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Revalving 964rs shocks

fitted the new shocks...

front: 2 brand new items
rear: 2 revalved ones

=> result => huge disappointment... the front of the car is raised by 15-20mm ... reason?? don't know... probably because the new shocks are stiffer than the old ones I guess. Means that I can't apply my old geo settings.

What should I do?? Refit the old ones?
 
No, get it reset up, preferably run the new shocks in first. Then have your flat floor and geo and ride ht, done again. I recon then you will tell the difference.
 
thanks guys :)

how long would it take you reckon in order to run in?? Could take 10years time seeing the limited mileage
 
Yes good point, I skirted around that one. The truth is I don't know I used to let cars settle for about 500miles, but they were ones I used on the road. On race cars you tend to set up the car everyother race or so (depending on budget), so for a track car I dont know, something in the middle? The problem is that it will cost you 600quid for a good setup, so you dont want to be doing it again in 3mnths or so.

[:-]

That's not very helpfull is it, Perhaps someone else has better experience or we hope one of the professionals chip in? I know I will have the same dilema in about a years time, so keen to see your story through.

All of that wishy washy stuff said, I still think that sticking with the new shocks and sorting the setup is the right way to go. You clearly know how to drive the car, so I be very suprised if you didnt feel / see the benefit.
 
But your ride height is set by the spring not the shock, so why can't you just adjust the height? I'm assuming your spring rates are the same as before but then the springs could be a different length I guess. If you don't have the adjustment to set the correct height just use your old springs.

A shock/spring doesn't need running in (other than 50 yards).

And of course changing shocks won't change the geo, if you set the ride height the same.
 
Ahhhhh........then something else must be wrong? Very wierd. I assume you have full damper movement, and that the springs are seated correctly? And that you put the right springs back on the right dampers? Got to be something simple perhaps.

(PS Richard a pleasure to meet you Tuesday night)
 
just got the car back and it's actually better than expected.

I now measure 98mm left front and 102mm right front (ground - jack point) ... tank about half full. So maybe everything has to settle in bit the first 100's of kilometers. The car is about 5mm's higher now than it used to be.

One thing that I'm still going to check during the weekend is the springs... they have to be yellow-marked in order to be proper RS items. Car is very very firm though at the front, so I assume the right springs are fitted.
 
So the car is about 10mm higher at the front since installing the new shocks.

Accordingly I put the car 10mm higher at the back as well

this is the new stance:

IMG_1032.jpg



All I have to do now is applying a good geo. I'd like to reach camber settings 3°/2°30' (front/rear) but I need some Cup parts in order to achieve that.

Someone who can advise me on what parts I exactly need?
 
Loving the garage. [:D]

Do you really need cup parts? I thought RS suspension was good for 3 degrees, and I swear my car is at 2.5 f/r already? Will go and check my setup sheet. Keen to understand the case here.

Its a good thread this one!
 
jeeeszzz... I really need a 964Rs specialist to have a look at my car... I've always struggled to get it to 2° front...

regarding the reason why the car is 10mm higher at front now will probably due to the new shocks... I did a small test run yetserday and the car feels certainly firmer
 
height looks spot on,maybe old shocks were very bad,mine looks same height at front and there is no more to go...maybe 5mm max

oooh that garage is nice[;)]
 
Just checked, yep 2.5 degrees front and rear, and I'm sure we decided not to go too aggressive on the setup too, until we knew we could work the tyres. I'm planning on getting the setup redone and will aim for 3 degrees at the front. I'm sure it can be done on RS components. They were race cars after all.

 
just called "a specialist" in Belgium and we talked about this issue. After Summer holiday I will make an appoitment at his place and he will have a look on the camber thing.

Regarding the car being 10mm higher than before he wasn't too surprised: The shocks consist of mainly oil, in combination with some gas (in order to reduce the oil-waves when the shock is operating). According to him the gas-part in the shock loses some of its volume in time which would explain the piston sitting "deeper"
 
Just some observations. You should take ride height settings from the frame head bolts not the jack points. the figures and the checking points are in the tech spec book. rear is taken from trailing arm boss (if memory serves)camber is a function of the slotted top bolt on the lower part of the strut at the front , that adjustment sets camber.At the rear there is an eccentric adjuster. However toe and caster can change camber settings. usually you set caster first then toe then camber.
Height (as someone has already pointed out) is set via the collars/ spring platforms. You can do all of this at home with some basic tools providing you have a decent level garage floor. look up 4-wheel alignment string method and also smart camber tool on the net for more info.
 
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