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Looking to buy a mint 951 turbo s

ORIGINAL: Hilux

I might now go for the cheaper option and strip down/track day special it rather than fork out top dollar for cars with faults.

i think I might go for s2`s etc theres more of em and probably less thrashed than turbos?

Ho hum............ever onward[&:]

Well i thought i'd get an S2 and strip it down, it is very hard to even think about doing that now i have the car, the interior is good and i can't force myself yet to even start taking bits out.

There's a flaw in your theory about less thrashed, i would recon the turbo would be less thrashed as its got bags of toarque and unless seriously modded it doesn't get faster as you get closer to the red line - net result is gear changes at 500-1000 rpm below red line on fast driving are more likely, whereas the S2 like to go all the way to red line and when driven fast is more likely to have been, and we all know that's when there is more chance of engine wear, on cold starts if thrashed and at high revs at any temp.


On the other hand if your referring to the turbo wearing out on the higher miler turbos then it's not a massive amount of cash to get it replaced / upgraded even ?

Just my thoughts on the matter
 
Also meant to say, couldn't agree more with fen. I got my 1991 S2 with 161k miles for a tad over £4k, it's had £1k of work done on it including refurbishing alloys and is running superb. I will probably spend £2k on it over the next 12 months on front struts/springs. clutch, zost/decat and service, and it won't get any better than that without spending massive amounts on it.

 
It does take time - I spent 18 Months trying to find the 'right' one. What really peeved me off was that when I had spotted one and that didn't need a warp drive or scotty's transporter to get me there, they were gone, snapped up within a few days.

The one I have now, at 154K miles and cost 6k, still has its faults but heck if you bought a good low miler, newer one I reckon it would still need the same attention in a few years to come.

 
Another thing to bear in mind is that if we're honest, how many of us haven't had to spend a four figure sum on our Turbo or S2 soon after buying it? I know I have every time bar one (which I just sold on as it needed more like £4k). Hell I've just done that with a 306.

Better to buy lower down the budget and fix it. I don't mean buy a shed, "there's no such thing as a cheap Porsche" is only too true. Consider a cheaper car with no obvious problems, there will still be some, guaranteed.
 
Sounds to me like its a question of expectations.

Even a 14 year old minter will have a few problems after all its a 14 year old car.

Mine has had £5k spent on it over the past year and a bit, split betwen performance mods and service/maintaniace. I would consider mine a mint condition car, but it still has a couple of thing i would like to get done. If i was keeping it, but i will hve to let the next owner take up the mantle..

 
ORIGINAL: Fen
Another thing to bear in mind is that if we're honest, how many of us haven't had to spend a four figure sum on our Turbo or S2 soon after buying it?

Well, I honestly haven't but then my S2 only had 55k miles when I bought it, and it did not require much attention until after 10k miles.
I concede it's now near impossible to find genuinely good/clean/fine/mint low mileage cars, even with the right kind of money. Those are just meant to be driven.
 

ORIGINAL: Fen

Another thing to bear in mind is that if we're honest, how many of us haven't had to spend a four figure sum on our Turbo or S2 soon after buying it?

Well I honestly didn't. I did pay top whack (£12k at the time) from an independant dealer about 7 years ago for the S2 and for the next couple of years it was simply serviced with very little extra to be done. Since then I've spent £1k a year maintaining it.

The Turbo took me about 6 months to find and about a dozen 'crap heaps' to look at. I eventually was very lucky in buying from a member I knew, who had maintained it properly at the same garage I use and again its cost me about £1k a year in maintenance.

I hate posting like this because it just tempts fate (and my belts, water pump, chain etc are all due this year on both cars) [:eek:]
 
OK, well it isn't just me but I guess it isn't endemic either, albeit you two bought your cars some time ago.

I'd still hold £1k-£2k back personally if I were buying a 944 now. Maybe I'm just too fussy, but I doubt I'm alone in that.
 
Yes, totally agree.
If I were to buy another one in the same condition of my S2 when I bought it I'd surely find £1k to spend right away (suspension bits ...).
 
Anybody buying any Porsche in virtually any condition IMO would be mad not to have at least 2K for the simple fact that we own high performance sportscars.
 
952 is RHD. Non-Turbos are technicall 945s

Maybe the 951 is american spec?

I note the comment re thrashed cars. The S2 16valvers have their power/torque at the top end so need to be driven briskly according to comments/research I`ve done.

Re price, I really dont know what to spend, this is amazing to me personally. Low prices offer high mileage - cheaper - scruffier (still reliable and good value) High prices offer lower mileage - good nick all round - perfect provenance/history (potentially as reliable but equaly potentially unreliable)

To be perfectly honest I`m really worried about buying one. I dont have an issue with working on or rebuilding cars and consider that I need to buy one that has excellent bodywork and interior, has full provenance so people expect it if I sell on but I`m in the lap of the gods with the mechanical aspect. I know the difference between injectors firing and tappet noise and all the squeaks and groans etc etc but long term reliability?????????????

