time for a new clutch- advise please!

[nicholaswgmay]

The time is getting closer to me needing to put a new clutch in my 220 turbo, my questions to those who know about this stuff are:

If I am having the clutch done is it worth using an uprated item, I'm planning a dual port wastegate and chip etc upgrade later on in the new year? If so what and from where and how much is it likely to cost??

What else should I think about doing whilst the gearbox is out for the clutch?

As the exhaust has to come off I might put a new one on now too, any experiences of what are good replacements, a bit 'sportier' to go with the above??

What should I be reckoning on this job costing, more than a grand??

All information and experience gratefully received and absorbed!

thanks for your help

Nick

 

[pauljmcnulty]

What else should I think about doing whilst the gearbox is out for the clutch?

Fuel lines? If you're going down the original parts route rather than patching one bit at a time!

 

[Diver944]

I would stick with a standard clutch unless you plan on going significantly over 350bhp. A wastegate and remap will see you around the 280bhp mark and the standard clutch will cope with that easily.


If your existing exhaust is in good nick then a cheap option is to cut out the front silencer and replace with straight pipe. It gives a useful increase in flow without being overly noisy. After that the RPM backbox seems a good performance option on a budget, as is the ESS for around £300 each. Next step up is the Hayward & Scott 3" system at circa £700 and then the Wortec from Promax at £1100 with it's two sound levels (Electric switching is an extra £400 though).

The US options from Speedforce and Fabspeed are a bit pricey now that the pound has crashed against the dollar [&o]

 

[Neil Haughey]

Be prepared for a massive bill!

No seriously when I had my S2 done I got new fuel lines, new brake lines, all rear engine seals, complete clutch job including fork, slave cylinder master cylinder flexi hose, all rear torsion tube mounts and gearbox mount replaced. I had the cambelt and some other stuff done at the same time and ended up with a bill for £4.5K. But it was worth it like a different car afterwards.

On the turbo you may find that various bits of exhaust system need cutting of. I know a few Indies started refusing to do a fixed price on clutch replacement on the turbo for this reason.

 

[Fen]

You will be looking over a grand would be my guess. The 220 Turbo is the worst 944 of all to do the clutch on as it doesn't have the extra join that was added later in the crossover pipe, plus of course it's older so likely to be slightly more corroded.

On the bright side standard stuff is fine and just taking the cat out (or the resonator if the car has no cat) will improve spool-up considerably.

Fuel lines might be worth doing, but if they need doing it will be over the rear axle and replacing the clutch isn't really going near enough to consider yourself "in there already".

 

[sawood12]

One thing worth considering is a lightened flywheel. Definitely on my list when my current clutch gives up the ghost (it has 80k miles on it so far where the first clutch only lasted 40k miles though it still seems to be fine, though i'm very paranoid). I've spotted a nice lobed steel one which reduces the polar moment of inertia of the flywheel so it appears to be lighter than its acutal weight. Not that expensive really, though a little expense on top of a large bill always seems less palatable at the time.

Though the standard clutch is supposed to be pretty robust i've read that early turbo's suffered problems with the small springs failing and falling out and causing problems with the flywheel which sometimes resulted in a new clutch and flywheel to be required. I'm sure this issue was fixed though. I notice from the workshop manual that there are two types of turbo clutch listed - one with three small springs and one with 5. I assume the one with 5 is the later more robust standard.

I'd definately recommend fule lines and maybe brake lines while the trans axel is off unless they've been done during the last decade.

 

[pauly]

ORIGINAL: Neil Haughey

Be prepared for a massive bill!

No seriously when I had my S2 done I got new fuel lines, new brake lines, all rear engine seals, complete clutch job including fork, slave cylinder master cylinder flexi hose, all rear torsion tube mounts and gearbox mount replaced. I had the cambelt and some other stuff done at the same time and ended up with a bill for £4.5K.

Gawd, Looks like I'd be breaking out the overalls when mine needs doing.

 

[Fen]

The transaxle doesn't come off to do the clutch.

 

[rcsalmons]

ORIGINAL: Fen

The transaxle doesn't come off to do the clutch.

Yeah it does - how do you pull the torque tube back? Unless you take the engine/rad out.

Like you say no advantage to do the fuel lines as the torsion bar is not touched - which needs to be lowered for the fuel lines.

Rich

 

[Fen]

It doesn't come out - how can it if the rear beam is still in place? You disconnect enough to let the gearbox swing free on the mount and use the give that allows to get the front of the torque tube ouff the bellhousing, surely?

 

[peanut]

my indie decided to take the engine out on my lux they reckoned it would be easier . Never seen so many bits piled on the roof in the boot and all over the floor in boxes []

 

[rd944]

ORIGINAL: Fen

It doesn't come out - how can it if the rear beam is still in place? You disconnect enough to let the gearbox swing free on the mount and use the give that allows to get the front of the torque tube ouff the bellhousing, surely?

aye ! and exactly why my 944's got a dent in the spare wheel well

 

[pauljmcnulty]

Fuel lines might be worth doing, but if they need doing it will be over the rear axle and replacing the clutch isn't really going near enough to consider yourself "in there already".

Interesting, and whether right or wrong, an indie near me (that I don't use) do a clutch for parts-only cost if you're having the fuel lines replaced...but then they charge so much that they could probably throw in a couple of cills and a re-spray as well! [&:]

 

[Fen]

But do they offer fuel lines for the cost of parts when if clutch is being done?

If you're taking off the rear beam and dropping the gearbox loose onto its mount so you can do the fuel and brake lines (which is how we did mine) then the clutch is minimal extra as it's not a lot more than the bellhousing bolts. The fuel line disassembly is more work than the minimum clutch disassembly.

 

[Big Dave]

Flippin heck.
Im glad ive got a 968 now. No more messing around removing gearboxes.As and when i need to change the clutch....[][]
Fen.
Thats ONE good reason to get a 968....[][][][][]

 

[Fen]

Perhaps it is - remind me how is it different as it rings a bell but I can't remember the specifics?

 

[pauly]

ORIGINAL: Fen

Perhaps it is - remind me how is it different as it rings a bell but I can't remember the specifics?

I was told you remove a plate on the bellhousing to access the clutch on the 968.

 

[Fen]

Can you get it off the end of the torque tube through the access plate?

 

[pauly]

ORIGINAL: Fen

Can you get it off the end of the torque tube through the access plate?

Sorry I don't know, the indy that told me was trying to sell me a 968 at the time.

 

[rd944]

ORIGINAL: Fen

Can you get it off the end of the torque tube through the access plate?

yes

http://www.968turbo.com/clutch.htm