Fuel Lines

[Big Dave]

Ben. If your dropping the rear beam, to say re-index , then YES its defo worth replacing the fuel lines, if not some of the hard to get at brake lines too...
The S2/turbo lines are now supplied in 2 sections, the front + rear. They have a join about half way along the car...
My set are just the rear sections. Ie flow + return pipes. Complete with connectors...Brand new still with the Porsche part no tags on...Drop me a PM if interested....

 

[u63af]

Paul,
I was thinking of doing it with my brake flaring/swaging kit as you say and will keep you posted on the progress. Need to think of the best way to cut through the pipe without making too many sparks[]. Suppose if I drain it first, it should be ok.
Cheers
Sandy

 

[JamesO]

I was tempted by the RPM flexible hoses all the way through, I think their £350 pounds ish.
Anybody used them?

 

[Hilux]

Need to think of the best way to cut through the pipe without making too many sparks

[][][][]

Hacksaw or pad saw (handle with a hacksaw blade protruding) and ensure swarf and rough edges are removed or brake line cutter if theres room to ease the pipes away by undoing a number of clips. Note: a kunifer or copper brake line cutter isnt man enough on metal however I am positive the flarer will be. Shouldnt be a need for a high speed cutting blade! I may be ststing the obvious but ensure the pressure has either bled off (it does) or you release the pressure and have something to catch the petrol.

 

[u63af]

James, £300 is a lot of money for a few bits of pipe. I am not sure if your car is the same as mine in terms of corroded pipe but it is only the rear section of mine that is bad and I will replace this with about £10 of hosing and then wayoil the remainder of the pipe.

 

[Hilux]

Agree entirely with above post.

I`ve built cars with flex/braided fuel hoses throughout for much less.

 

[James_G]

Following on from this earlier thread I have now been to see Pirtek and while they can make up some replacement fuel lines for me they need some information.

The scenario is that prior to my ownership the original lines have been cut and replaced with fuel line and the dreaded jubilee clips right back to a short piece of pipework just in front of the fuel filter. Rather than muck around I think it's best to get a pipe with a compression joint on one end, and the right screw fitting for the fuel filter on the other and replace in one go.

So can anybody help with the following:

1) Does anybody know the diameter of what's left of my original fuel line, or shall I just measure with some vernier calipers?

2) And the thread on the fuel filter - anybody know what spec it is?

Finally, is it just a case of undoing the current pipe, or do I have to release the pressure somehow first?

Thanks

James

 

[u63af]

James,
Since the previous report, I have cut out the rotten section and used high pressure rubber fuel hose with fuel clips. I have had no probs. What I would say prior to cutitng the hose is to disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pressure reg and blow down it to drain out all of the fuel. I did not do this first and it caused a syphon effect which meant fuel pissed all over my drive. I still think that the high pressure fuel hose is fine so long as fuel clips are used rather than jublillees. I cut the original fuel hose and swaged (flared) the end and then used two fuel clips on each end.

Seems to be fine at the moment.

 

[James_G]

ORIGINAL: u63af

James,
Since the previous report, I have cut out the rotten section and used high pressure rubber fuel hose with fuel clips. I have had no probs. What I would say prior to cutitng the hose is to disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pressure reg and blow down it to drain out all of the fuel. I did not do this first and it caused a syphon effect which meant fuel pissed all over my drive. I still think that the high pressure fuel hose is fine so long as fuel clips are used rather than jublillees. I cut the original fuel hose and swaged (flared) the end and then used two fuel clips on each end.

Seems to be fine at the moment.

Thanks for the update, that's good news. Further investigation shows that I have a problem because two pieces of braided fuel hose pipe have been (badly)joined together some how, and it's here that it is leaking, so some new pipe and fuel clips sounds the perfect solution. Longer term, I'd like to get them done properly but what with new suspension and brakes all round last week, I just want to get on with the job of driving it!

ETA:

By the way, where did you get the hose and clips and can you remember the internal bore size? Thanks.

 

[Alpine]

same topic, but slightly different issue, how bad does rust on brake pipes need to be before they need to be replaced? Not sure if you can see on the pic below, but I have some surface rust on my pipes which I have sand papered off. I've been told by one garage that they are fine, and another says they need to be replaced

 

[George Elliott]

Phil, One garage is a bit short of work, the other is a good honest garage.
From your (very good) image, the fuel lines in the lower part of the image are the "worst". They are covered by the arch liner and therefore dont get seen so often.
I would etch prime the lines carefully with a pencil brush, after you clean with emery paper, then thinners to degrease them.
Then most important, give them a load of wax/oil/grease type proofing from dampness.
My opinion for what its worth.
good luck
George

 

[James_G]

Right, have now found some petrol clips, but I've had to buy a series of sizes as I've not had the chance to get under the car to measure the diameter of the existing fuel lines.

