This thread caught my eye as something interesting. Rather than mentioning "carbon" I will refer to "deposits" because in the ports and combustion chambers you get two types of deposit, carbon, which will be incompletely spent hydrocarbons (from oil or fuel) and hydrocarbon free by-products, which typically are mineral based remnants of combustion. deposits with remaining hydrocarbons, such as oil tar, sludge, or varnish like deposits can burn off, and are typically what you might find on the back of an intake valve as seen above, or the soot in a combustion chamber. These types of deposit can often be burnt off in a combustion chamber with a hard drive, or as it used to be called an "Italian tune up" as long as the engine is running correctly. The valve above looks to be one suffering from valve guide wear or a poor stem seal, which is causing oil to become burnt onto the back of a valve, these kinds of deposits are hard to remove, but will typically only occur from a fault. Removal can be successful though through different methods, but not guaranteed, as it is the hardest type of deposit to remove, as there is only the fuel from the injectors to wash to valve and no combustion to burn off these deposits. Soot and oil tar that may become deposited inside the combustion chamber can burn off if the car is running properly during hard use, as the remaining hydrocarbons will burn. However due to the relatively cool nature of pistons, bores and combustion chamber in the head, relative to the temperature of the flame front, there is always a boundary layer which prevents the burn going all the way to the piston crown, rings and combustion chamber, so some deposits will remain, typically to a depth of less than 0.5mm. Then you have the remnants from combustion which are completely spent or without hydrocarbons remaining. These are often a mineral based build-up a little like lime-scale in a kettle, and are a combination of minerals from impurities in the fuel among many other compounds. These will not burn of, because they contain no fuel to burn. One place that carbon will not burn off is around the piston rings, where deposits collect, the flame front does not reach, and eventually these can cause the piston rings to no longer move freely and combustion pressure is unable to get around the ring to spread it as designed, which then leads onto compression being gradually lost, oil to soak into the deposits, some of which will turn into a tar like deposit.. These deposits will not burn off with hard use and the problem can only ever get worse. One of the benefits of a good engine flush during servicing is that the chemicals in the flush will help break down deposits everywhere the oil reaches, which can include the lower piston ring lands, and to an extent the compression piston ring, which can help the oil control rings reduce oil reaching the compression ring, as well removing some deposits above the oil control ring.. But will not be able to remove deposits elsewhere and including the compression ring and its ring groove or land. Some people say, what is the point of an engine flush, does XYZ engine oil not contain every additive possible to remove these deposits? No, these chemicals tend to be quite aggressive and if included in fresh engine oil would break down some of the beneficial molecular construction of the engine oil and its additive package, not only this, but it would also reduce in potency as these chemicals tend to be solvents that will evaporate quite quickly within the engine over the course of half an hour to an hour at running temperature... The other problem is that if oil manufacturers included these compounds the engine oil would become dirty very quickly, so it is not in their interests to include them. Fully synthetics, especially virgin synthetic oil bases will help prevent oil tar build up and may even help it be removed to an extent. We have always found engines that had been running mobil-1 oils such as the old 15w50 motor-sport oil, to be very clean inside when stripped for repairs, rebuilds etc... more so than cars that had run on any other engine oil, even if it was just the last fills of oil which were Mobil. So, how can these deposits be removed without a complete engine strip-down? Back in the old days, a mechanic could use several items at their disposal, ATF and Diesel used to be used as an engine flush into the old engine oil, which both do a good job of breaking down sludge, with different mechanics back then having their own preferred cocktails of these fluids. Again, these would only ever be as good as an engine flush today from someone like Forte, and possibly not as good. Today, companies like Forte also recommend that for heavily coked up piston rings, it is worth putting engine flush down the bores over night and letting it soak into the carbon, before removing the excess the next morning and running the engine. In the old days mechanics used to do the same with their "cocktails" or even products like Red-X, which can recover an engine which could be condemned as having worn out rings due to wear, which was actually down to piston rings which can no longer freely float due to deposits on the rings and in their grooves. What happens when you do this is that the fluid soaks into the deposits, dissolving the oil and tar, and softening the mineral based deposits, so