Horizontal fan on a 911? LOLA PORSCHE
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After a zillion hours (the cold always makes time go by slowly) on the car, the Engine is fully in and all piped/oiled/electric'd up. The new headers clear everything better than they did before by miles, so a plus point. When re-connecting the throttle cable though a few things needed sorting out. The run of the cable to the webers, the alignment of the spindle drop links and the spring return posativity all needed some effort, but i noticed also that the pedal did not give full throttle... The pic below is before the re-alignment of the linkages. Maybe that is why the engine only gave 198 bhp? Anyway, all is well now. The freshened brakes are on with new master cylinders and ready to bleed with my new one-man op race car bleed system. Hope its better than the tube with wife as the peddel squeezer! Have another set of wheels incase the worse happens on the mag Dymag wheels. I have no news from the man fixing them in York, so just maybe no news is good news, or he hasn't started them yet... I had decided to change the springs to the original Lola Spec of 300Lb Rear and 250 lb fronts as the car seemed very hard riding last year. I was surprised to see the rear springs fitted when it was a Skoda/Karmann Ghia race car was 560lb rear and 400 lb front.... Little wonder it was stiff! Here's a few moody shots during today. Tried monochrome for a lark.
Looks fantastic in B&W, but probably better in the flesh! Looking forward to seeing my first hillclimb sometime this year! Keep up the good work Mike
Things are coming together!
Chassis now pro set-up and looks very different to my eye to before. I'm told this will be a friendly chassis to drive! The crash damage (far more extensive than I first thought) is repaired and the damage covered by some new 'graphics'. Lat step is to get the webers tuned in to stop the pops and bangs. If these don't work then I will go for PMO or Injection.
What an interesting morning it turned out to be. Firstly, I cannot recommend Hi-Tech enough to anyone. Mick is one-of-a-kind and so cool, calm and collected. About the same age as me and with such a co-incidence of who we know and what we've done in the past. Made the effort well worth it. Got the car there and body off and onto the rollers. After a brief about the car we removed the filters, primed the carbs and the engine came into life (slowly). Ticked over well and Mick looked a bit puzzled at what he saw on the Sun readout. The side of the engine with the (now audible) bangs only had one choke just about working on the low speed circuit. The other two were 'dead' bugger all happening at tickover, no fuel in there at all. The other bank was great, going well, flowing well. Easing the primary jets out (loose) in the body cured the bangs as fuel was 'leaking' to the lazy chokes. Mick stripped the top off the 'flaming' carb and cleared various passageways out with compressed air, they are fully open to say the least, but still two chokes were dead at tick-over. A blip on the pedal and all was well on the high speed circuit in both carbs. After a bit of changing jets he got the carb working, balanced and not a bang could be heard. Mick got into the car (he used to race T 492's) and gave the car a bit of a run on the rollers, but it still was not right. Back to the jets and back into the hot seat. With a smile on his face he said he would 'drive the car up Shelsley Walsh' ie pedal to the metal......in 4th. Good grief!
Does this car ever sound full-on at full chat.
The result was 194 bhp at the wheels, 30 bhp transmission loss so 224 bhp @ 5658 rpm.
Torque was 200 lbft @ 4500, 170 @ 2500,
The car took full throttle at 1500 and ran right through to 5600/6000.
Mick confirmed all the sparks are there, all the electrics are 100%. In closing, 2 1/2 hours later, he felt the 40's too small for the engine size, and showed me the difference sizes of the emulsion tubes of the 40 compared to the 46's. Massive difference. Although the car now runs etc, he suggested I scrap the carbs and get some 46's! Why the one carb will not pull fuel at tickover is strange. So, where an I now? - Carbs that only just work and one not realy well at tick-over
- £750 of rolling road costs that should really have been 250 at most
This engine really has cost a fortune, far over the sensible costs, but there we are, a bit wiser and a bit older.
Sounded bloody great though!
A few pics of the day: ''Now why is there no fuel in here?''
''I cannot believe it...''
''This will be good up Shelsley Walsh''
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Gary71 I need to get out more!
Joined: 31 Mar 2004 Posts: 3105 Location: Cheshire : [link=http://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=226471#226471]
[/link]Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 7:25 pm Post subject: [link=http://www.ddk-online.com/phpBB2/posting.php?mode=quote&p=226471]
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Sounds like you are a bit closer to the full story now! I think someone mentioned a while back that if the venturi effect has been lost somewhat by machining them out then maybe it cannot generate enough depression to pull the fuel in at idle? Why this should be the case on two out of six I don't know, but maybe it just tolerances. _________________
Sounds like you are a bit closer to the full story now! I think someone mentioned a while back that if the venturi effect has been lost somewhat by machining them out then maybe it cannot generate enough depression to pull the fuel in at idle? Why this should be the case on two out of six I don't know, but maybe it just tolerances. _________________
Alex Postan
New member
Now that you have it running well and quite obviously with loads of low down torque and throttle response, would it be best to take it up the hills as it is in order to extract the most from what you have and to leave the change to 46's until next winter? Spend the money burning rubber! Where is Hi Tech? From your post it seems that the owner is very sound character. Rolling roads are horses for courses and until now I have used Bob Watson for my Porsche and Northampton Motorsport for anything with Webers attached. I have a car with a single SU carburettor and I would like to find a roller with an operator who both knows SUs and has an idea about needles and springs....that sounds like the Swingin Blue Jeans doesn't it "Needles and Pins ah..." More power to your right elbow BTW - just drop the clutch and give it the beans.
