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Engine Decarbonising

I've heard of similar products and seen the results first hand in a 200,000 mile diesel passat. I'm still a bit dubious about it. Thanks to work I have a mentality that if it's not been tested on 10 engines doing 1000 hours each, then I don't trust it! It sounds like that sort of validation has effectively already been done through customer engines, but the (apparent) lack of real data puts me off.
 
[link=http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/44571-comparison-fuel-oil-engine-additives.html]this[/link] is a very interesting thread about a TATA Safari (i think). The owner tried dozens of fuel additives/oil additives/flushes etc. and stripped his engine down to see the result...
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I know its not the same as the product talked about in this thread, but it does illustrate how rubbish all of these products are.
 
That does look pretty nasty, perhaps caused by all the crap itself he put in there? I can only go by what my dyno butt tells me, the changes I've seen do add up towards there being a tangible improvement being made. I'm no engineer or chemist but I am a professional driver through my work and I believe what is being seen, felt and heard goes beyond any effects due to placebo. If the changes were more subtle then perhaps this could be an issue but every time I now drive the car I can feel the difference without thinking about it. Equally I wouldn't want other forum users taking this on and wasting Ă‚ÂŁ100 on a treatment that doesn't work so I have to be fairly confident that its made an improvement and I am sure that it has. Having said that, engines differ, the mechanic who carried out the treatment told me they tend to get very little improvement with low mileage (-30K) cars. The apparent pseudo science doesn't help thats for sure, perhaps they have just found an effective way of cleaning the injectors without removal and want to confuse would be competition from replication. Or perhaps they really are electrically charging the petrol treatment[8|], I have no idea. If it was possible and safe to double the benefits gained by repeating the process I would happily pay another Ă‚ÂŁ100, although I'm less enthusiastic to discover one treatment was enough after doing so[;)]. For the time being I'm enjoying the car more and I cant complain about that. Edd
 
