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Piston & Rod upgrade or not?

slickv8 said:
...sorry should add that yes I've left rods and pistons stock. I'd love to upgrade but need to balance that against two little dependants
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Those Pressies should all be sorted and wrapped now surely? any loose change left for rods and Pistons ? [:)] Santa may be on his way right now with a sack

full of Tat for the kids and also some Metal forgery!

Is the Engine in yet? there's sack all on TV obviously!

R

 
PSH said:
You can go too far, though, after all, you do need that valve to open at some point....:)
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Yes, I've never thought holding full boost over 6k was a nice thing to do.

 
blade7 said:
PSH said:
You can go too far, though, after all, you do need that valve to open at some point....:)
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Yes, I've never thought holding full boost over 6k was a nice thing to do.
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haha...yes...wheel spinning in 5th at over twice the max speed limit isn't good for the nerves...mind you it may do wonders for the soul....:)

 
PSH said:
blade7 said:
PSH said:
You can go too far, though, after all, you do need that valve to open at some point....:)
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Yes, I've never thought holding full boost over 6k was a nice thing to do.
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haha...yes...wheel spinning in 5th at over twice the max speed limit isn't good for the nerves...mind you it may do wonders for the soul....:)
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My only direct experience with variable boost was on a Rover Vitesse Sport 2.0 litre Turbo where I had it remapped & an adjustable needle valve fitted in the line to the solenoid blow off valve.

On maximum boost it was reckoned to be making 250 hp - thank God for the Torsen front differential-& great to drive as it would stay on boost allowing rapid overtaking unless tweeked too high.

Sadly didn't have a hypo meter fitted only an extra boost gauge which was difficult to watch whilst fighting the torque steer😀

 
My only direct experience with variable boost was on a Rover Vitesse Sport 2.0 litre Turbo where I had it remapped & an adjustable needle valve fitted in the line to the solenoid blow off valve.

On maximum boost it was reckoned to be making 250 hp - thank God for the Torsen front differential-& great to drive as it would stay on boost allowing rapid overtaking unless tweeked too high.

Sadly didn't have a hypo meter fitted only an extra boost gauge which was difficult to watch whilst fighting the torque steer😀

 
I see you have got rid of the fuel damper and changed it to an adjustable one, was this easy to do?

 
u63af said:
I see you have got rid of the fuel damper and changed it to an adjustable one, was this easy to do?
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I have been playing around with the fuel damper. Currently there ia a new original damper fitted as I thought that a thumping noise from near the fuel pump may have been due to no damper fitted. This turned out not to be the case as the noise is still there although only until the engine has warmed up...current thinking is it could be two things...the higher pressure pump pulsating until warm or the exhaust knocking until warm...when i get time i may investigate further but since the noise goes after a few minutes it's not a priority. The part that you refer to as being an adjustable damper is in fact an adjustable fuel regulator which I prefer to using a fixed 3 bar item' i like to have full control of the fuelling...there's also a pressure gauge fitted to it so that I know at a glance what the fuel pressure is and if i feel i need more or less I can adjust the rate easily.

Pete

 
Sorry I didn't fully answer your question...fitting the adjustable fuel pressure regulator only takes a few minutes.

Pete

 
Hi sorry wasn't meaning adjustable damper had shortened question too much, ha. I use to have lindsey adjustable fpr but noticed yours looks like an fse one, did u need a custom fuel rail?

 
u63af said:
Hi sorry wasn't meaning adjustable damper had shortened question too much, ha. I use to have lindsey adjustable fpr but noticed yours looks like an fse one, did u need a custom fuel rail?
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Hi sandy

I had typed out a detailed reply but lost it...lol...to cut things short looking online it seems that the FSE universal regulator fits the bill today, IIRC it needs 8mm tails but best check. My memory isn't good these days so can't remember the make of mine, I do recall that I bought it from a small unit in Staines.. I think I'm right in saying that back in the day I was the only one to have such a regulator fitted( could be same today but I have recommended it to others over the years), most just using a fixed 3 BAR unit. I do recall that I've had two regulators, the first fitted directly to the fuel rail, today's item is independent of the rail (universal)and is bolted to the inner wing.

Regards

Pete

 
C487513E-482D-4851-AB9C-7092102FBD44.jpg


 
That filter gets plenty of ducted cold air from a high pressure source and under bonnet temps are significantly lower due to venting too.

Its going to a VEMS system at some point next year and the filter won't even be in the engine bay then.

Jon Mitchell has a kit to put the filter there too and we've already agreed he knows what he's on about.

 
My cone is there also with a JMG kit. I too had the same conversation with Jon and he assured me that when motoring the flow through the front ducts is more than adequate to supply the cone with enough cold air.

 
robwright said:
My cone is there also with a JMG kit. I too had the same conversation with Jon and he assured me that when motoring the flow through the front ducts is more than adequate to supply the cone with enough cold air.
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Removing the factory airbox system and fitting an Unshielded cone filter will draw in the HOTTER air until higher speeds when there is

more volume flowing into the engine quickly enough to negate the heat soak from inside the engine bay.

A drop in Element in the original airbox won't suffer from this problem, but an open cone filter near hot sources like the engine and Radiator will.

I can see the engine bay is full up and the filter location is quite a packaging issue with the IC pipes.

Flow is one thing, but HEAT is another as air expands as the temperature rises, and the hot air contains less oxygen.

Less oxygen is less combustible, cold oxygen is best and is the reason why you need and fit intercoolers

on forced induction engines.

The Cone v closed airbox debate is BIG!

This one claims to give a 5 - 8 bhp increase.

https://www.porscheshop.c...ction-kit-944-tbo.html



R

 
"cold oxygen is best" - what?

I'm sure these chaps understand all about charge density.. I saw the other day that JMG quoted measurements he'd made of IAT's for that filter location that showed it was fine. Surprising but I think we should trust Jon.

 
Indeed Ed - I'm more inclined to trust the guy who does this for a living and can back it up with scientific research than the guy who wishes he'd bought a Turbo and then machines down his wheels based on the science of "they look to have plenty of meat on them".

Do trolls need a festive diet or should we feed them in the same way as usual?

 
Thing is Dave, that Roger sometimes makes useful points, but they are lost in the noise...

 
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