New member, new questions!

[Guest]

I'm more amazed as the weeks go by (I drive mine daily) how much better this car is performing the more I drive it. Initially, I thought I might have been imagining improvements when I was more likely simply getting used to the experience of driving this fantastic bit of engineering genius but now I can hear that it's better, is more settled when idling, starting to whistle at low revs (that's all I can really describe it as, like a very low pitched whistle sound behind the growly engine sound), and pulling away better with a lot more response than when I first bought it nearly 2 months ago.

I'm going to give it another 4 weeks or so and then take it along for a second opinion regarding the high leak test results that I began this post asking for advice about. Hopefully, I'll be given better news than the first results, or at least signs of improvement.

Iain, I'd be really interested to hear how you get on with that engine treatment. I've read the recommendation about Redex and so am wondering whether to use either of these additives.

The addiction of driving this car is something I'd never anticipated. I'm even wishing I had to drive further than the current 50-mile round trip to work!! I even feel a bit sad when I leave the M25, such is the enjoyment of even sitting in slow or not-moving traffic in this beauty! God.... I think I need help!!

John

 

[bones]

One word ........addicted!

 

[Guest]

Hi John

Just reporting back on the Comma D-Tox.

Firstly, I have no idea what state the engine was in before I used this - at 72k it still pulled well and there were no real complaints. Secondly I have not looked inside the engine to see physical results of the additive.

So this is all rather tenuous, but nevertheless I do believe there is a slight improvement in response and things do seem slightly smoother - also, I believe there is less smoke on start up.

I use the car daily and often on short journeys, so I think that regular treatment like this should be valuable if it does the job it's supposed to - it would be interesting to know if there was a simple way of proving the effectiveness without dismantling the engine or paying for a top end compression/leakage test.

 

[dtunnicliffe]

Iain,

Gunsons do a "T" bar compression tester (I've been using one for years with good results). Works with all plugs removed and engine rotated at cranking speed on a good battery (wife or girl friend comes in handy at this point) while you read off the compression figures. The device only cost s few quid and works by pressing (quite hard) the rubber cone into the plug hole (the arm of the "T" is quite long but only just reaches the top of the plug hole). I believe Tools Direct sell them on-line.

Dave

 

[les richards]

Just read the posts from the new owner and was most interested in the replies - and comforted by the general tales of engine longevity experienced by you all.

Concerning Martin Harvey, is he a Porsche/911 specialist or 'just' a knowledgeable owner? Reason for asking is that I live near Broxbourne, as mentioned in one of the replies, and always looking for someone close in case I need help - although currently have a 944, but one day......

Regards.

 

[bones]

Ian I live 10 mins away from Broxbourne , I know virtually nothing about 944s but if you need a seconhead or an elastoplast send me an email. Likewise email Martin if you want to pick his brains.

 

[Guest]

John,
Have you changed the oil yet?
If the oil is clean, and the right viscosity ( there's that sketch from Peter Cook and Dudley Moore), you don't need any additives.
Save ya money and change the oil more often; simple.
I just added a litre to mine last weekend, the first since October last year, using 15/50 mineral oil. Never smokes ( only after sex)!
Take it to the top,

 

[Guest]

ORIGINAL: Iain Davis

Just reporting back on the Comma D-Tox.
...
I use the car daily and often on short journeys, so I think that regular treatment like this should be valuable if it does the job it's supposed to - it would be interesting to know if there was a simple way of proving the effectiveness without dismantling the engine or paying for a top end compression/leakage test.

Thanks Iain. I'm definitely going to put it on my 'things to try next' list - at the moment, I'm driving it as hard as I can, finally having found the nerve not to do gear changes where possible until up at around 5-6,000 revs. My previous car would have dumped itself on the road ... but then, so would I!! [&:]. Far from sounding tired and in any way bad, it's sounding smoother and idling much more happily ... so unless I'm a total idiot novice, then I seem to be doing the right thing.

That, and keeping the revs at least above 3,000, preferably 4,000 where possible, while pootling along. In fact, even the right side of the speed limit on the motorway, I rarely change up from 3rd.... Someone, please, tell me if I'm actually doing a stupid thing! Ta. []

Next on the list is an oil change, though I haven't found the heavy stuff yet - the bods at Halfords didn't know what I was talking about.