This thread caught my eye as something interesting. Rather than mentioning "carbon" I will refer to "deposits" because in the ports and combustion chambers you get two types of deposit, carbon, which will be incompletely spent hydrocarbons (from oil or fuel) and hydrocarbon free by-products, which typically are mineral based remnants of combustion. deposits with remaining hydrocarbons, such as oil tar, sludge, or varnish like deposits can burn off, and are typically what you might find on the back of an intake valve as seen above, or the soot in a combustion chamber. These types of deposit can often be burnt off in a combustion chamber with a hard drive, or as it used to be called an "Italian tune up" as long as the engine is running correctly. The valve above looks to be one suffering from valve guide wear or a poor stem seal, which is causing oil to become burnt onto the back of a valve, these kinds of deposits are hard to remove, but will typically only occur from a fault. Removal can be successful though through different methods, but not guaranteed, as it is the hardest type of deposit to remove, as there is only the fuel from the injectors to wash to valve and no combustion to burn off these deposits. Soot and oil tar that may become deposited inside the combustion chamber can burn off if the car is running properly during hard use, as the remaining hydrocarbons will burn. However due to the relatively cool nature of pistons, bores and combustion chamber in the head, relative to the temperature of the flame front, there is always a boundary layer which prevents the burn going all the way to the piston crown, rings and combustion chamber, so some deposits will remain, typically to a depth of less than 0.5mm. Then you have the remnants from combustion which are completely spent or without hydrocarbons remaining. These are often a mineral based build-up a little like lime-scale in a kettle, and are a combination of minerals from impurities in the fuel among many other compounds. These will not burn of, because they contain no fuel to burn. One place that carbon will not burn off is around the piston rings, where deposits collect, the flame front does not reach, and eventually these can cause the piston rings to no longer move freely and combustion pressure is unable to get around the ring to spread it as designed, which then leads onto compression being gradually lost, oil to soak into the deposits, some of which will turn into a tar like deposit.. These deposits will not burn off with hard use and the problem can only ever get worse. One of the benefits of a good engine flush during servicing is that the chemicals in the flush will help break down deposits everywhere the oil reaches, which can include the lower piston ring lands, and to an extent the compression piston ring, which can help the oil control rings reduce oil reaching the compression ring, as well removing some deposits above the oil control ring.. But will not be able to remove deposits elsewhere and including the compression ring and its ring groove or land. Some people say, what is the point of an engine flush, does XYZ engine oil not contain every additive possible to remove these deposits? No, these chemicals tend to be quite aggressive and if included in fresh engine oil would break down some of the beneficial molecular construction of the engine oil and its additive package, not only this, but it would also reduce in potency as these chemicals tend to be solvents that will evaporate quite quickly within the engine over the course of half an hour to an hour at running temperature... The other problem is that if oil manufacturers included these compounds the engine oil would become dirty very quickly, so it is not in their interests to include them. Fully synthetics, especially virgin synthetic oil bases will help prevent oil tar build up and may even help it be removed to an extent. We have always found engines that had been running mobil-1 oils such as the old 15w50 motor-sport oil, to be very clean inside when stripped for repairs, rebuilds etc... more so than cars that had run on any other engine oil, even if it was just the last fills of oil which were Mobil. So, how can these deposits be removed without a complete engine strip-down? Back in the old days, a mechanic could use several items at their disposal, ATF and Diesel used to be used as an engine flush into the old engine oil, which both do a good job of breaking down sludge, with different mechanics back then having their own preferred cocktails of these fluids. Again, these would only ever be as good as an engine flush today from someone like Forte, and possibly not as good. Today, companies like Forte also recommend that for heavily coked up piston rings, it is worth putting engine flush down the bores over night and letting it soak into the carbon, before removing the excess the next morning and running the engine. In the old days mechanics used to do the same with their "cocktails" or even products like Red-X, which can recover an engine which could be condemned as having worn out rings due to wear, which was actually down to piston rings which can no longer freely float due to deposits on the rings and in their grooves. What happens when you do this is that the fluid soaks into the deposits, dissolving the oil and tar, and softening the mineral based deposits, so that they partially or mostly burn off when the engine next starts, often in a big puff of smoke. Then there is the other deposits, on the piston crown, combustion chamber etc, which if less than 0.5mm thick are beneficial, but if allowed to be thicker than that, can cause hot spots as the deposits glow during combustion, leading to pre-ignition or uncontrolled combustion. How should these be removed? Some fuel additives advertise that they can reduce these deposits, and many of them do, very slowly in some cases, depending on how bad the deposits are and what quantities of fuel additives you are happy to use. Red-x back in the day was often used for this, and really did help.. But only as much as a very simple compound does, which is water! If you were to introduce water to combustion, it turns to steam very quickly, which in turn is very effective in removing both hydrocarbon based deposits (tar, soot etc) as well as non hydrocarbon based deposits, even if mineral based. Ever noticed that an engine with a blown head gasket will sometimes have a polished and very clean looking cylinder and combustion chamber? it is the same effect. Back in the says of carbs instead of injection, spraying water from a atomiser spray into the carb while the engine was running would often generate white smoke from the exhaust and clean carbon from the combustion chamber and exhaust port very effectively. The only problem is water does not mix with fuel, so you can't go putting it into your tank, but also it is corrosive. However, water mixes with acetone, and acetone mixes with fuel, so an acetone water mix can be added to a fuel tank, and this is what many products over the years have effectively been, perhaps also with a red dye :) the only problem is, I realised many years ago, if you leave fuel system parts soaking in these fuel additives that are water acetone based, they corrode, so again, possibly not the end of the world in small quantities in your fuel tank, but large or regular use of the additives could cause corrosion in the fuel system. Now back to the point, the original poster had his car connected to a machine, which gave him some good results from a drivers perspective, and I might be one of the few people here who actually believes that this machine has removed carbon, probably has improved the seal of his piston rings and will have improved performance. In years gone by, I used to have a little rig I made, which included a electric fuel pump, a 5 litre fuel tank and hoses with various fittings on the ends to hook up to various Porsche fuel injection systems. I used to fill this machine with a mixture of acetone, water and fuel, hook it up-to the fuel rail on the donor vehicle, connect the fuel pump to the cars battery with some alligator clips and start the engine and let it run for half an hour, just like the original poster described with this much more polished machine. If a car had a large amount of deposit build up, there would be more smoke from the exhaust, if deposits we not heavy, often the smoke was less form the tailpipe. You could often see the machine working by the amount of smoke from the exhaust. We used to use it especially on vehicles which either had spent years doing short journeys and seemed to be down on power, or on cars where the engine was smoking or lacking in compression... With cars which were heavily suffering from deposits, the car would run much better afterwards, where no improvement was found we would look deeper into the engine and either find a more serious fault, but would be presented with a very clean engine within the combustion chambers. I suspect that the original posters experience was with a very similar machine, probably running what used to be a very well known mixture of acetone and water. As a side note, water injection systems also have the benefit of removing deposits from an engine, as well as increasing the performance of the engine, but that is another subject. Years ago we had to stop using our rig for doing this, as it was a piece of equipment that our insurance company were extremely unhappy about, which is understandable really, highly pressurised fuel in a home made construction without BS or CE markings and no manufacturer for the insurance company to sue if something went wrong.. So now we use forte products, either their engine flush down the bores, gas treatment or injector cleaner into the tank etc.. they work great, but not a patch on the "old rig". I think the problem with the manufacturer of this machine is that they charge the earth for their own magical fluid/fuel, which is a big part of their revenue stream, so they do not want to be as frank as I have been here, but maybe if you now re-read their website following what I have written, you might actually see through some of the marketing, but in effect, it is a good machine, insurance companies are happy with them, and they work. But if they were to say they run on acetone and water, there is a good chance that garages would use their own cocktails and that their sales of the fluid would go down to zero... not only this but some customers would be shocked at the idea of water being fed through their fuel systems and engines! There you go.. A bit longer than I expected.. Just my take on the original posters experience and why I believe 100% that his experience is not all in his head. :)
 