I am heartened by the seemingly reliable high mileage (when regularly serviced) cars you all own and note that there are some great specialist out there.

So 10K and hope no major issues (for a while) or 6-7K and assume issues (or not)

What intervals do Porsche recomend belts etc be changed and when are the idlers changed.
 
Totally agree with Fen and Thom. In my first year I have spent 2k on servicing, water pump, brakes, sensors, replacing cracked fog lamp, electric window motor (thanks Fen still works!) and dash lights.
I still have to sort out the AC, fuel and brake lines, radiator, suspension, drop links, Wastegate, replace cracked dash and noisy rear wiper motor. I estimate this will cost another 2+K including labour.
I bought this car in the knowledge that it would need some work, but the overriding aspect for me, it had every single bill and every (bar 1 year) OPCspecialist service stamp.

 

ORIGINAL: Hilux

To be perfectly honest I`m really worried about buying one.

And I'm sure you're not the first person in that position.

You should most definately take comfort in the fact that they last to very high milages without a problem (Fen's previous S2 was dyno'd at around 228bhp at 160K miles (approx ~ Fen can correct me) and I've seen similar "on the nose or better" results from turbos with big miles too).

The catchphrase is indeed "with the right maintenance" however.

Fo my money ~ in order of preference;-
- spend higher end money for v tidy car with good history. Low miles not necessarily a bonus, but may help come re-sale time.
- spend less money for scruffier car with good history.

I'd avoid cars with bad rust, and I'd avoid cars with sketchy history.

944s are no spring chickens. Fact. Things can go wrong and can get expensive if they do ~ give yourself the best chance you can of avoiding that.

In saying that - some of the consumables are remarkably cheap. have a look at the top thread in this forum and check out some of the prices.

And remember that these cars retain their value well. With good care. The void between good ones and bad ones (in value terms) is growing all the time. If you want to protect your investment, you have to be prepared to outlay some money (£1k + ) each year to do so.


 
I looked for over a year to get a good one and even ended up buying a Lux because I got so fed up trying to find the right turbo. Eventually I managed to find an immaculate Guards Red with full black leather with 83,000 on the clock but ended up paying £10K which was more than I was hoping to pay and like so many others I am finding little things wrong here and there, oh and the clutch has started juddering [:mad:] Guess what I am trying to say is hang in there, there are still some good ones out there.
 
ORIGINAL: mik_ok
(Fen's previous S2 was dyno'd at around 228bhp at 160K miles (approx ~ Fen can correct me) and I've seen similar "on the nose or better" results from turbos with big miles too).

To be honest this happens on a lot of cars, as past certain high mileages most engines will give out more than their original power figure as most of the friction of the engine will have decreased to a minimum - that's simply called "wearing out".
It's likely to be noticeable only on engines that have been well looked after throughout all their life, though [:)]
 

As decent turbos get more and more scarce then you wil simply find the prices rising, and this may even affect the pice of the less decent ones too. I mean to say £10-£12k is hardly much money considering the car it is, try find a mint 88 911 for under £20k.

I will be selling mine formally during the summer, and it will not be in for £10k thats for sure.
 

ORIGINAL: Fen

I'd still hold £1k-£2k back personally if I were buying a 944 now. Maybe I'm just too fussy, but I doubt I'm alone in that.

Too right, I think we'd all do that, because we care about the cars. That's why we are reading this forum. Any other car and you might not be overly concerned with the provenance or keeping the service record with a recognised source. Add to that the attraction of the other jobs that aren't strictly necessary - but we manage to convince ourselves it's worth it - it soon eats up the cash but creates the model you really want it to be. And stands you in good stead at resale time usually.

But, you still don't know that somethings going to let go in a big way in 2000 miles time, and nor will your buyer if you've got it up for sale right now, so even with the best care and attention, and honourable intent, some of us will get caught out. If you care and have a passion for the marque you will spend money, and you're right to do so, so make sure it's in the budget. A good provenance is a starting point, but it's no guarantee. And even if it's perfect you will want to add some extras.... [:D]

I'm sure the same applies to other 'specialist' marques, their problem is that a lot of them start with an unreliable product..... [:mad:] (no names - you know them)

Phil
 

ORIGINAL: Hilux

952 is RHD. Non-Turbos are technicall 945s

Maybe the 951 is american spec?

I note the comment re thrashed cars. The S2 16valvers have their power/torque at the top end so need to be driven briskly according to comments/research I`ve done.

Re price, I really dont know what to spend, this is amazing to me personally. Low prices offer high mileage - cheaper - scruffier (still reliable and good value) High prices offer lower mileage - good nick all round - perfect provenance/history (potentially as reliable but equaly potentially unreliable)

To be perfectly honest I`m really worried about buying one. I dont have an issue with working on or rebuilding cars and consider that I need to buy one that has excellent bodywork and interior, has full provenance so people expect it if I sell on but I`m in the lap of the gods with the mechanical aspect. I know the difference between injectors firing and tappet noise and all the squeaks and groans etc etc but long term reliability?????????????

