Strut braces
- Thread starter appletonn
- Start date
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
There are two options I'm aware of, the first should fit any non turbo 944 (there were initially some clearance issues, see threads on the 968forums.com), the latter is universal but more expensive. I love the engineering on the B&K one and the exchange rate makes the price really tempting, but I believe this also requires a full alignment thereby adding to the cost substantially.
I'm planning on looking at this more seriously sometime later this year as I'm convinved it should make a really big difference on a stiff car.
RSBarn
B&K
I'm planning on looking at this more seriously sometime later this year as I'm convinved it should make a really big difference on a stiff car.
RSBarn
B&K
Guest
New member
Neil
If you want to tighten the rear end up you could always go the same route as me http://www.kokeln.com/rear_suspension_kit.php This gets rid of the torsion bars so you need to get some coilovers and the racers edge bottom mounts. Doesn't half tighten the back end up!!! And saves about 25lb too!!!
Neil Haughey
New member
Now your just showing off!
Have to say I spotted the Kokeln set up a few years back and always looked like a fantastic option for anyone who is super serious about tracking their 951, probably a bit to extreme for me S2. I might even go back to stock bushings on the rear and use my Elephant racing bushes and weltmeister mounts (still in packaging) on something else.....
....maybe with a turbo.
Then I could drive pork all the time and never have to sully my rear in non-pork cars again.
Have to say I spotted the Kokeln set up a few years back and always looked like a fantastic option for anyone who is super serious about tracking their 951, probably a bit to extreme for me S2. I might even go back to stock bushings on the rear and use my Elephant racing bushes and weltmeister mounts (still in packaging) on something else.....
....maybe with a turbo.
Then I could drive pork all the time and never have to sully my rear in non-pork cars again.
Neil Haughey
New member
Agreed, on mine I just spun it round perhaps 1 turn with my hands to take up any slack. I doubt I put much torque into it since you can't get enough grip on the bar with your hands. The difference was immediately noticeable when I then took the car out again for a post adjustment drive. Anyone who has an adjustable strut brace can do the same and "feel the difference" as they say.
TBH I just stumbled onto this becasue there wasn't anything with the bar to say it should be pre-loaded either inwards or outwards.
sawood12
New member
There is a chap on a 968 forum who has had some made for his 968 cab. He reckons it has almost irradicated the scuttleshake. However I didn't like his design as it simply bolted onto the end of the castor bolts - i.e. the bolt that attaches the wishbone through the castor mount. I reckon the forces going through the bolt would change your castor angle.
The better ones, like the B&K one that Peter mentioned, actually attach directly to the sub-frame on the car itself where the castor mount attaches therefore raising the castor block up significantly which is why you need a re-alignment after installation.
I thought they were welded, but its a while since I looked at them. I have the KLA brace and just used thin stainless washers. I then later fitted the KLA fixed top mounts. I think the spherical bearings in the top mounts may be knackered though anyone got a set off the car? they dissasemble easily and they should be easy enough to source if I knew the size,
Tony
sawood12
New member
OK then it would mainly affect toe as you'd be deflecting the rear of the wishbone out, however we are talking torsional flexing here so there would be an element that would affect toe. However the principle is the same. The whole point of these braces is to maintain your geometry as the car flexes and I believe that any solution that uses the castor bolt rather than the castor block mounting (as with the B&K solution) will adjust your geomtery. The exception in this case might be if you used solid castor mounts then there is no give in the first place. They are a bit extreme for road use though.
appletonn
New member
Result!
]
By using super thin washers in place of the originals and being very careful with the torque wrench ([8D]), I now have the 2 strut brace brackets fitted and there was just enough thread showing to torque everything down nice and safely - top thread of stud just peeping out over top of nuts once tight...
Phew, that's saved me a lot of faffing around[]
Nick
]By using super thin washers in place of the originals and being very careful with the torque wrench ([8D]), I now have the 2 strut brace brackets fitted and there was just enough thread showing to torque everything down nice and safely - top thread of stud just peeping out over top of nuts once tight...
Phew, that's saved me a lot of faffing around[
]Nick
steve 944t
Member
Good news. If you have already attached the brace and shut the bonnet then dont read any further [:-]
But if you havent, check check and treble check that there is enough clearance when you do shut the bonnet. It really is very tight.
But if you havent, check check and treble check that there is enough clearance when you do shut the bonnet. It really is very tight.
appletonn
New member
Thanks Steve, someone had already flagged that potential issue, earlier in the post (might have been you actually) I think, so I was already extremely nervous about shutting the bonnet and finding that I had created two brand new 'power bulges'...!![&:]
Actually used some BluTack on top of the brackets and gently closed the bonnet and then checked to see if any indentations...!
Thanks again
Actually used some BluTack on top of the brackets and gently closed the bonnet and then checked to see if any indentations...!
Thanks again
Diver944
Active member
I was very sceptical about strut braces, but then I collected a S/H one for Fen and tried it back to back on my car after doing a scientific hooligan test round a local roundabout. The sceptic in me said I would notice no difference, but I could tell that it was fitted and the front end had more grip as I 'pressed on'.
Nowadays I would be more scientific and use my G-Tech accelerometer that can measure later G (but I would need to wear my new anorak at the same time)
Nowadays I would be more scientific and use my G-Tech accelerometer that can measure later G (but I would need to wear my new anorak at the same time
)Neil Haughey
New member
Paul I doubt the strut brace would make much difference to the sorts of G figures likely to be seen on a Gtech screen. The extra sharpness at the front end might improve the instantaneous G readings when the car is chucked about. Average readings are unlikely to change much. For me the main improvement was in how accurately the front of the car tracks through corners.
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
I fear I may risk sending another topic OT, but anyone care to comment about the extra bracing that I believe is to be found in the engine bay of the later turbo's? I've never looked for these when a suitable car has been in front of me, but I've seen pics that show they seem to extend straight ahead from the bulkhead onto the front chassis legs. They're obviously not doing the same job as the strut brace, but clearly Porsche must have found a benefit here too. Next time my engine's out I might look into seeing if it's possible to replicate something similar (assuming it's as basic addition as I think it is).
To bring it back on topic, I too noticed an unsubtle difference just on a roundabout test, this was with the KLA bar. It resulted in an improvement in feel on turn and its ability to track the chosen line.
To bring it back on topic, I too noticed an unsubtle difference just on a roundabout test, this was with the KLA bar. It resulted in an improvement in feel on turn and its ability to track the chosen line.
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