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Engine Decarbonising

I bought the sump plug from eBay for about a tenner. It came with a brass and rubber dowty seal and a 1/8NPT plug that could be removed to fit a temp sensor. I bought a cheapy oil temp gauge for now (probs going to go for 3 x Innovate gauges in the future £££) that came with the sensor and I got an A5 piece of 2mm CF from CarbonMods for £5 delivered:
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I've made a cardboard template to cut the carbon to size and I took a spare binnacle surround and modified it. The carbon piece will fit in the gap and I can mount 2 x gauges in there:
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I tried a similar sump plug - it leaked. I got a friend to drill and tap a thread into a 944 sump plug. the 944 plug has a conical sealing face so is quite different even if the flat plugs share the same thread size.
 
I also received another oil cooler in the post today from eBay £1.20 plus £9.99 postage :) :) :) I'll see what the oil temps are like in fast road usage and a sessioned track day on the 1st of June. If necessary I can then mount the second cooler on the other side of the radiator in series and get Pirtek to make some hoses up ahead of a Ring trip in July.
 
ORIGINAL: edh I tried a similar sump plug - it leaked. I got a friend to drill and tap a thread into a 944 sump plug. the 944 plug has a conical sealing face so is quite different even if the flat plugs share the same thread size.
That's worth knowing Ed, ta! I'll pick the original one up tomorrow and get it drilled and tapped in case this one leaks then I can just drop it in the garage for a quick drain, switch over and refill.
 
Oooooh, I like that sump plug. Any more details please? Oli. ETA: Ah, don't worry - you've provided lots more details! Thanks.
 
ORIGINAL: Eldavo
ORIGINAL: edh I tried a similar sump plug - it leaked. I got a friend to drill and tap a thread into a 944 sump plug. the 944 plug has a conical sealing face so is quite different even if the flat plugs share the same thread size.
That's worth knowing Ed, ta! I'll pick the original one up tomorrow and get it drilled and tapped in case this one leaks then I can just drop it in the garage for a quick drain, switch over and refill.
Use a 968 one, it doesn't have a magnet (at least mine didn't) makes drilling it easier.
 
Dragging an old thread back from the grave, but .... ... I serviced my S2 today and put some Forte oil flush in the cylinders beforehand to soak overnight, as Jon (Indi9xx) described. There was a little left in the bores this morning which was caught on the rags in the holes. I then put another can of Forte in the oil and started it up and ran it for 20 minutes to get hot, before draining the oil and putting some fresh 10W40 semi in. I don't have a compression tester so can't tell whether the compressions have increased as a result. I did notice that the starter really struggled to turn the engine over once the flush had been in, but that could be down to the fact that the bores were wet (with the flush) and hence sealing abnormally well. The oil was black and dirty when it came out, but it always is when it is serviced so nothing new there. It did produce quite a lot of white smoke while idling with the flush in the oil, but this stopped after it was drained and refilled, so I am guessing this is down to either the flush in the oil or the residue of flush in the bores (probably the former as the latter should have burned off within seconds.) Post treatment and service, it worked much as usual. It felt more responsive and brisker on the throttle and idled both more smoothly and quietly. But - again - it always does this post-service, so nothing unusual. Did the Forte stuff make any difference? I just don't know. It wasn't cheap (£15 for two 400ml bottles) so I won't be using it again in a rush, but that's not to say it was worthless. Oli.
 
More of an update, for the sake of completeness ... I think that leaking the bores to soak in Forte overnight was a good idea, thanks Jon. My S2 seems to be doing well having done this; it pulls more enthusiastically in gear and runs very well as a consequence. I am aware that Edd said that his 'engine de-carbonisation' had a similar effect on his S2 as chipping it did, and I am starting to see what he means. It feels like a bigger, more muscular engine in the mid-range as a result of the treatment which are similar comments to those I made when I chipped it. It was worth doing the soak/flush, and I guess the next question is how often it needs to be done? Once a year sounds like a sensible interval to aim for. If anyone else is reading this and wondering whether £15 on Forte products is money well spent, I'd say it is. Oli.
 
Any updates on the Terraclean treatment yet ? ive been thinking of getting this done on my own 944... just need convincing its worth it really., Jinxy
 
Save £85 and buy a couple of bottles of Forte instead. I'll wager it's every bit as good and a tiny fraction of the price. Oli.
 
Water injection (compressed steam) cleans your engine combustion area internals far better [;)] See what a cylinder looks like when the head is removed when a HG has been leaking.
 
ORIGINAL: zcacogp I guess the next question is how often it needs to be done? Once a year sounds like a sensible interval to aim for.
I bought a cheap mini camera thing that connects to my laptop which allows me to have a look through plug holes. Not sure what they are called, but quite convenient to spot the tops of pistons.
 
ORIGINAL: edh hmmm sounds like snake oil to me.
My thoughts as well, I have a degree in chemistry and the "science" mentioned above in the American product sounds highly dubious!!! I can't imagine any magic potions would be as good as the traditional method of removing the head and cleaning the combustion chamber, tops of pistons and manifolds. Or just use a good flush at a fraction of the price as mentioned above.
 
I used Forte products when i worked in a garage. I rate them highly, especially the diesel treatment (a bit irrelevant here) Not sure i would want to pour the flush in my bores though.
 
On some engines that Terraclean process seems to fix a problem. Just ask B7 Audi RS4 owners with the 4.2 V8 FSI engine. Despite the figures stating they made 414BHP they make anywhere between 320-380BHP as a result of carbon deposits forming inside the engine. Water methanol injection has been seen as one preventative measure as well as an aid to the power output. The Forte treatment does seem like a half decent idea it has to be said with the promise of such results in this thread :).
 
ORIGINAL: ChasR On some engines that Terraclean process seems to fix a problem. Just ask B7 Audi RS4 owners with the 4.2 V8 FSI engine. Despite the figures stating they made 414BHP they make anywhere between 320-380BHP as a result of carbon deposits forming inside the engine. Water methanol injection has been seen as one preventative measure as well as an aid to the power output. The Forte treatment does seem like a half decent idea it has to be said with the promise of such results in this thread :).
Isn't this a DFI issue with a build up in the inlet manifold & valves? DFI means no fuel washing this off. My DFI A2 has similar issues with variable length plastic manifold getting gummed up. Can't see how terraclean (coming through fuel injectors) will deal with inlet manifold problems in a DFI car.
 
That is precisely the issue. The Carbon build up on the valves where normally they would be washed off with petrol:). You have to love direct injection. I did query this with my friend, although people have seen an increase to almost stock levels of power by undergoing this treatment. He is considering going through MRC Tuning for their decarbonation process after his car made 370BHP on the rollers (not too bad). Apparently the other cure is to give the car an Italian tuneup as a preventative measure;).
 
Stupid Q but how do you get carbonisation on the back of the inlet valves of a DI engine? Where does the carbon come from, given that all that flows through the valve is fresh air? Oli.
 

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