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Something i have been working on!

Car went really well on the test day at Snetterton there is not alot i would change on it for now,the thing that worries me about racing are the logistics of getting there finding a corner of the car park,doing all the formalities in time etc.Also there is a mandatory pitstop where you have to get out of the car and back in from 15 mins in the race,getting out of the car quickly with my helmet will not be easy..But really looking forward to it.Car misbehaved slightly with a split coolant hose so its back at EMC having that sorted and a pre race check.Not long now!
GAZ suspension for trackwork is deffo the way to go,car just feels planted and solid in a different way to KW or M030,its ok on the road too i did take off a bit the other day when i hit a bump on a dual carriageway its a good job i had harnesses on[:D]
First race, all being well, is at Snetterton 2nd weekend in April (I am booked in for two in one day,Future Classics(main 40 min race) and Sportscars V Saloons(20 min race) just need the car to hold together and me too!
 

ORIGINAL: Diver944

That screaming whistle is very similar to the noise my car makes at full boost with its Dansk rear box, must be a trait of the design when a heck of a lot of air is pushed through it [:eek:]

That's exactly what I was told about the Dansk back box and was a factor in my decision to go down the custom route instead.
 
It was brand new and on the car when i got it,budget has been spent fixing other stuff!!!I really like the Fabspeed products (i have their 4 inch system on my red turbo) but i have been talking to Andy at Promax about their Wortec exhaust.Good thing about the Dansk was the noise man at Snetterton loved me at only 80 something db static.Its one less thing to think about[:D]
 
Mark, good to hear about the GAZ stuff. Keep updating us on your progress with this and how easy/hard it is to setup. GAZ came out of the washup from LEDA did it not?

Watching the Youtube stuff, it is clear you guys have to learn to drive in the wet a lot more than we do. I find it almost impossible with a turbo car and R specs. I think if I lived in the UK I would opt for an n/a car.
 

ORIGINAL: 333pg333

Mark, good to hear about the GAZ stuff. Keep updating us on your progress with this and how easy/hard it is to setup. GAZ came out of the washup from LEDA did it not?

My understanding (which may be wrong), is that GAZ was around in the past and what happened is that when the ownership / management changed at LEDA some of the key guys went off to GAZ. AFAIK GAZ already existed which is why you some times hear -ve opinions of GAZ but it also often tends to relate to their products from several years back.
 
Mark,
I am in the middle of preping my car for the track. I am probably being really stupid on this but have a question about the modification to the rear sill. I havent worked on torsion bars before so dont know much about adjustment. What does the hole allow you to access that you cannot access from under the car? How to you adjust the ride height on the torsion bars?
Cheers
Sandy
 
That is so you can pull the end cap out far enough to re-index the torsion bars without having to drop the tube off the car, its the difference between 1/2 hours work and several hours work which is why so many race cars have this mod. As having big holes in the rear quarter does nothing to improve the cars speed (probably slightly worse aero), and saves next to 0 weight it is a tolerated mod. One always wants to set the torsion bars correctly and not rely on being able to adjust using helper springs. One differential spline on the bars is equivalent to only a few mm's change in ride height so you can make pretty fine adjustments using the bars.
 
As Neil says: being able to withdraw the torsion bar enables you to index the rear in about half an hour, instead of hours and hours after removing the gearbox and axle...
 
Do any of you guys know the dimensions of where I need to cut the hole. I have never taken the torsion bar out so dont know if it comes straight out or whether it drops down a bit first. Dont want to cut holes in the wrong place. [:)]
 
Well done Mark, coming first in class in your first Future Classics race is an awesome achievement!

Faster than a 911 too [8D]

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Results here:
http://www.tsl-timing.com/cscc/2010/101464.pdf

 
Wow excellent result Mark, many congraulations ! Looks like you were having fun [:)][8D]

ETA - looking at the results section looks like Mark got the fastest lap overall of any class of all those who were classified ?
 

ORIGINAL: u63af

Do any of you guys know the dimensions of where I need to cut the hole. I have never taken the torsion bar out so dont know if it comes straight out or whether it drops down a bit first. Dont want to cut holes in the wrong place. [:)]

Yes, I have a pattern somewhere. When I dig it out I will make a copy and post it off to you, if you like? Be aware that I am notoriously slack though.....
 
Mark - fantastic first outing. Well impressive. We need a race report - any good dicing? all OK with the car?

-- not to forget the good photos from Paz
 
Thanks Paz[:)].had a great day the whole thing felt a bit new and different but lots of fun,car went as well as could have hoped for its very forgiving and flattering to drive,lots of nice people, made it a lot easier to do,lots of help etc..could get hooked on this!When i have recovered it will be good to go through the stats to see what is going on.Biggest flaw in the gameplan is launching the car off the line,the clutch needs changing i reckon,if anyone knows the part number for the turbo cup clutch that would be appreciated.
 
Mark -- about your start, are you sure it was clutch slip? In my racing starts with the 968, I can easily spin up the rear tyres if the clutch is dumped too quickly & might even get some tramping - because our cars are quite light in the rear. Whereas the 911's make it look much easier with all that weight in the back.

It might be worth practising your starts to try different techniques, if you have not already done so.
NB I have found that getting the car rolling say 1/2 metre and then dumping the clutch at about 3 to 4000 rpm seems to work quite well.
 

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