too bad of a condition but after giving one a little flex, the outer layer held the pinch and just seems dry, so I think it's wise to replace.

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I have a plan for the fuel lines, I was going to go with the AN fittings but in the end, I'm going with an option which will be worry free and look equally as nice. Ninemeister, a well known UK Porsche specialist, known for creating some beautiful restorations have all of the equipment to remake the fuel lines, to a better than new, modern day specification, capable of dealing with E10 and higher fuel, the hose has an outer braiding which looks nice but most importantly, retains the original fittings, so it will all fit up nicely and be worry free. If I were to make up the AN lines, I would always have a worry in the back of my mind.

Picture pinched from google
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That's all I can do until I get the fuel lines back, so I turned my attention to the PAS pump, secondary backbox removed, the bracket for this gave me a real headache, the bolts were both rusty, 1 was seized into the sleeving which goes through the PAS belt cover area and the other, the one which had really difficult access was like a chocolate biscuit.

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I eventually got the lower one out and as much as I tried to be efficient and not remove the shock, I ended up removing the shock which enabled me to remove the upper bolts within minutes, after already spending way too long on being stubborn and trying to remove it with the shock in the way.

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Not so clean in there.
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I called it a day there, few new bolts and clips ordered to replace old items, fuel hoses due to be shipped up north, PAS pump to be removed and fitted with new seals.

Ohh need to get hold of a cam locking tool I believe, to remove the lower pulley!

That's all for now.



 
Small update,

PAS pump split and seals renewed. Hopefully that stops the leak it had

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Various stainless bolts for stuff

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Oil drained + filtered, filter removed and cut open, no big chunks, phew. i did see some glitter however..

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Removed the rear seal for PAS bracket, I nearly did not do this but I'm glad I did, the seal just crumbled!!

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New seals and a clean

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Replacing these while here, few age cracks on the areas of the hoses above the wheel

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New shaft seal, this has to be fitted once cover is in place!

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Pulley replaced and new PAS belt

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Pump back in place and ready to go again, new pump - bottle hose too, original was sweating.

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Pulled the plugs, they were all uniformed, all like this

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FUEL PIPES!

These are impressive, original fitting end but with modern day over braided hose, they look stunning! Made by a company called Ninemeister in the UK.

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Combined with my 928sRus FPR! I'll remove the labels at some point

]
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Regretting not replating or painting the fuel rail but oh well, I just want to know that the engine is OK

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Nearly there, next time I work on it, I'm hoping I can get the manifold back on, fill up with the cheap 10w/40 to use as a flushing oil and then give it a try! I'll be priming the fuel system by bridging the relay points (30 and 87 right?) to pressurise the system and make sure there are no leaks prior to the manifold going back.


 
Looking great Mark, well done.

Daft question; if all those fuel lines and connection or current day and using modern materials, you think your fuel system is E10 fuel ready then?
 
I guess so, Ninemeister did say the fuel lines are E10 compatible. I'm just not sure on the internals in the engine to be honest, isn't that the bit that could get eaten away at?
 
Interesting. Maybe the line ID's are teflon/other coated for protecting against the increased ethanol. Not sure about the engine mention. Will check that out some point..
 
I think it's fine as long as your just flush out when you can.

Been a bit tied up recently but a couple weeks back, I got the car started and I'm happy to say, it's running better than it ever has in my ownership!! Started on the button and just sounds so much smoother.

Not too many pictures as wasn't much to show and I was just keen to get it fired up to put my mind at ease or prepare the bank for the rebuild.

All buttoned back up, cleaned, filled with the 10w/40 halfords oil (for flushing), engine primed a few times, it then fired up instantly and just settled at a normal cold idle. I then turned it off to quickly check fuel joints and around the engine, all good, so fired it back up and all was well, so left it for 5 mins to get some heat.

