944 Turbo S Engine Rebuild Thread
- Thread starter Eldavo
- Start date
Not a huge amount to report recently but I’ve been chasing a small but annoying oil leak from the lower front of the engine.
I "think” i’ve isolated it to the seal on the front of the balance shaft housing. Rather than completely strip down the front of the engine I was able to study my spare engine and worked out that if I removed a square 1/2” of the rear belt housing I could remove the 3 bolts in situ and pull the housing out enough to clean and reseal it.
Managed to remove the belt covers, balance belt and lower rollers all from below and got the housing off ready to clean up and reseal another day. Will remove the orange over-splurge and run a bead of sealant round the rubber seal before reassembling. Not going to lie - it’s much easier and nicer working on a clean engine!
I "think” i’ve isolated it to the seal on the front of the balance shaft housing. Rather than completely strip down the front of the engine I was able to study my spare engine and worked out that if I removed a square 1/2” of the rear belt housing I could remove the 3 bolts in situ and pull the housing out enough to clean and reseal it.
Managed to remove the belt covers, balance belt and lower rollers all from below and got the housing off ready to clean up and reseal another day. Will remove the orange over-splurge and run a bead of sealant round the rubber seal before reassembling. Not going to lie - it’s much easier and nicer working on a clean engine!
Dan944t
New member
Hi David,…
crazy you say this,…as you know i got my twin scroll hx35 build up and finally running the other night ,…all seems well other than a pesky tiny oil drip also from sam area which i thought was the corners of my front sump gasket,…but on further cleaning and checking over as you do for any water leaks ect ,….i found a poxy drip of the oil coming not the front sump corner gasket area but what seems to be through one of the oil pump 10mm nuts !! gutting but i am now gonna have to make a flywheel lock as they are out of stock in most places , and i’m gonna have to strip down all the pulleys belts e just to get the back cover off and **** drop t he sump to remove the pump ? unless i could get away with a bit of copper gasket seal under and around the nut it’s seaping out of ?
but at that point may aswell remove the whole pump and reseal ,…must have not applied enough 547 and just creaping theoygh a hairline gap?
i do wonder weather it would be better to seal with orange copper gasket seal instead ??
crazy you say this,…as you know i got my twin scroll hx35 build up and finally running the other night ,…all seems well other than a pesky tiny oil drip also from sam area which i thought was the corners of my front sump gasket,…but on further cleaning and checking over as you do for any water leaks ect ,….i found a poxy drip of the oil coming not the front sump corner gasket area but what seems to be through one of the oil pump 10mm nuts !! gutting but i am now gonna have to make a flywheel lock as they are out of stock in most places , and i’m gonna have to strip down all the pulleys belts e just to get the back cover off and **** drop t he sump to remove the pump ? unless i could get away with a bit of copper gasket seal under and around the nut it’s seaping out of ?
but at that point may aswell remove the whole pump and reseal ,…must have not applied enough 547 and just creaping theoygh a hairline gap?
i do wonder weather it would be better to seal with orange copper gasket seal instead ??
blade7 said:
Pretty sure on my 2.7 the PO had made 2 cuts in the top edge that let you bend it past the top balance sprocket to remove the water pump.
Cleaned all the area up now, will seal it and refit it - if it’s still leaking after All this then I’m zip tieing a sponge into the undertray! It was literally one or two drops beforehand so hopefully this will sort it once and for all.
Dan944t
New member
what are yr thoughts on using a copper gasket sealer instead of 574?
im wondering if the 574 locktite is recommended becuase the excess may get melted away ? seems very thin to me and that’s what i used on the engine buikd by the book but obviously not quite enough ,… wondering weather to change to use orange copper gasket sealer on the oil pump surfaces this time ?
mines also an annoying little drip but now i know i have to seal it [
]
im wondering if the 574 locktite is recommended becuase the excess may get melted away ? seems very thin to me and that’s what i used on the engine buikd by the book but obviously not quite enough ,… wondering weather to change to use orange copper gasket sealer on the oil pump surfaces this time ?
