Refresh time!
- Thread starter Peter Empson
- Start date
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
Bit of a quick update, I've not got a huge amount to tell as I've not been up to see the car for a good while, but the good news is that the engine is in and running. The engine builders have been plagued by slow parts delivery of the pistons and then the clutch, which has been a bit of pain as I was really hoping to get some use of the car this summer, but at the end of the day it's better that its done right and not rushed.
They have been incredibly thorough and have discovered a couple of issues caused by people who have been in there before which would potentially explain the oil pressure and temperature issues (which is good news if rather disappointing). I won't dwell on this here, other than to say one of these resulted in the oil cooler being seriously gummed up (despite numerous attempts by them to clean it) so I decided to replace it (and boy they're expensive from Porsche for such a small part!).
The clutch recommended was a Sachs motor sport model with a Helix paddle clutch in ceramettalic material and a Sachs release bearing, which hopefully will be ok on the road and cope better than the original one.
Here's a pic of the completed engine they sent to me a while back:
They have been incredibly thorough and have discovered a couple of issues caused by people who have been in there before which would potentially explain the oil pressure and temperature issues (which is good news if rather disappointing). I won't dwell on this here, other than to say one of these resulted in the oil cooler being seriously gummed up (despite numerous attempts by them to clean it) so I decided to replace it (and boy they're expensive from Porsche for such a small part!).
The clutch recommended was a Sachs motor sport model with a Helix paddle clutch in ceramettalic material and a Sachs release bearing, which hopefully will be ok on the road and cope better than the original one.
Here's a pic of the completed engine they sent to me a while back:
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
So it's tantalisingly close, there's still an MOT, basic running in remap, brake fluid change (and possible caliper repair to a broken bleed screw), wheel spacers and new seats to be fitted, then some bodywork (repair the bumper I broke [
] and sort some corrosion) and then it should be good to start the running in process before having a proper remap done.
Here's a pic of the engine installed:
] and sort some corrosion) and then it should be good to start the running in process before having a proper remap done.Here's a pic of the engine installed:
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
I do intend to get the running in done as quickly as possible assuming the weather is ok. I'm hoping to use the existing 888 tyres as they have some tread left, as long as they aren't too hard (or flat spotted) by now, but being extra cautious when its cold out as I recall they are pretty useless without some heat in them. I think I might try some Nankangs next year once I've work out what I'm going to do to refurb the alloys over the winter, I'd like to powder coat them, but finding a matching white to the car is probably impossible, so will probably just have them sprayed the body colour again.
I forgot to mention EMC have also done a lot of work fabricating aluminium ducting to control air flow around the front end, I've not seen it yet, but it was always an area that was lacking as air appeared to be stalling after it had gone through the intercoller and before it hit the radiator - so hopefully that will help control temperatures a bit better.
I forgot to mention EMC have also done a lot of work fabricating aluminium ducting to control air flow around the front end, I've not seen it yet, but it was always an area that was lacking as air appeared to be stalling after it had gone through the intercoller and before it hit the radiator - so hopefully that will help control temperatures a bit better.
924Srr27l
New member
Peter Empson said:
Hi, Are you using a running in Oil ? I'd recommend the Millers or Joe Gibbs products high in ZDDP,
I'd not recommend R888's on the road they are too stiff sidewall, and a good road tyre (Mich PS3 / Conti / Goodyear or the Korean Kumho, Hankook's etc..) will be far safer
nankangs I found to be too hard a sidewall and too hard a compound unless you try the 120 treadwear version
Get your wheels chemically stripped (NOt shot blasted - it's too harsh) in a Powder Primer White, then get a bodyshop to use the body panel white paint code either 2pack or base and lacquer...
I know a great Aerodynamic consultant that could advise on any airflow issues, he's currently redesigning my front end for Race use where the radiator will be angled so the flow with cowlings
will flow straight through it and over the bonnet...
The Heat in between the engine and radiator is high and the air and airflow once it's gone through the rad causes a lot of drag as it dissipates and finds several routes to escape out through the
sides and floor area etc..