So unless anybody knows the diameter of the factory fuel lines (and thus what bore diameter of the hose I will be attaching) I shall break out the verniers sometime this weekend and report back.

One day, many moons from now, all these little irritating jobs will be done, and I can just get on and drive it.

 

[zcacogp]

ORIGINAL: James_G
One day, many moons from now, all these little irritating jobs will be done, and I can just get on and drive it.

[] [] []
That made me laugh!

Unfortunately, these cars are a labour of love as long as you own them ... sorry to say, but your car will never be 'done'; there will always be something to do to it or on it.

The day it is 'done' is the day you sell it. (And you will only have 'done' everything then because it is for sale!)

Like it. Or hate it. That is the joy/pain of owning a decent 944.


Oli.

P.S. Sorry, I don't know what bore of tubing the fuel lines are - I noticed you have asked before. Take the verniers to it, get a good few readings to eliminate local variation, and take them into Pirtek. You will almost certainly find that such tube comes in standard sizes, and they will be able to identify the standard size from the readings you give them.


Oli.

 

[James_G]

I was being slightly flippant of course, since I know old cars are a labour of love but, as you know, I had just replaced all the shocks, and fitted new brakes and I thought I'd have a month off from needing to get underneath it.

Still I am happy to report that my new Pagid pads/Sebro discs combination is working very well, and with the benefit of your alignment settings but with slight more negative camber at the front it really does corner fantastically, which bodes well for Friday's track day.

Anyway, I'll try again with Pirtek and report back.

 

[Alpine]

ORIGINAL: George Elliott

Phil, One garage is a bit short of work, the other is a good honest garage.
From your (very good) image, the fuel lines in the lower part of the image are the "worst". They are covered by the arch liner and therefore dont get seen so often.
I would etch prime the lines carefully with a pencil brush, after you clean with emery paper, then thinners to degrease them.
Then most important, give them a load of wax/oil/grease type proofing from dampness.
My opinion for what its worth.
good luck
George

thanks George, that's very helpful. I'm glad I got a second opinion from another garage.

 

[TTM]

Hello Phil,
I will echo George's comment ; mine looked exactly the same as yours in this very spot and only using reasonably sized sand paper allowed to get rid of most of the rusty spots. The lines looked fine underneath, better than they appeared to be at first sight.

 

[appletonn]

ORIGINAL: James_G


Still I am happy to report that my new Pagid pads/Sebro discs combination is working very well, and with the benefit of your alignment settings but with slight more negative camber at the front it really does corner fantastically, which bodes well for Friday's track day.

James, totally OT, but which Pagids did you go for? Just curious as I am looking at fitting some Pagid 4-2s to replace the Porterfields that are currently on it?

Thanks

 

[David Hooper]

Interesting topic this as 944 owners are flagging up issues that will, and already are affecting 968's. Mine is a '94 & has spent nearly all it's life in Bristol, sea air etc.
My fuel lines and brake lines are very corroded at the rear and I have replacements ready for when I drop the rear torsion bar to polybush it and the swinging arms.

The OPC fuel lines, feed & return, were £56 + vat altogether & the brake lines, front to rear, left & right off the brass tee piece & the tee piece itself, were £102 + vat altogether.
I didn't think that too bad. Although I can see me having to renew all the retaining clips when I start the job[]
The real cost is labour if you don't diy.

Cheaper than a fire though[]

Cheers
Dave

 

[James_G]

ORIGINAL: appletonn


James, totally OT, but which Pagids did you go for? Just curious as I am looking at fitting some Pagid 4-2s to replace the Porterfields that are currently on it?

Thanks

Nick, I don't have the packaging to hand but I can only presume that they were Pagid OEM spec, because they were quite significantly cheaper than Pagid blues (4-2) or blacks (4-2-1), which show as over £200 for a set on their website. Either that or I've been very very lucky, as mine were only £45 for an axle set. They are vastly better than whatever was on there before though, so I'm very pleased.

They'll be getting a proper testing this coming Friday though at Castle Coombe.

 

[James_G]

Another fun afternoon dealing with the motor trade. In short nobody has high pressure fuel hose in the local area and everyone I have spoken to says that replacement with original lines is the only option. They're wrong of course but I particularly liked one guy's approach to the problem, synopsis below:

Motor Trader - Your only choice is to replace the fuel lines with original parts

Me - It's 10 hours labour and quite frankly I don't want to afford it, new brakes and suspension and all that

Motor Trader - Well, buy a new car then.

Brilliant. Still, I will find a more cost effective and safe solution because as we know I am not the only one who isn't keen on spending £££s dropping the rear of the car.