Thanks Jon - very interesting Such a shame they have to spout such scientific nonsense though. I'm much happier to believe in a chemical process where deposits are dissolved, not magically attracted by -ve charged nano particles of fuel (how does a liquid become particles?) FWIW I'm planning to change the oil (mobil 1 10-60) on my S2 tomorrow - engine flush first? It's a 234k mile engine, now used just on trackdays - a little oil use (possibly guides? - some oil fumes detected when being followed at Spa by a friend in a convertible)
 
Active Liposones, Boswellox, Biffadus-acti-regularis, my favourite peeves on tv advertising these days. The worst one is a womans product which advertises it has "Aqua" in it, Really?!?!? Don't know about you guys, but if a product said it had Aqua in it, I would instantly think "So, it has water in it", as I see it, marketing people are one of 3 positions, they are either stupid, think their customers are stupid, or their customers are actually stupid.. Yet, the advertising standards agency will clamp down on a car manufacturer for having an advert which hints that a car is "Fun" or "Exciting" to drive (GT86), but people can get away with scientific mumbo jumbo and saying a product is good because it contains any of the ones above such as cosmetics adverts. Load of Boswellox
 
As Ed said, thanks Jon. That was interesting and helpful. What ratios of acetone, fuel and water did your old-fashioned rig use? And would making such a thing for home use be a viable idea? Oli. ETA: Completely agree with your views on advertising and marketing mumbo-jumbo!
 
Yes very interesting Jon, and thanks for the support![:)] The mechanic that did my car told me that on the second (post combustion chamber) can of fluid they often get plumes of white smoke out the exhaust, which would support your analysis, although I never saw anything like this whilst the treatment was carried out on my car. Whilst the treatment was run the only thing I could detect from observing was some slight changes in engine speed and tone (which was set set at 1500 rpm). Re the price, factoring garage labour rates in London at about Ă‚ÂŁ70 an hour and considering the process took about 1 1/2 hours the Ă‚ÂŁ100 is not too excessive, I'm sure they have a big mark-up on the product but when I consider the results it appears good value. Terraclean's recommended pricing for this is about Ă‚ÂŁ56 for the treatment (I have it on a .pdf somewhere) so I assume most places are adding their own labour rates into this or setting the price higher as they believe customers are willing to pay more for positive results. Overall I've been very happy with the result, the engine does actually feel like its been cleaned, it certainly pulls harder and is more free reving, the difference has been quite marked. Edd
 