that they partially or mostly burn off when the engine next starts, often in a big puff of smoke. Then there is the other deposits, on the piston crown, combustion chamber etc, which if less than 0.5mm thick are beneficial, but if allowed to be thicker than that, can cause hot spots as the deposits glow during combustion, leading to pre-ignition or uncontrolled combustion. How should these be removed? Some fuel additives advertise that they can reduce these deposits, and many of them do, very slowly in some cases, depending on how bad the deposits are and what quantities of fuel additives you are happy to use. Red-x back in the day was often used for this, and really did help.. But only as much as a very simple compound does, which is water! If you were to introduce water to combustion, it turns to steam very quickly, which in turn is very effective in removing both hydrocarbon based deposits (tar, soot etc) as well as non hydrocarbon based deposits, even if mineral based. Ever noticed that an engine with a blown head gasket will sometimes have a polished and very clean looking cylinder and combustion chamber? it is the same effect. Back in the says of carbs instead of injection, spraying water from a atomiser spray into the carb while the engine was running would often generate white smoke from the exhaust and clean carbon from the combustion chamber and exhaust port very effectively. The only problem is water does not mix with fuel, so you can't go putting it into your tank, but also it is corrosive. However, water mixes with acetone, and acetone mixes with fuel, so an acetone water mix can be added to a fuel tank, and this is what many products over the years have effectively been, perhaps also with a red dye
the only problem is, I realised many years ago, if you leave fuel system parts soaking in these fuel additives that are water acetone based, they corrode, so again, possibly not the end of the world in small quantities in your fuel tank, but large or regular use of the additives could cause corrosion in the fuel system. Now back to the point, the original poster had his car connected to a machine, which gave him some good results from a drivers perspective, and I might be one of the few people here who actually believes that this machine has removed carbon, probably has improved the seal of his piston rings and will have improved performance. In years gone by, I used to have a little rig I made, which included a electric fuel pump, a 5 litre fuel tank and hoses with various fittings on the ends to hook up to various Porsche fuel injection systems. I used to fill this machine with a mixture of acetone, water and fuel, hook it up-to the fuel rail on the donor vehicle, connect the fuel pump to the cars battery with some alligator clips and start the engine and let it run for half an hour, just like the original poster described with this much more polished machine. If a car had a large amount of deposit build up, there would be more smoke from the exhaust, if deposits we not heavy, often the smoke was less form the tailpipe. You could often see the machine working by the amount of smoke from the exhaust. We used to use it especially on vehicles which either had spent years doing short journeys and seemed to be down on power, or on cars where the engine was smoking or lacking in compression... With cars which were heavily suffering from deposits, the car would run much better afterwards, where no improvement was found we would look deeper into the engine and either find a more serious fault, but would be presented with a very clean engine within the combustion chambers. I suspect that the original posters experience was with a very similar machine, probably running what used to be a very well known mixture of acetone and water. As a side note, water injection systems also have the benefit of removing deposits from an engine, as well as increasing the performance of the engine, but that is another subject. Years ago we had to stop using our rig for doing this, as it was a piece of equipment that our insurance company were extremely unhappy about, which is understandable really, highly pressurised fuel in a home made construction without BS or CE markings and no manufacturer for the insurance company to sue if something went wrong.. So now we use forte products, either their engine flush down the bores, gas treatment or injector cleaner into the tank etc.. they work great, but not a patch on the "old rig". I think the problem with the manufacturer of this machine is that they charge the earth for their own magical fluid/fuel, which is a big part of their revenue stream, so they do not want to be as frank as I have been here, but maybe if you now re-read their website following what I have written, you might actually see through some of the marketing, but in effect, it is a good machine, insurance companies are happy with them, and they work. But if they were to say they run on acetone and water, there is a good chance that garages would use their own cocktails and that their sales of the fluid would go down to zero... not only this but some customers would be shocked at the idea of water being fed through their fuel systems and engines! There you go.. A bit longer than I expected.. Just my take on the original posters experience and why I believe 100% that his experience is not all in his head.