paul howells
New member
As i thought they would be,manthey spot on for the ring,2mm total front toe is fine,could run down to 1mm total on the front.
Rear is plenty at 2.5mm per side ,total 5mm.What this will do is keep the car very stable during braking and acceleration,with some compromise on drag,but ideal for the ring. 4mm would be plenty for a road /track car.
Your car should not be that far away,sort the roll bars,new tires ,see what it is like.
But before that,get your car checked for nothing left loose after set up,and car has not settled into other settings because of some thing worn.I spanner check my car before every track day and race,the stiffer the car the more chance of something working loose.The best race teams still leave things not tightened correctly,wheels coming off etc
Top tip for track day cars,check your gearbox and engine mounts are tight,especially if you have had a clutch etc fitted.
People also get hung up about corner weights,get them some where near right and the concentrate on how flat the car is,or correct rake etc
Front toe also makes a big difference on initial turn in,some like it toeing out like a lot of race sports cars do,i prefer toe in and a stable car especially in the wet or greasy track /hillclimb.
If you set the car all up and then alter ride height,you must revisit all your setting as toe and camber will change.
Also one that people miss is castor,a track 911 likes and needs as much as possible,again keeps the car stable.
If you look at the factory motorsport manuels for cup,gt2 etc,there are differant settings for different tires,such as mich slicks camber 3.5 front and 3 rear,pirrelli slicks 4 front and 4.5 rear. and toe and castor settings also all different.Thats why its important to get your car set up to your tires,suspension and driving style you like.
Phil if you send me your address i can send you a copy of the factory handbook,you can then copy and return to me.
993 cup on mich cups,as they were the control tyres for the open class 3 at the time.32 hot all round.
Camber,3.5 front rear 3,toe front 1 to 2 mm,can reduce to 0 to 1 mm for spa..toe rear 2mm per side.
roll bars rear full stiff,front 1 or 2 off full stiff,dependant on track temp/grip.Castor on the front max,(in fact the factory do a gt2 top mount with even more castor up to 7/8 deg.
My 993rsr is similar settings apart from the factory used to run 3mm per side rear toe on pirrelli tires.
Wet, Leave all settings the same,apart from tires alittle more pressure at cold,tyres to be around 34 working pressure,rear roll bar disconnect one side and cable tie drop link back to damper,front full soft,this will then understeer at the max grip level,if you want the rear to move,connect the rear to full soft also.
My 993 rs is/was about the same settings as the manthey 964rs settings,worked fine for road,track days and the ring,especially on the dunlop DO1J tire or Kumhos.
The best part of the 993rsr is the adjustable front roll bar from inside the car,you can then adjust with fuel load dropping,such as spa 1 hour race you can feel the understeer dialing in.Its interesting adjusting the front roll bar while flying up the kemmel straight!
A lot of info,but it may help,its cost me a lot of money and time over the years.If you want to get it right,keep a log of all adjustments and log its results/feedback.
Rear is plenty at 2.5mm per side ,total 5mm.What this will do is keep the car very stable during braking and acceleration,with some compromise on drag,but ideal for the ring. 4mm would be plenty for a road /track car.
Your car should not be that far away,sort the roll bars,new tires ,see what it is like.
But before that,get your car checked for nothing left loose after set up,and car has not settled into other settings because of some thing worn.I spanner check my car before every track day and race,the stiffer the car the more chance of something working loose.The best race teams still leave things not tightened correctly,wheels coming off etc
Top tip for track day cars,check your gearbox and engine mounts are tight,especially if you have had a clutch etc fitted.
People also get hung up about corner weights,get them some where near right and the concentrate on how flat the car is,or correct rake etc
Front toe also makes a big difference on initial turn in,some like it toeing out like a lot of race sports cars do,i prefer toe in and a stable car especially in the wet or greasy track /hillclimb.
If you set the car all up and then alter ride height,you must revisit all your setting as toe and camber will change.
Also one that people miss is castor,a track 911 likes and needs as much as possible,again keeps the car stable.
If you look at the factory motorsport manuels for cup,gt2 etc,there are differant settings for different tires,such as mich slicks camber 3.5 front and 3 rear,pirrelli slicks 4 front and 4.5 rear. and toe and castor settings also all different.Thats why its important to get your car set up to your tires,suspension and driving style you like.
Phil if you send me your address i can send you a copy of the factory handbook,you can then copy and return to me.
993 cup on mich cups,as they were the control tyres for the open class 3 at the time.32 hot all round.
Camber,3.5 front rear 3,toe front 1 to 2 mm,can reduce to 0 to 1 mm for spa..toe rear 2mm per side.
roll bars rear full stiff,front 1 or 2 off full stiff,dependant on track temp/grip.Castor on the front max,(in fact the factory do a gt2 top mount with even more castor up to 7/8 deg.
My 993rsr is similar settings apart from the factory used to run 3mm per side rear toe on pirrelli tires.
Wet, Leave all settings the same,apart from tires alittle more pressure at cold,tyres to be around 34 working pressure,rear roll bar disconnect one side and cable tie drop link back to damper,front full soft,this will then understeer at the max grip level,if you want the rear to move,connect the rear to full soft also.
My 993 rs is/was about the same settings as the manthey 964rs settings,worked fine for road,track days and the ring,especially on the dunlop DO1J tire or Kumhos.
The best part of the 993rsr is the adjustable front roll bar from inside the car,you can then adjust with fuel load dropping,such as spa 1 hour race you can feel the understeer dialing in.Its interesting adjusting the front roll bar while flying up the kemmel straight!
A lot of info,but it may help,its cost me a lot of money and time over the years.If you want to get it right,keep a log of all adjustments and log its results/feedback.
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