I don't think the price was excessive at all. On the one hand, some people may say that the car can be run without supervision, so the labour is only in fitting the machine to the car and then putting it all back afterwards... But I would be inclined to say that because a temporary fuel system is connected to the car, most technicians would probably want to keep an eye on it for the whole time it is hooked up, in case it springs a leak if nothing else, or in case the rad fans are not working on the car and it may boil up while running. I am almost tempted to get one of the machines, as reading this has reminded me just how useful the old one used to be, a little like the Asnu injector test and cleaning bench, the alignment machine or several other bits you can survive without and farm out if need be, but it is much better to have it there for the jobs when needed. Home build one, of course. I can't my hands are tied by blooming insurance companies, but making a home made one is just a 1 or 2 gallon boat fuel tank (looks like a red emergency fuel can with pipe attachments, a used 944 fuel pump, one high pressure hose from the fuel pump to a used 944 fuel feed hose, and a low pressure pipe back to the tank from a used 944 fuel return hose. For the mixture ratios, I used to stick to 50% fuel, 30% Acetone and 20% water,,, Other mechanics I knew used to use 25% acetone and 25%water, others used to use a small proportion of diesel or ATF to the mix, as they thought it helped soften the deposits... Hard to be scientific in a shade tree solution though :) I have told this story before, but I think it is relevant here, back a few years ago when I was still based in my tiny old workshop and was just myself and one other technician, I had a visit from a Forte rep, when we had just finished servicing my 968 The rep made me a deal, he said that if I was not impressed by his demonstration he would pay for my time, an oil filter and 2 gallons of Mobil1... So I agreed The demonstration included taking the car on a 4 mile test drive, then checking the intake vacuum reading, compression test on all 4 cylinders, and checking the oil colour.. Because the oil was always changed every 6 months on my car, it was still golden just as expected... compression was good, just a variation of 5 to 10 psi across all the cylinders and the vacuum was just fine (cant remember the exact readings).. but it was all as you would expect from a 100k mile 968 So we added a Forte flush to the oil, a gas treatment and injector cleaner to the fuel tank, ran the car for 15 mins, shut it down and checked the oil... It was now black, totally black.. We drained it, changed the oil filter, changed the oil and took it for another 4 mile test drive. I hated to say it, but on the second test drive the car felt more responsive, but being a hater of snake oil, I underplayed how much better it felt and we progressed with the vacuum and compression tests, which really shocked me... All compression's were equal, within 1 or 2 psi, the vacuum gauge now showed an improvement in vacuum.. I was a bit blown away to be honest and turned from dismissive to stocking Forte products ever since. I have no shares in Forte, always been a fan of Wurth products, because they supply the Porsche factory, so this is just my own experience of deposits within engines. As a side note I kept a sample in a glass jar that Forte gave me to keep some of the used engine oil in, I put it on the shelf and even after another 2 years before we moved to the current workshop, the contamination in the oil never settled out... not sure if that is a bonus of the forte product (keeping dirt in suspension) or it is a testament to Mobil 1 for doing the same thing (grabbing hold of contamination), but I was quite shocked by that as well.
 
Jon, when I asked how the garage came across the treatment they said terraclean came and did them a demo, one to the owners car and one to his mates high mileage diesel. They found good improvements on both so decide to take on the product. Perhaps you could get the same and take a look yourself? Edd
 
Such products will be received better as time goes by because it's becoming more and more difficult to push these engines on the open road as hard as they were designed to be run. Avoiding the engine to accumulate various deposits by giving it a good thrash from time to time is I think better than trying to clean it - for any kind of engine actually. Edd, can you remove one or two spark plugs and tell us if the piston tops are now devoid of any carbon deposit?
 
ORIGINAL: zcacogp ... and yet you still think that your DIY solution gave a better result than the Forte products?
I think so, the Forte products are good, but they work over however long it takes as long as it takes to use up the fuel in the tank, you are also dealing with a product of about 500ml so it is limited how much it can do with one shot. I think frequent use of the forte products would possibly eliminate the need for something like a decontamination machine, even if the car started off life with heavy deposits. My own cars get two services a year, on each one the engine oil gets a flush and the fuel is given a dose of the forte gas treatment and the injector cleaner. The old rig I used to use was more of a concentrated one shot, which over the course of half an hour used to do its thing and right away you could feel a difference. Its hard to make a real comparison, it could be that the Forte stuff is just as good
 