I am heartened by the seemingly reliable high mileage (when regularly serviced) cars you all own and note that there are some great specialist out there.

So 10K and hope no major issues (for a while) or 6-7K and assume issues (or not)

What intervals do Porsche recomend belts etc be changed and when are the idlers changed.

No, it's what I said LHD is 951 and RHD is 952; nothing to do with spec, all to do with the bodyshell being different.

I don't think low prices necessarily mean scruffier. Probably they will have higher mileages but consider 2 things:
1. The 944 is fantastically easy to clock and wears so well you can get away with it. As I said above I sold my cab with 192,000 showing and everybody who saw it agreed I could have told them it had done 92,000 and they wouldn't have batted an eyelid.
2. You can have too few miles. A lot of "garage queens" will have more problems than cars that get used regularly. This is partly because they sit around so much that different things tend to go wrong, partly because they are not used enough for owners to notice problems nor be inconvenienced enough by them to get them fixed and a lot because nobody likes to spend money on a car if they don't have to (for maintenance at least) and it's easy to skimp if it isn't a daily driver you rely on. Also consider that some of the best heeled people I have met have also been the tightest so don't go thinking "Porsche owners can afford it so that won't apply". I bet the majority of 944's owned by people on here and Titanic are getting the best looking after they have ever had now, at 15 years or so old. When new they were just a car with a prestige badge to most owners, then they were a cheap Porsche for people who couldn't afford a newer one, now they are finally being bought for what they are by people who care and can actually afford to spend more but don't choose to.

The things that are likely to go wrong with a Turbo or S2 mechanically are:
Belts, tensioners, oil seals need replaced. They rarely snap but it isn't unheard of and i don't know if those that have were overdue or not.
Heads can crack between valve seats - seem to be much more common on S2s, but far from endemic.
Head gaskets go, usually through age but frequently soon after the boost on a Turbo is increased for the first time. 50:50 if a Turbo one will go IMO unless it has already been replaced.
Various oil/water problems affect 944s all relative back to failed coolers or seals allowing the fluids to mix. Not expensive to fix and more commonly a Lux problem.
Brake calipers seize up over time as the steel backing plates react with the alloy caliper and cause swelling. Actually fairly expensive to fix (over £500 easily, maybe £1,000). This will affect high and low mileage cars as it happens over about 5 years, regardless of miles. Summer only cars in temperature controlled winter storage may be an exception, but find one.
Fuel pipes corrode at the rear. Expensive to fix as the transaxle has to come off or some sort of non-original pipework used.
Clutches fail through springs / rubber centres breaking up or they wear out. £800+ (more for an early Turbo).
Suspension wears out. £500 for standard. £1,500+ for M030 (although it can be rebuilt).
Gearboxes get noisy. Live with it as it doesn't do any harm or spend £300 fixing one of the two problems that cause it.
CV joints and torque tubes can fail/wear out but not commonly.
Engine mounts can collapse. Later cars like you are looking at are much less susceptible but it still happens.
They leak. Time and hassle rather than money to fix, usually it's the sunroof, hatch, rear lights or rear quarter lights.
I've had 2 steering racks fail but it isn't that common. Onlt £150 or so for a recon anyway.
They're old so bushes wear. You can replace things like the wishbones (£400+ per side), tie rods (£120), drop links (£40?), castor bushes (£85). Allow £100 for alignment after any of that (and annually is a good idea generally).

Turbo specific:
Turbo seals can go. It's circa £400 for a recon so hardly a biggie.
Wastegate housings seem to crack. Extremely expensive to replace with OEM but better alternatives are not so pricey. Again £400 covers it although it's a declarable mod.

S2 Specific:
Cam chain usually needs work
Cams sometimes need replaced due to failing case hardening ultimately resulting in teeth breaking off the spockets. More common than is believed on here in my opinion.

What have I missed, anyone?

I pay £25/hr for labour which might well be the least on here (and he knws what he's doing) but most people can find something reasonable.

Porsche recommend 48k or 48 months for belts I believe but we tend to go 36k/36 months because it isn't that expensive to do and it's better to be safe. Tensioners are rollers get done as required but you can bank on that being every second belt change. Expect to have oil seals changed at that sort of interval too.
 
Black
72k miles
3 prevous owners
Linen Leather sports seats
Leda
M030 ARB
AMD chip - 294 bhp
air con does not work
service history to die for
17inch Boxster alloys
Recently had 12 month service (about 1k miles ago)
I have spent more that I wanted to!

I am confident you would buy it if you saw it....however it is currently in storage in the Nurburg area [8D]

I paid 12.5 k for this 2 and half years ago after I got fed up of looking at crap....
 

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