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I couldn't believe how good it sounded and throttle response is definitely better, I used to get a rich smell but that doesn't exist anymore (obviously) and the throttle always seemed to have some delay, so I think the combination of a working FPR and refreshed injectors have worked wonders here. I will take it out for a few drives to get it up to temperature and cycle the oil before dumping it and filling with millers 10/60 and fitting another new Purolator oil filter, then I can move forward with enjoying it again! (maybe not so much over winter) :)

Cheers
 
Looking good Mark. Like the fuel line labelling too. I guess any injectors (engine running fine or not) would always benefit from a professional clean up and testing. I'll see what's left in the bank of 964 - not much I suspect!
 
I would recommend the injector cleaning to anyone with any car which has done over 60/70k or 10 year old. For ÂŁ80 or so for 6, its the best sub ÂŁ100 thing you can do to these. Hugely impressed. Obviously just a bit of time getting your rails off but that isn't hard and you get new seals with the refreshed injectors so you literally do not need to spend anymore than the cost of the refurb.

Highly recommended, and injectortune who did the job were top notch, so very happy all round.
 
Been a while since I have updated this, not too much has happened due to winter and the car being tucked away.
More recently, I have unearthed the 964, ready for the warmer days and some events. Unfortunately, all hasn't gone so smoothly..

A few months back, I changed the belts, a dead easy job which stopped an occasional start up squeal from a slipping belt.
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Last week, back out of the Bubble ready for an MOT. I had a near miss, I had left the door open on my MX5 while doing some jobs on it and as I was walking back to it, a gust of wind took the door!! In that split second, I had a heart attack but fortunately, the bubble simply bounced it back!! Perhaps I would have shut the door if the 964 was not inside the bubble but either way, an expensive accident was avoided! One thing my normal car covers would not have been able to protect.

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Filled with V power
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MOT passed, no issues at all and all looking very healthy on the underside although I will need to change the rear facing crank seal, that is weeping.
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I recently moved to a new house and it has speed bumps entering the close, this was the first time the 964 had been here and I did have some concern, fortunately, it only just gets over without rubbing.

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With a run of good weather, I was using the car, no issues at all and feeling very good. I'm still amazed at the thumbs up and looks it gets.

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I love these seats, looking for a product to take the shine away. Note the temporary but quick access positioning of the extinguisher [:D]

So a few days later, it was time to get to the Fairmile Porsche meet, met up with some friends and we all headed off, after 20 mins of rush hour stop start, we got on to the A3 and all was well until I was around 5 minute away from the meet, I started getting an occasional thump from the rear of the car, this turned out to be the car temporarily dropping out of drive and then back in as the engine misfired. Slightly confused as to what was going on, I got parked at the meet and poked around the engine, nothing appeared wrong, so just I just left the car and enjoyed the meet.

While I was happy and it was driving nicely

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On the way home, instantly I had the same issue and was forced over to the hard shoulder twice as the problem got worse, I managed to get home OK and as it was late, the stalling at traffic lights didn't cause any embarrassment. Once in the garage, I did notice a ticking from the coils but as I was a bit grumpy and it was near midnight, I closed up and went off to bed.

In the mean time, plenty of googling and questions to others in the know, brought about many possible causes to my stalling issue, MAF, ISV, Vac leak, Coils, Leads, etc etc etc Everything basically. At this stage, I really did not want to be pulling everything apart in a trial and error fashion, I wanted a resolution without much fuss. Thankfully, due to past issues, I had an offer from a very kind member who happened to be local, with the offer of using his Bosch Hammer. If you don't know, this is a tool that anyone who tinkers with a 964 (or 928, 944 etc) should own! I have always known of the Hammer and been told that I need to have one, my car would benefit from an adaptation, you can use it to activate certain components and it can read/clear errors. As my car was never on the road, I could never get it over to be plugged in, once again, not possible due to the danger of breaking down or causing more damage. Anyway, long story short, I was able to pick up the hammer, enjoy a good chat and listen to how a healthy 964 and how it should sound.

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I made some time to get back on to the car and investigate the issue, the first check was the ticking coils. Covers removed, car on, one of the coils was arcing and when this was occurring, the engine speed would drop and this is exactly what was happening while driving. It grew worse as engine revs increased. These coils are brand new Bosch items, you will have seen that they were fitted a short time ago and certainly not covered many miles at all. After cleaning terminals and wires, the problem continued. I swapped the position of the coils and while doing this, I regretted ignoring everyone's advice to go for 993 items but my logic was, how bad can the 964 ones actually be. My originals lasted since 1991, 80k miles and did the job, why should a new pair be so bad?