You are dead right Alex. With the car running 'well' I intend to stop messing and get some entries in and give the car 'death'. I need to get used to the thing especially the unique driving position and open experience. The car has about 440 bhp/ton which is more than enough to be interesting. The Xmas list is growing, and as ever , race cars are never done.
Alex Postan
New member
Let us all know when and where you enter any events. Prescott would be convenient for me.....
Prescott 23/24th entered, but entry not conformed. Never ran there before in this car, but oddly it was the first and only place I saw Terry in the Nomad with this engine about 10 years ago.
Since the RR session I've started the Lola twice from stone cold. Once running and it's cleared it's throat (20 secs) I've left it to idle. 'Normally@ the car would start all the noises from the one exhaust. After 5 mins not a sound, not a pop ant a bang, just a purr. Admittedly it is not perfect, but ticks over evenly, will rise on the throttle and 'blip' cleanly and settle to a tick over instantly. Success then! I have also got on the track of a second hand pair of 46mm PMO's! We will see if I can do a deal and fit them after the first 2 events. A little bit like a 908....
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DMFi1uP19w]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DMFi1uP19w[/link] 5 steps foreward last weekend.
Alex Postan
New member
Excellent. Sadly I was unable to get to Prescott; a pre-MOT checkover has generated a complete brake rebuild on the Bonneville Sprite - calipers, master cylinder and wheel cylinders. Happy Sunday.
Spot the difference! 2 big changes in the pic from tonights garage session.
Bit of an update. After Prescott it all went wrong again with the PMO's, but cracked the problem last sunday. Here is the post from DDK: I was in the garage asap today. I set the carbs to factory set-up (I even read the instructions) Filled with 2 gallons of fresh fuel having checked the filters (I do listen to you) which were clean. I took the 3 plugs out of the offending side of the engine. #4 was 'unfired' and the other 2 sooty (as in too rich)but firing. I had found some new plug lead from about the mid 80's with old fashined coper wires down it and an old plug connector about 1973... Replaced the #4 existing lead and separated as much as possible the three leads. Cranked it over forgetting to reconnect the linkage between the two carbs (idiot) so it started on one set of acellerator jets. RAN A DREAM
Not a pop or a f@rt or a bang anywhere. I waited for it to warm on a 1200 rpm ish tick-over (as per PMO instructions) Not a sound. The pulses from both side are even and the heat is the same too. After a few mins blipped the throttle and it sure does spring to life. Stopped it and took the plugs out. All three running but #4 still not as sooty as 5 and 6 (4/5/6 are the cylinder numbers on that side of the flat 6) Put back together and tried again. As before, running a dream and very responsive to a 25% throttle movement blip. Tided all the leads, made cable-tie separators for now and tried it again. As before. I think this is a result. To the post mortum
see pic below) 1 Lead separated from the plug top.Plug top taken apart to find the resistor 'slug' rattling in the insulator tube. 2 Looked at the cpeer wire strands in the dist cap ferrul (?) and there i find the cable is not folded over under the copper sleeve but cut short. The ferrul/wire connection must be by the barb cutting through the insulation and into the strands. I have always folded the wire over and then crimped the ferrul The barb sismply making sure it does not pull off later. My replacement has the strands soldered to the ferrul for peace of mind. All the other dist ends are the same as this one, so the lot will be changed to the fold and solder method. So there we are job done at last. It was always going to be something daft or catastrophic. Prepping the car now for a weekend at Loton next week.
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see pic below) 1 Lead separated from the plug top.Plug top taken apart to find the resistor 'slug' rattling in the insulator tube. 2 Looked at the cpeer wire strands in the dist cap ferrul (?) and there i find the cable is not folded over under the copper sleeve but cut short. The ferrul/wire connection must be by the barb cutting through the insulation and into the strands. I have always folded the wire over and then crimped the ferrul The barb sismply making sure it does not pull off later. My replacement has the strands soldered to the ferrul for peace of mind. All the other dist ends are the same as this one, so the lot will be changed to the fold and solder method. So there we are job done at last. It was always going to be something daft or catastrophic. Prepping the car now for a weekend at Loton next week.
Can I just say "Wow!" That looks fantastic [ORIGINAL: 911hillclimber
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That is very kind of you![]
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Stolen from another well known Porsche site! [link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbUqjE1cv_k]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbUqjE1cv_k[/link]
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