R
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
924Srr27l said:
Oil: will be unchanged from what EMC have filled it with (and apparently already run it for 1.5 hours to date) - I obviously only will be using what they recommend (Mobil One)
Tyres: Wow you've clearly tried a lot of tyres on your 924. I tried quite a few sets over the years but my knowledge is probably 10 years out of date. 888s were the best I found and I've had a few sets as they offered a good blend of grip, availability and price (not tried the latest version as they came out just after I mothballed the car). Interestingly a 944 racer I spoke to recently felt the sidewalls were too soft, which I can see even if it never caused me an issue. I am not interested in more compromised road tyres, been there, done that. Have you actually tried the Nankang AR-1 on your car?
Wheels: My issue is that brake dust burns into paint (a side effect of the carbon metallic pads, but I'm not going to change those), powder coating is obviously much better at stopping this than paint (even 2 pack), so no stripping/primer is going to change that.
Airflow: EMC are very experienced with this, so I will try their solution first. I might be interested in looking at airflow under the car at some point in the future, but that's a way off.
924Srr27l
New member
Peter Empson said:
Yes I forgot you've gone the Steel Liner route not the stock Alusil hence bedding in is not so crucial and Fully Synthetic can be used much earlier, Lindsey Racing advised me to steer clear of it until 3000+ miles had been completed having used running in Oil for 50 miles, then Mineral for 2500.
My engineer & 968 (320bhp) Racer tried Ar-1 Kangs and said they felt good to begin with but then they didn't last and then started ripping up, so he's going back to Dunlop Direzza DZ03G's
The R888's and many others have a road based construction with a softer treadwear rubber and less sipes & grooves in the design, we start at 18 / 20psi (they increase to 28) and haven't felt an issue Racing for 2 hours they wear very even and the performance is consistent. The Dunlops have a Race Kevlar construction and deal with the heat better so we will be trying some.
I've used 8x16" All round and R888 215/50/16, also did a back to back and tried 7x16's and 205/50/16 at Donnington and didn't notice much difference but the tyres were Dunlop Direzza's so maybe they are better as the rims and tyres were narrower! Under Braking was a little more twitchy on the narrower rims though but top speed was up as they are 15kg lighter (per set)
There's no much you can do then with the Wheel Heat and aggressive brake dust, other than put (Pourboys) wax on the inside.... and yes have them powdercoated with the 3 material method (Dry Powder primer / Wet solvent colour / Dry powder lacquer) for extra thickness.
R
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
Little milestone this week, apparently my car now has an MOT - the first one since 2013!
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
Well it's finally home, albeit temporarily, I collected it last Monday. No pics yet as it's filthy and has some patches of primer on it.
It's been a bit of a roller coaster, I'm remembering all the good and bad points (the latter I'd conveniently forgotten).
Anyway, I've put a fair number of miles on it in the week, and should have completed the running in mileage this week if the weather stays reasonable. The sooner I can get it mapped and take it above 3000rpm the happier I will be!
The list of jobs to do is huge, so I may document a few as I go if anyone's interested.
The highest priority was stopping it trying to poison me with exhaust fumes. I've been running an oversized rear hatch seal (my current plastic hatch is not the best fit) which had been ok but that had clearly seen better days. I'd proved this was main route in by using some low tack tape to seal the outside and allow me to carry on driving it safely). I wanted to see if there was something better and I've found the oddest looking seal. I fitted it today and it seems to have worked a treat - it almost looks like it's designed for the job when it's in situ.
There is soot residue that shows the exhaust is leaking after the silencer where it goes into the tail pipe, so I need to find someone who can weld stainless. Even though it's a small distance from the tip I guess it might be enough to be a potential source so worth investigating I think.
It's been a bit of a roller coaster, I'm remembering all the good and bad points (the latter I'd conveniently forgotten).
Anyway, I've put a fair number of miles on it in the week, and should have completed the running in mileage this week if the weather stays reasonable. The sooner I can get it mapped and take it above 3000rpm the happier I will be!
The list of jobs to do is huge, so I may document a few as I go if anyone's interested.