John

EDIT : replaced 'bad' word .... []

 

[Guest]

ORIGINAL: peter915

John,
Have you changed the oil yet?
If the oil is clean, and the right viscosity ( there's that sketch from Peter Cook and Dudley Moore), you don't need any additives.
Save ya money and change the oil more often; simple.
I just added a litre to mine last weekend, the first since October last year, using 15/50 mineral oil. Never smokes ( only after sex)!
Take it to the top,

Peter,

The last time I had an opportunity, I went into Halfords and they didn't know what that would be. Should they have it or would I find it elsewhere? In the meantime I've been topping up with Magnatec as I needed something and at the time I'd read that as recommended on another thread on these forums.

However, I've since read elsewhere that once you use this you shouldn't move back to a mineral oil. Is that true??

John

 

[Guest]

Bones posted this link from Pelican, regarding blowing out carbon with water .... Anyone got any knowledge on whether this is a good thing to do?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=83059&highlight=carbon+water

 

[Guest]

The link posted by Bones sounds "Very Interesting".
I've wondered about water injection before - now I think I'll give it a go.
Good one Bones.[8D]
John, you can get 15/50W oil at almost any good Garage - forget Halfords - they gime the tihs's!!!
Or try any good parts store.

 

[Guest]

In fact, even the right side of the speed limit on the motorway, I rarely change up from 3rd.

Petrol must be cheap 'up north' in Watford !

I'm generally lazy, change up to 5th fairly early (can't always be bothered with all that racket), 3,000 rpm on the motorway (and generally no more than that around town).
OK, so the car has lot more torque than the standard 3.2, but....

Still runs fine. Idles smooth. Goes.

 

[bones]

Post the results Peter , Where are you going to intruduce the water? Watch out for vapour lock other than that it seems straightforward.

 

[steh]

hi john, just had an oil change and the garage used magnatec, said that is what there use in all there cars the age of ours. i think that if you were to change the oil back to minaral you might have to flush the enging out first. although i think you could get away without flushing it.

steve
ps how long you been useing this oil and have you noticed any diffrence in any way

 

[bones]

I've been using Magnatec for two years now, it didn't cause any leaks I didn't already have (I've just removed, refurbished and then reinstalled the engine and it doesn't leak at all now that old gaskets, o-rings and seals have been replaced). I think it's the 'best' oil I've used in the sense I'm confident at cold starts that the parts are all better lubricated due to this oils magnetic properties and it's relative lightness compared to mineral oils. Due to my recent engine work I replaced the oil and the oil that was drained was still like new after 3,000 miles. The only downside of this oil is it's high cost and it I think I use slightly more per thousand miles than previous.

 

[Guest]

There is an interesting point in Peter Zimmerman's buyers guide about leak-down and compression tests made inaccurate if metal filings foul the valves when the plugs are removed.
I can recommend the book even after you have bought the car. [8|]

 

[Guest]

ORIGINAL: John Bellringer

In fact, even the right side of the speed limit on the motorway, I rarely change up from 3rd.

Petrol must be cheap 'up north' in Watford !

Sadly, no! But people on here told me to rev it up and drive it like a demon ... well, not quite, but I'm just working it hard to (hopefully) get better compression/leak readings when I have it looked at for the first of several second opinions soon.

 

[Guest]

I've been heartened by all the advice on here since my initial concern after the original compression readings, thanks guys. []

In a few weeks, I'll be having a second opinion from somewhere else, then another opinion from another place, and hope that it will be more positive than the first.

John

 

[Guest]

Hi John

Further to my last post, the most obvious thing that has changed since using the Comma D-Tox is that there really is no noticeable smoke anymore when I start the engine which suggests to me that the engine has been well and truly de-coked.

 

[bones]

Ian it's great you are making progress but I very much doubt you have cured your engine from smoking at start up it's a characteristic of flat engines, sooner or later it'll give a little puff probably if it's been sitting idle for a week or so.