Plugging in the Hammer revealed a single error, HALL SIGNAL - This essentially tells me that there is an ignition problem, so this backed up my thoughts on the coil being the cause of my running issue.

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Anyway, after swapping coils, the problem vanished! Error cleared and it did not come back. That's odd, so I wanted to pull them back off to check them out and discovered the issue, take a look inside where the lead plugs in, it was covered in the casting material of the coil and as they have got hot, fused the pieces together to cause a build up on the contact surfaces blocking a clear path way for the spark, so it ended up looking for a less resistant path.. Obviously by swapping the coils, the positioning of the HT leads in the coil causing the problem may have just be aligned enough to work properly.

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So there you have it, poor quality on Bosch's behalf, the inside of these should be given a good wire brush or poked at with a sharp tool of sorts to ensure all of the contact area is clear of the casting material, an oversight on my behalf but not something I have ever had to do, or expect to do!

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I refitted everything back together and started the car, it instantly run better and not more sparks! No more errors.

A test drive proved that the car was now back to 100%, running nicely, feeling much smoother as it should. Upon getting back home, with temperatures up, I wanted to perform a system adaptation, this is so that the car can reprogram itself to all of the new items I have fitted to the car, O2 sensor, ignition system and even fuelling. This was something else a few guys had told me, I NEED to do but as always, the car would never be ready to get out and over to someone to do it.

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Anyway, if this has not been performed on your car, DO IT!!! Get it done, I honestly cannot tell you the difference it has made, complete night and day difference. The car fires up QUICK, it runs smoother, throttle response is sharper, it doesn't feel lumpy, especially when stopped and held in D, it's just smooth and as I would expect. My car would occasionally stall when shifting between D and R and parking, now there is no sign of this happening, no rev drops, no hesitance, just a totally well-behaved tiptronic 964! This made a world of difference to the running of my car and I am very surprised.

So that concludes the latest saga and hopefully I can continue with a perfectly running 964, I am due to take it for a long run one night this week, just to be sure and doing so at night, just in case of the worst. I feel happy on it's last outing which was 40 minutes, it was perfect but I just want to be sure no errors come back and it runs just right.

So another lesson for you all, check your coils, I'm still on the fence over 964 vs 993 coil debate, I wanted to stick with the original fitting items, there is not performance difference, only reliability but as my originals lasted so long, I figured that these will, learnt a lesson on checking the inside of the terminals but could just be bad luck.

So, fingers crossed, I should have one very well sorted car now, lots of new parts, hopefully it can be enjoyed... but the option of a manual car looms...










 
Glad to hear everything is sorted, making me think I should try an adaptation on mine to see if it helps with my lumpy idle.
 
I hope it is, I'll be out for a run tonight so I'll be in touch about popping back over.

I think it's worth a go for sure, although your car sounded amazingly smooth on the cold start.
 
Plenty of work done there Mark. Nice one. Touch wood I've never had coil problems (not yet anyway). I have a spare pair of original coils included in an ebay purchase years back of a Beru lead set. Worth noting though that it seems Bosch quality control maybe isn't what it used to be - that, or later manufacturing processes 'cut corners' a bit. However, if mine were to go I would jump to a pair of 993's.
 
Only when cold is idle lumpy and stalls easily, doesn't stall when hot. I had icv off a year or so ago and cleaned it out and have only done few thousand miles since.
 
Hmm.. interesting. Years back my first 964 kept stalling (when stationary) but when hot. Workshop manual reading pointed the issue to the charcoal cannister under the rear n/s wing. All part of the fuel evaporative system and not working correctly. New cannister and perfect - never the issue again. I guess as a consumable, after 20 odd years and 120+k miles of use it was waiting to happen.

Post up what cures your lumpy idling. I did take apart my MAF and very carefully cleaned all the arm contact areas of dust and electrical scorching. I remember it feeling a little smoother afterwards.
 

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