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time for a new clutch- advise please!

ORIGINAL: Fen

But do they offer fuel lines for the cost of parts when if clutch is being done?

If you're taking off the rear beam and dropping the gearbox loose onto its mount so you can do the fuel and brake lines (which is how we did mine) then the clutch is minimal extra as it's not a lot more than the bellhousing bolts. The fuel line disassembly is more work than the minimum clutch disassembly.
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Ahhh, once again Mr Coull spots my deliberate mistake....[&o]

I haven't a clue if they offer the fuel lines with clutch package, it's clutch with fuel lines that I was thinking of. As they charge nearly £600 for parts-only on a Lux clutch I guess there's some element of profit in there too...[8|]


 
Clutch is something I have pencilled in for February on my S2 ... is there a detailed write-up of the procedure anywhere for DIY'ers?

I'll confess it's not something I am looking forward to ...


Oli.
 
Fen.
Clutch on a 968 is dead easy.Ive done it twice.... No removing of gearboxes , torque tubes etc etc etc..
There is a connection that unbolts + slides back out of the way on the TT...After removing an access plate on the side of the bellhousing....
I guess you dont know everything then.???[;)][8|][;)][8|][:D][:D]
 
ORIGINAL: Fen

It doesn't come out - how can it if the rear beam is still in place? You disconnect enough to let the gearbox swing free on the mount and use the give that allows to get the front of the torque tube ouff the bellhousing, surely?
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Took my transaxle out with the rear beam in place, would have needed quite a large dent in the spare wheel well otherwise. torque tube probably wont come fully out without dropping the beam, but transaxle will you have to disconnect driveshafts and fuel filter / pump) and gearbox cooler

Tony
 
ORIGINAL: Fen

It doesn't come out - how can it if the rear beam is still in place? You disconnect enough to let the gearbox swing free on the mount and use the give that allows to get the front of the torque tube ouff the bellhousing, surely?
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Sorry Fen it must - you need to move the torque tube back a good 6 inches.

It comes out fine with rear beam in place.

Rich
 
Well, I haven't done the job myself so I have to bow to others who have. I find it very hard to believe though as when my car was on a ramp with neither engine nor rear beam in place my indie still struggled the fuel lines over the gearbox onto the tank connections rather than drop the 'box off, and I was there when he did it so I know that is 100% correct.

Dave, can't say I do know everything, and as I haven't claimed to it must just look like there isn't much I don't know [;)]. I still don't think that it's worth paying double the cost of a good S2 for a 968 because it's easier to change the clutch.
 

ORIGINAL: Fen
Dave, can't say I do know everything, and as I haven't claimed to it must just look like there isn't much I don't know [;)]. I still don't think that it's worth paying double the cost of a good S2 for a 968 because it's easier to change the clutch.
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Agreed, there are all sorts of strengths and disadvantages on both. My 968 which is only 2 years newer then my S2 for example has a rear fuel line which is rotted out. The good news is its only a 6" hose that needs replacing whereas on my S2 I had to replace the fuel lines for the whole length of the car. Similar story with the door sills. Looking underneath both cars one sees similar amounts of corrosion but on the S2 the sills and the bottom corners of all the arches need repairs due to IMHO the design flaws on the 944 in those areas which the 968 doesn't seem to suffer from (they will rot out though its just we haven't heard much of this yet, but give it time).

On the clutch doesn't the 968 have the mega costly problem of a dual mass flywheel?

Ultimately though I feel a big deciding factor is looks, if you prefer the look of the 68 (as I do) then I believe eventually you will want one instead of an S2. The higher purchase cost is offset by better residuals as is often the case and I have little doubt this trend will stay due to the rarity of all 968's, simple supply and demand really.

 
Sorry Fen, another dissenting voice. Having changed the clutch on my S2 I can confirm that Rich is correct, the 944 gearbox needs to comes out to do the clutch (unless you remove the engine). The rear beam traps the torque tube not the gearbox. You remove the gearbox and then slide the torque tube rearwards while it rests on top of the rear beam. This then gives access to the clutch.
 
ORIGINAL: zcacogp

Clutch is something I have pencilled in for February on my S2 ... is there a detailed write-up of the procedure anywhere for DIY'ers?
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Hi Oli, when I I helped Tony do his we used the guide on Clarks Garage.

May I suggest you don't want to be doing it on the street [:eek:]
 
Paul,

Thanks - that was what I was planning to use. And the Porsche manuals from Rick's site.

It won't be done on the street - I'm borrowing a friend's (heated!) garage, with a pit. It will be bliss!


Oli.
 
ORIGINAL: 944Turbo

It might be possible to leave the box in the if the rear beam is dropped?
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Are we still talking about clutch changing or have we moved on to fuel lines????

Surely you can't pull the Torque tube back enough if the gearbox is left in, no matter if the rear suspension beam is there or not.
 
Was thinking clutch changing, if the beam was out you might be able to drop the torque tube rather than having to slide it alll the way back, you might not but Fen is usually accurate of memory [;)]. Would be a very long winded way to get the clutch out anyway - I would rather drop the transaxle than the beam.
Tony
 
Gearbox can be moved back approx 1 inch before hitting spare wheel well. You need at least 6 inches to remove torque tube from clutch cover or gbox housing.
Unless you take the engine out the gbox must be removed.

Worst bit about doing the clutch on 944's is the 4 bolts holding the clutch cover on and the removing the flywheel sensor housing.

Rich
 
My memory is accurate for the fuel line replacement, but the engine and beam were out at the time; the engine was on a stand part built and I was painting the beam while Andy was fitting the fuel lines. What I don't remember is ahy he didn't want to drop the gearbox to get access to the tank, but I think I asked.

I haven't been involved in replacing the clutch on a car that wasn't already in bits.
 
ORIGINAL: zcacogp

Paul,

Thanks - that was what I was planning to use. And the Porsche manuals from Rick's site.

It won't be done on the street - I'm borrowing a friend's (heated!) garage, with a pit. It will be bliss!


Oli.
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come come Oli ,bliss would be, .........sitting in your nice warm garage watching someone else do your clutch [:D] hope you do a photo record to scare the bejeesus out of the rest of us.

Might be worth painting all your brake and fuel lines with waxoil or something whilst you are under there. The previous owner of my S2 has done this. Now I know why [:(]
 
Nick,

Nah - bliss would be having the cash to have the whole job done by my favourite indy, and something nice as a hire car to rag around while it's being done!

(Snag is, favourite indy described it as "a monster of a job" when I discussed it with him, and suggested I wouldn't be getting much change from a one-er if I was to ask him to do it.)

Yes, tub of waxoyl (or similar) will be on hand. Along with a new clutch and a bag of bits I am likely to brake. And a decent toolkit and a good friend. I hope ...

And, yes, I will do a full photorecord of the job. I fear it will be very frightening. Did I say I wasn't looking forward to it? [:eek:]


Oli.
 
Ha Ha your indie obviously has done one before.[:D][:D]
Mine hadn't but I bet I couldn't persuade him to do another clutch now he has done one[:D][:D][:D]

don't worry oli you'll have 50 armchair mechanics here waiting to give you advice and support
 
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