The highest priority was stopping it trying to poison me with exhaust fumes. I've been running an oversized rear hatch seal (my current plastic hatch is not the best fit) which had been ok but that had clearly seen better days. I'd proved this was main route in by using some low tack tape to seal the outside and allow me to carry on driving it safely). I wanted to see if there was something better and I've found the oddest looking seal. I fitted it today and it seems to have worked a treat - it almost looks like it's designed for the job when it's in situ.
There is soot residue that shows the exhaust is leaking after the silencer where it goes into the tail pipe, so I need to find someone who can weld stainless. Even though it's a small distance from the tip I guess it might be enough to be a potential source so worth investigating I think.
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
Next job is fixing the odometer which decide to pack up at the most inconveient time when I need to track mileage. The main cog (brown one in pic below) had turned to mush, literally has the texture of a fruit pastille and just fell to pieces as I removed it. A new one is on its way so hopefully that can be sorted soon - not a particularly fun job to do though!
PSH
PCGB Member
Yes, that's a fun job 'not'...a tip when rebuilding, make sure all gears are fully pressed home. When I put mine back together after having the same problem the last wheel hadn't fully engaged. Over a few months it had added 200k to the mileage..a real pain when the MOT was due....I took it apart again and set it to the correct reading. One thing that I did learn, these cars are very easy to clock for those with criminal intent. Perhaps this is why we have an influx lately of so many supposedly low milage 944's?.
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
Thanks Peter. I hate doing jobs like this over a few days, it gets too easy to forget how it all goes back together, but luckily I have a spare to look at if I get really stuck. I'm going to see if I can add back on the missing mileage, a sort of reverse clocking, if not I'll put it on axle stands and run it Ferris Bueller style []
]
CarreraRSR
New member
I noticed it was at BHP recently........
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
Yep, it should be back there again very soon, fingers crossed.
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
Lots of little jobs done this weekend, feel like the list is decreasing slightly now (but only slightly) although the costs for parts and tools is certainly not.
Success! The new odometer gear is fitted and working, so that was a start. Ok, success is a relative term - I didn't align the speedometer needle quite right so it under reads a bit, but as that had been damaged by the person that did the previous repair for me (many years ago) I am going to swap bits over from the much nicer spare one at some pint (I've already used the housing which wasn't as scratched). Oh and the trip reset isn't working, think it's the switch, but I can live without it.
When the engine was being done I had the seats changed from Cobra Imola 2 to the Suzuka Pro. This may have been a mistake as I'd been very happy with the former (the most comfortable seats I've found), but the drivers side one was looking very tatty and a nearly new pair of the Kevlar Suzukas was found on ebay from a chap who'd taken them out of his newly aquired Mini. They're supposed to be a much safer seat, which I can see, but the drivers one is much too high on the slider I have (I'm short and there was no way I could have worn a helmet, or for that matter read most of the gauges...). I've dropped it to as low as it'll go and added a bit more 'gangsta lean' so will see how that works for me. Fitting the bolts against the transmission tunnel is a sod of a job...
Success! The new odometer gear is fitted and working, so that was a start. Ok, success is a relative term - I didn't align the speedometer needle quite right so it under reads a bit, but as that had been damaged by the person that did the previous repair for me (many years ago) I am going to swap bits over from the much nicer spare one at some pint (I've already used the housing which wasn't as scratched). Oh and the trip reset isn't working, think it's the switch, but I can live without it.
When the engine was being done I had the seats changed from Cobra Imola 2 to the Suzuka Pro. This may have been a mistake as I'd been very happy with the former (the most comfortable seats I've found), but the drivers side one was looking very tatty and a nearly new pair of the Kevlar Suzukas was found on ebay from a chap who'd taken them out of his newly aquired Mini. They're supposed to be a much safer seat, which I can see, but the drivers one is much too high on the slider I have (I'm short and there was no way I could have worn a helmet, or for that matter read most of the gauges...). I've dropped it to as low as it'll go and added a bit more 'gangsta lean' so will see how that works for me. Fitting the bolts against the transmission tunnel is a sod of a job...
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