ORIGINAL: TTM Avoiding the engine to accumulate various deposits by giving it a good thrash from time to time is I think better than trying to clean it - for any kind of engine actually. Edd, can you remove one or two spark plugs and tell us if the piston tops are now devoid of any carbon deposit?
My car gets regularly thrashed so although it may help its obviously not enough to prevent a certain amount of buildup that requires removal by other means, the Italian tune up has its limitations it appears. Without an endoscope its going to be difficult to show anything worthwhile, and perhaps only really useful if a before and after inspection was carried out. I don't expect the process has left the pistons devoid of carbon but its obviously removed enough to restore some performance. Edd
 
The water injection theory is also used by Aqua-Tune (http://www.aquatune.com/) who promise 25% increases in power and economy etc etc, plus it allegedly cleans the engine. Water is a very complex substance that can exist in multiple states, but it's not as complex as the marketing guff that all these guys insist on using - in this case "cracked water" of all things.
 
Just watched the video for terraclean and visited their website and would not buy one of their machines on principle that a lot of people would think I had been a mug to buy one. For starters, the AutoInform video... Either that guy has been fed some complete claptrap or he just waffles claptrap.. Apparently the Terraclean chemicals include no carbon (maybe) and the fuel is "Apophatic" which although it is a word with connections to greek origins of "negative" to which they I believe are trying to link to their machine somehow negatively charging the "non carbon apophatic fuel", Apophatic has more origins in theology than it does in chemistry or Physics, with theology being more a science in belief systems than it has in science. The next thing is who is selling it, Randstad has more to do with hard selling jubilee clips and cheap wiper blades to garages rather than a business I imagine have any more of a lab than I have dairy farm. In addition, in the video it shows the return fuel line being crimped off to stop the solution going back to the tank, which I think is daft and if you need to remove and hook up the feed line, you may as well us the cars fuel pressure regulator to make sure the car has the right fuel pressure and remove the return line and recirculate back to the tank... crimping a fuel flexi hose on a classic car, could cause problems with an old hardening fuel hose... on the one hand it is better that the fuel line being hard is found and rectified in the workshop and while it is hooning down the A1 on a sunday morning, its still not how I would like to hook up a machine to a fuel system. Lastly... Ed China representing them.. I have worked on a Porsche 911 that Ed worked on, and everything that they had done in the wheeler dealer show was the very reason it was in my workshop.. I don't even want to start on the Boxster and 944 episodes. I think I will either stick with the forte products, or talk to my insurance company again about me using a new version of my home brew machine and who they would like it to be tested by for them to let it back in the workshop :) Water injection works for performance, and very possibly economy, and would improve carbon removal.. But Aquatune is not the way forward, there are proper systems out there. A lot of this reminds me of the various in line "devices" that people were fitting to cars when leaded fuel was vanishing, which were mostly magnets and somehow ionised fuel, didnt believe them back then, and the aquatune smells of the same ethics. Ah well... gonna sign off and wait for ed china or Randstad to sue me now!
 
Understandable Jon, the american style BS is hard to swallow but at least we have started a useful debate on the benefits of decarbonising. Edd
 
The crazy thing is, if they cut the BS I would probably buy one and if I did not agree with how it hooked up, I would look at talking to the company about it and get them to approve my way as an alternative. But if these take off, the BS is likely to see the company on watchdog for all the wrong reasons of its BS science, rather than any problem with what it does, which is probably fine. They have already made their machine so you have to buy their fluids, and with how strict insurance companies are with workshop tools in garages, they already could have a captive market as lucrative as the expensive air conditioning machines all garages have these days but one where they supply the consumable fluid, so all the BS is counterproductive. Just leave it at being an engine "Decarbonising machine which will internally clean the engine" is all they need say, and they avoid being the laughing stock of forums and garages alike, so even if the fluid is just acetone and water, (it may well be any number of other things), if it does the job, and its quite a unique machine, leave it at that.
 
I agree, as I said a few posts back it looks to me as though Terraclean have shot themselves in the foot when it comes to marketing this product, whilst it certainly works, their angle on the marketing makes it look nothing more than a gimmick. The only reason I tried it was because I had read a fair bit of feedback that it actually worked. Edd
 
This thread has inspired me to get some Forte flush I've done some "before" cylinder compressions, so will post up the "after" tomorrow
 

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