] Sounds like im on the right track, just need to ge the funds in place and then get one bought and serviced up ready for 2009 fun [8D] Edited to add, only other concern is that im not the tallest so will i be able to see out of these! or will i be straining my neck to peer over the dash and look a little daft in the process!...guess i wont know till i go and have a look etc [] IanI was going to add this point. On a late turbo you might find that the stock suspension is OK enough to have some fun on track, if it had M030 Koni you might even find you are happy with that setup. Certainly plenty of guys on here have tracked turbos running the Porsche original spec Koni M030 suspension. However on the S2 the stock suspension is just way to soft IMHO, its not that you can't drive one stock on the track more that you might find you get fed up pretty quickly. Since the chassis on both cars is pretty much the same stuff any suspensions upgrades you might be looking at apply to both S2 and turbo. On my S2 I run Koni shocks all round with 968 M030 ARB's, 225 Lb/inch rear torsion bars, 190-220 Lb/inch rising rate front springs, solid top mounts on the front and a strut brace, front and rear spacers to fiddle the track widths, and I am fairly happy with it all. As I mentioned earlier I could fit stiffer higher spec suspension but the car is plenty fun as is, I believe with KW V3 for example the extra rear traction would likely make the car feel underpowered. Personally I think you will miss the turbo kick you get from your evo if you get an S2, the S2 is one of those cars that is deceptively quick, they never feel like they are kicking you into the seat but then you see the speedo winding round and realise that they are certainly not slow. If I was starting from scratch looking to build a track tool I think I would hunt down a bargain early turbo with minor issues, which I would then look to fix up myself. The caveat here is that they are issues that aren't going to cost 6K to fix! and these bargains do pop up from time to time.
I would add that with these power figures an early turbo and late turbo car would probably give the same performance. The turbo gained a lot of weight over the years and it has always been a bit controversial just how and where apparently so much weight was gained. It certainly seems to me and a few others that there was a big jump between the earliest non-ABS turbos (85-86) and the ABS cars afterwards or that could just be that those early cars IMHO have a much lighter feel on the road which gives the same impression. I don't know if Fen agrees with this but after driving Tref's car I really really like the earliest turbo without ABS. If I could only have one 44/68 type car I would have one of those.
] So a nice condition early stock turbo will feel nicer than the same stock later model due to better response from smaller turbo ? ...turn up the boost ( engine condition permitting) and the early car imporoves but soon runs out of puff but still makes decent power/driveabilty etc ?...more boost on later car transforms it into a much more serious beast ? [8D] Early cars have same chassis as later ones but nots as good suspension/dampers, thinner arb and quite importantly for me no LSD ? Im guessing if i can get a slightly tatty high miler but good condition/service history etc later model turbo that would be best for me, dont mind doing the work to get it back to tiptop but dont want to save some money and buy an earlier car then have to be spending to get it up to better spec suspension and diff wise etc as later model Thanks Ian
] - only thing I would say is - can you trust a "tatty"car? If someone has cared enough about the mechanical side of the car to spend proper money on it, it's unlikely they will have let the body / interior deteriorate significantly.] ....just maybe a few light marks here and there and stone chips etc but noting tooo serious of course, seen the odd one come up for sale that are like this where they have been used regular but seemingly serviced/maintained well only paint etc is starting to get a little rough around the edges, of course i know this often means other things are neglected but providing they arent them seem a possible good buy [] Ian
ORIGINAL: edh I think the answer to most of those questions is yes [
Sounds like you're ready to graduate from "944 Turbo 101" Ian [ORIGINAL: thetyrant Ok im back with more questions [
] The only thing I can add is that the specific differences you should care about between the early (that's '86 - '88) and late (that's '88 Silver Rose cars and '89 - '91 mainstream ones) are: [ul][*]LSD (which was an option on some early cars; my '86 had it) [*]Thicker drive shafts [*]Bigger brakes which required different hubs, these hubs allow even bigger still brakes to bolt straight up whereas you need an adaptor (which I don't like the idea of) to fit anything bigger than the smaller brakes the early cars (and S2s unless with the rare M030 option) have[/ul] I'd suggest that you don't care about the suspension or to a lesser extent ARBs as you will want to replace those with new for a serious track car, and the same parts are applicable to any age Turbo except the very early ('86 model year) ones which have different geometry around the positioning of the hub face where the wheel sits (they use a different offset rim and have different wishbones, basically). An early engine is arguably the best as it might have forged rods, but I've never seen a definitive time stated when they changed to cast rods except that it was very early in production. The only other engine differences were the bolt-ons (even if it might say somewhere on the web that later cars had bigger exhaust valves [8|]). What you really, really want is a rust-free '90 Turbo with lots of gravel rash that has been rebuilt from the ground up with KW suspension, Weltmeister ARBs, part stripped interior and an ex-race series engine []. I wonder where you could find one of them...?[8D][]].... reason i want to get best equipped car to start with is i want to have a car i can enjoy for a little while without further spend on upgrades (other than making sure all is mechanically well of course)...but i hear what your saying and will bear in mind [] Also the car you mention sounds interesting but im guessing out of my budget....but you never know...pm/email me some more details if you like [] Ian
][] You're much better off getting a car that has been doing regular mileage over the past 3-4 years rather than one that has sat around quietly disintegrating.
ORIGINAL: thetyrant I know what you mean but i dont mean really tatty [ORIGINAL: edh I think the answer to most of those questions is yes [
]) of doing the work yourself, you should take a very serious look at it. If you want a standard'ish road car to do occasional track days, then maybe it's not quite what you want.]
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