What can cause rich idling?
- Thread starter scam75
- Start date
lacedr
New member
I meant to say that it is on 10 at tick over, it does move when driving.
From cold the car has to be kept reving for a while before it will tickover, it has been like that since I purchased the car the op told me it only just started to do it.
The car has emerald ecu a map and a maf.
Any ideas what it could be ?
From cold the car has to be kept reving for a while before it will tickover, it has been like that since I purchased the car the op told me it only just started to do it.
The car has emerald ecu a map and a maf.
Any ideas what it could be ?
scam75
Well-known member
My car was high 10's/low 11's at warm idle due to my control box for MAF misbehaving. You obviously have different ecu and set up but it seems far too rich at idle. Run it into your local mot place first get them to check co at warm idle. That will confirm if the reading of 10 is true. I would expect co to be over 10% at that AFR. Then you could have any number of issues. Start by verifying your AFR reading and get back to us. Do you know if your current map is good? Don't know much about emerald I'm afraid. Though somebody on here used to run one and was almost always tinkering in the search of perfection. Get a 4 gas analyser on it at mot place and post the results.
Stuart
Stuart
ChasR
New member
IIRC Lacedr's ECU has yet to be setup. Assuming he can sort out any vacuum leaks (if they are present) etc. I reckon mapping the ECU would probably help quite a way.
Lacedr, you do know that the Emerald software is available for free, and thus can adjust certain parameters that way? For me, it aided in ruling out certain issues on another Emerald ECU'd car (in that case, it was as simple as a poor connection). Did you get the Emerald cable (a USB to Serial item) to work with it? Another generic cable will not work (and may cause damage) due to the pins on the Emerald items being switched about.
Lacedr, you do know that the Emerald software is available for free, and thus can adjust certain parameters that way? For me, it aided in ruling out certain issues on another Emerald ECU'd car (in that case, it was as simple as a poor connection). Did you get the Emerald cable (a USB to Serial item) to work with it? Another generic cable will not work (and may cause damage) due to the pins on the Emerald items being switched about.
lacedr
New member
Thanks for the replies.
The car is not on the road at the moment,so unable to take anywhere.
chas,
I do have the software and lead but do not want to play too much with it as I do not really know too much about it.
I have a standard map set up from emerald and one that came with the car.
Update: I think I may have found the fault,the wire that goes to the temperature send was a bit bare, now repaired got to start the car up and see fingers crossed.
Cheers
Dave
The car is not on the road at the moment,so unable to take anywhere.
chas,
I do have the software and lead but do not want to play too much with it as I do not really know too much about it.
I have a standard map set up from emerald and one that came with the car.
Update: I think I may have found the fault,the wire that goes to the temperature send was a bit bare, now repaired got to start the car up and see fingers crossed.
Cheers
Dave
scam75
Well-known member
Ok cool. I have no idea about setting up your emerald so will take no further part in your journey!!
Update on my own car, had been getting about 75 miles to 30 quid of petrol before my fault was cured, I have just got 100 miles there from 30 quid. All still good with AFR's and clearly my car was very rich throughout the rev range whereas I was seemingly just chasing an idle fault to begin with. I am learning more about AFR's all the time and I can say without hesitation that an AFR gauge is your best friend on a turbo car with even a hint of mods and altered boost from stock! Quite fancy one superimposed on the windscreen though as I spend more time looking at my boost/afr gauges in my cubby hole beneath stereo than I do on the road lol!
Stuart
Update on my own car, had been getting about 75 miles to 30 quid of petrol before my fault was cured, I have just got 100 miles there from 30 quid. All still good with AFR's and clearly my car was very rich throughout the rev range whereas I was seemingly just chasing an idle fault to begin with. I am learning more about AFR's all the time and I can say without hesitation that an AFR gauge is your best friend on a turbo car with even a hint of mods and altered boost from stock! Quite fancy one superimposed on the windscreen though as I spend more time looking at my boost/afr gauges in my cubby hole beneath stereo than I do on the road lol!
Stuart
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