The modifications continue - Manthey coilovers incoming...
- Thread starter Twinfan
- Start date
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Look forward to hearing about your personal progressYep, it's night and day once you get on circuit with them. I'm really looking forward to attempting to get my driving skills up to a level where I can feel I do the car justice!
OK, time for a final update on this thread 
So I turned up at Donington Park last Tuesday all ready to give the new suspension settings a go only to find a screw right in the edge/sidewall of my nearside front tyre I must have picked it up on the way to the hotel the night before as I'm always monitoring tyre condition and pressures. Grrr. So it was back home to pick up the spare front I had in my garage then off to my OPC to get it swapped. It was then too late to get back to the circuit so the day was abandoned.
I was at Anglesey last Thursday and Friday for a two day session with my OPC and others though, so I have managed to give the car a thorough test. It felt absolutely fabulous and was completely faultless for the two days. I gave passenger rides to several people and even with my average driving, people commented that compared to a standard car the ride is very flat in cornering and the front end is magnificent. It's really "pointy" and goes exactly where you want it without scrubbing the edges of the tyres to oblivion. Anglesey is a notorious front left tyre killer, but with appropriate tyre pressures and no more than 20 minute sessions mine was absolutely fine. It seems the coilovers are giving less body roll and so the tyres are kept flatter, reducing wear? That's how it seems anyway. People following me on road and track commented that the rear of the car looks really locked down and "grippy".
The great thing I'm finding with the kit is that you can really feel what the car is doing, so you can drive to the point where understeer would kick in and scrub your tyres, then just stay inside the limit on the throttle. I'm much more aware of what the car is doing then when the standard PASM was fitted.
Last weekend I swapped the car over to my "winter" setup which is the original wheels with Michelin PS4S tyres and a reduction of one click of low speed compression on the shocks back to the standard suggested settings (I find one more click all round just tightens things up a touch for track work). Driving to and from Donington Park on Sunday to watch the PCGB Boxster Cup racing the car felt incredible on the road - totally locked down in both the dry on the way home and the pouring rain on the way there. It really hugs the road. It's very hard to describe but on the standard settings on the road it's a real sweet spot where the car feels amazing and solid, even with heavy camber and toe settings. It makes you feel like you just want to drive it forever...
So now the car is sorted it's time to move on to the next phase of my track day journey, which is improving the middle-aged man behind the wheel. I've had some training already, bought I've now bought an advanced driving techniques book and reached out to a local driver coach who I'll be booking for the PCGB days at Oulton Park next year as long as he's available on the dates.
Roll on 2025!
So I turned up at Donington Park last Tuesday all ready to give the new suspension settings a go only to find a screw right in the edge/sidewall of my nearside front tyre
I must have picked it up on the way to the hotel the night before as I'm always monitoring tyre condition and pressures. Grrr. So it was back home to pick up the spare front I had in my garage then off to my OPC to get it swapped. It was then too late to get back to the circuit so the day was abandoned.I was at Anglesey last Thursday and Friday for a two day session with my OPC and others though, so I have managed to give the car a thorough test. It felt absolutely fabulous and was completely faultless for the two days. I gave passenger rides to several people and even with my average driving, people commented that compared to a standard car the ride is very flat in cornering and the front end is magnificent. It's really "pointy" and goes exactly where you want it without scrubbing the edges of the tyres to oblivion. Anglesey is a notorious front left tyre killer, but with appropriate tyre pressures and no more than 20 minute sessions mine was absolutely fine. It seems the coilovers are giving less body roll and so the tyres are kept flatter, reducing wear? That's how it seems anyway. People following me on road and track commented that the rear of the car looks really locked down and "grippy".
The great thing I'm finding with the kit is that you can really feel what the car is doing, so you can drive to the point where understeer would kick in and scrub your tyres, then just stay inside the limit on the throttle. I'm much more aware of what the car is doing then when the standard PASM was fitted.
Last weekend I swapped the car over to my "winter" setup which is the original wheels with Michelin PS4S tyres and a reduction of one click of low speed compression on the shocks back to the standard suggested settings (I find one more click all round just tightens things up a touch for track work). Driving to and from Donington Park on Sunday to watch the PCGB Boxster Cup racing the car felt incredible on the road - totally locked down in both the dry on the way home and the pouring rain on the way there. It really hugs the road. It's very hard to describe but on the standard settings on the road it's a real sweet spot where the car feels amazing and solid, even with heavy camber and toe settings. It makes you feel like you just want to drive it forever...