mines also an annoying little drip but now i know i have to seal it [
]
Dan944t
New member
blade7 said:
im using Valvaline racing 20 w 50
i think i may have fixed it tonight ,.. found the bolt in question which is the one closest to the middle of the pump it kept turning when i tried nipping it up,…so managed to remove the x2 holding the bottom back cover through the pump into the block which gave me access just to get a long 10 mm spanner up the rear and try nipping them all up ( i went by the book on torque specs at the time )
managed to wiggle it out withought remooving cam belt and i noticed there was about 3 mm of ally remooved on the very end of the bolt ,… tried researching the bolt lenghs as i remember them being maybe 3 /4 different lenghs ? 35/40/45/50 i think? maybe only 3? …. anyhow this was a 40 , so i looked through my spares and found a 45mm , in hope it would bit into the rest withought bottoming out , and it did ,…nipped up , cleaned with brake cleaner and run the car through 6 heat cycles one after the other ,…and so far not single drop from it ….
could be that when the engine sat on the stand when i was rebuilding, that perticular bolt never bit enough and could have ripped away that tiny 3 mms worth of thread after i had torqued it to spec,…but the 547 sealant went off in time but maybe somthing like a weeny 0.2 gap was left in that area and it found it’s way out as the bolt had ripped away and wasn’t squeezing the two mating set faces tight enough in that small area under preasure the hot thinning oil found it’s way out the bolt head and down.
we will see for sure tommorow once i get a few fresh jerry cans of fuel and i will run it for maybe 10 heat cycles with some revs inbetween ….. it found its way out this morning with only 2 heat cycles so i’m feeling hopefull
sorry if it seems i’ve hi jacked your thread David ,…feel free to delete mate , just thought i’d mension it as it was ironic it’s just happened to me also ,….
Daniel
Feels like 2 steps forward and one step back at the moment but I don’t want to be chasing niggles or want them all sorted up front.
Was getting a bit of popping from the exhaust on hot idle and my tuner suggested looking for an air leak. Borrowed a smoke tester from my Indy’s this morning, rigged it up to the compressor and a handy 12v from the jump point on the scuttle to find a leak from under the inlet manifold gasket on cylinders 1 & 4 along with some telltale oil and blowby.
Whipped the fuel rail and manifold off and it looks like it’s slightly off true so dropping it off tomorrow to get skimmed and will get a thicker and better gasket stamped out by DanST Engineering too.
In better news I found out why my temperature gauge on the dash wasn’t working as the wire was snapped and only held in place by the insulation - crimped a new insulated plug on and I’ll take that as a little win.
Although this looks like chaos it’s only half an hour’s work either way - everyone should have a go at working on their cars.
Was getting a bit of popping from the exhaust on hot idle and my tuner suggested looking for an air leak. Borrowed a smoke tester from my Indy’s this morning, rigged it up to the compressor and a handy 12v from the jump point on the scuttle to find a leak from under the inlet manifold gasket on cylinders 1 & 4 along with some telltale oil and blowby.
Whipped the fuel rail and manifold off and it looks like it’s slightly off true so dropping it off tomorrow to get skimmed and will get a thicker and better gasket stamped out by DanST Engineering too.
In better news I found out why my temperature gauge on the dash wasn’t working as the wire was snapped and only held in place by the insulation - crimped a new insulated plug on and I’ll take that as a little win.
Although this looks like chaos it’s only half an hour’s work either way - everyone should have a go at working on their cars.
If I won big then my cars would never go out of warranty
Dropped the inlet manifold off first thing this morning and they put a certified straight edge along it (who knew that was a thing), out of true on 1 & 4 as suspected. Will be sorted today and will refit with a standard gasket for now and see how I get on.
Dropped the inlet manifold off first thing this morning and they put a certified straight edge along it (who knew that was a thing), out of true on 1 & 4 as suspected. Will be sorted today and will refit with a standard gasket for now and see how I get on.
Dan944t said:
Well done on sorting the oil leaks both!
Thom's build & install is mentioned in his topic over here (but only the last few posts as 16V)
https://www.porscheclubgb...?m=389737&mpage=38
Tony
Dan944t
New member
944Turbo said:
many thanks for this link i will enjoy reading about it.
and thanks ,… sure is a massive relief i won’t have to do all that work to reseal pump!
on to the fuel lines now then installing stand alone ect before big tune day !
David i like to use a smear of orange copper seal gasket maker ,… if it’s flat it will squash out,.. if not will take up any imperfections…. it makes me feel better
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