So now the car is sorted it's time to move on to the next phase of my track day journey, which is improving the middle-aged man behind the wheel. I've had some training already, bought I've now bought an advanced driving techniques book and reached out to a local driver coach who I'll be booking for the PCGB days at Oulton Park next year as long as he's available on the dates.
Roll on 2025!
What have you set the dampening to for street / track? I put mine all the way down to about 5 for street which felt less tooth shattering than what they were before. I didn't adjust them for Donington (I was there last Tues as well). My girlfriend was supposed to join me with my Cup 2's and a low profile jack but she was under the weather so I made do with my PS4S's. They were definitely the right tyre for the second half of the day when it started raining. Suddenly the more experienced drivers in their Cup 2's etc weren't appearing in my rear view mirror anymore 
Glad you're enjoying the new suspension setup. I've also noticed a lot less body roll, and have more confidence around corners in general. Surprisingly the rear in particular feels more planted to me (even before putting the new wing on). Have you been getting yours setup specifically for each track?
Glad you're enjoying the new suspension setup. I've also noticed a lot less body roll, and have more confidence around corners in general. Surprisingly the rear in particular feels more planted to me (even before putting the new wing on). Have you been getting yours setup specifically for each track?
So you always start from fully closed, and then count the number of clicks to open.
Closed is 'stiffer', Open is 'softer'
I always ran default settings for the road and bumpy circuit (e.g Castle Combe) or N'ring etc - so that was
For GP circuit or a circuit where I was very familiar I sometime wanted a bit more support so went one click back on Low Speed Comp/Bump
This is on Cup 2.
For PS4S it might be slightly different for road settings as the tyres sidewall is different - and so overall wheel rate will be altered.
The beauty is that you can experiment and find your own preferences.
The new stability in the rear comes from getting some proper toe set - and the improved damping curve from the uprated coilover... it means that toe isn't changing dynamically as much as the wheel travels up and down. This curve when it met the road effectively 'steers' the car... which really you don't want.... just a consequence McPherson strut geometry and kinematics.
Closed is 'stiffer', Open is 'softer'
I always ran default settings for the road and bumpy circuit (e.g Castle Combe) or N'ring etc - so that was
| High Speed Comp/Bump | Low Speed Comp/Bump | Rebound | |
| Front | 8 | 8 | 9 |
| Rear | 8 | 8 | 8 |
For GP circuit or a circuit where I was very familiar I sometime wanted a bit more support so went one click back on Low Speed Comp/Bump
| High Speed Comp/Bump | Low Speed Comp/Bump | Rebound | |
| Front | 8 | 7 | 9 |
| Rear | 8 | 7 | 8 |
This is on Cup 2.
For PS4S it might be slightly different for road settings as the tyres sidewall is different - and so overall wheel rate will be altered.
The beauty is that you can experiment and find your own preferences.
The new stability in the rear comes from getting some proper toe set - and the improved damping curve from the uprated coilover... it means that toe isn't changing dynamically as much as the wheel travels up and down. This curve when it met the road effectively 'steers' the car... which really you don't want.... just a consequence McPherson strut geometry and kinematics.
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You'll be data logging before you know it mate!.
Ha ha - no chance of me going down that rabbit hole! I'll leave that to you track junkies
Interesting that I came to the same shock settings as you - that single click really does the trick for track work and the stock setting is fabulous on the road. Those Manthey folks know what they're doing...
It's a progression and preference. I experimented with all of the variables, full stiff, full soft - combinations of all - comparing feeling and data to understand what worked best for me.
You've improved the chassis but then pushed load to the next weak point in the chain - the tyre.
As you go stiffer the tyre cannot handle the load, and the car becomes spiky as you get near the limit - then because you have stiffened - the roll disappears - and you have taken an early warning indicator away - so then you cannot sense how close to the limit you are.
So I found keeping a little bit of movement in the body - but properly controlled - was always better - made the car more friendly and predictable. From a chassis and handling perspective, I could with hint to the car or provoke it to do what I wanted, and it would respond directly proportionally to what I had asked.
You've improved the chassis but then pushed load to the next weak point in the chain - the tyre.
As you go stiffer the tyre cannot handle the load, and the car becomes spiky as you get near the limit - then because you have stiffened - the roll disappears - and you have taken an early warning indicator away - so then you cannot sense how close to the limit you are.
So I found keeping a little bit of movement in the body - but properly controlled - was always better - made the car more friendly and predictable. From a chassis and handling perspective, I could with hint to the car or provoke it to do what I wanted, and it would respond directly proportionally to what I had asked.
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