Richard,
You're going to wear that picture out !!!!
You're going to wear that picture out !!!!
Winter Projects anyone???
- Thread starter Guest
- Start date
IanHighfield
New member
Andy,
Will advise of cost once the job is done, but at the Classic Car Show, a chap had used A1 Wheels in Wolverhampton and they charged him £25 to powder coat each wheel. He then polished himself, as he owned a chrome plating company ! If John Glynn is reading this, he is getting his wheels done, so could compare pricing !
Will advise of cost once the job is done, but at the Classic Car Show, a chap had used A1 Wheels in Wolverhampton and they charged him £25 to powder coat each wheel. He then polished himself, as he owned a chrome plating company ! If John Glynn is reading this, he is getting his wheels done, so could compare pricing !
Guest
New member
Good Thread Richard,
Great to see a wheel which finally has negative offset - I am so sick and tired of these modern wheels with the full postive look - gime a deep offset wheel anyday. I've actually toyed with the idea of putting some nice deep dished steel wheels on just to get that look back. The classic look has always been a polished rim with a black centre - 10" wide rims with about 6" of rim exposed - now thats horny.
Bones - I reversed my wipers a year ago - no problem - it definitly makes for a clearer view - and I haven't noticed the water thing - perhaps my wippers park in a different postion? Either way - I wouldn't swap it back.
The LED's are the way to go ... I was actually thinking of importing and selling them my self. I have LED's in the glovebox, interior, reversing, and clock lights. The differance is brillant - ( get it?). One main advantage of using LED's is the very low current use - which makes them very useful for sercurity at night. By this I mean you can afford to leave an interior light on for some time as it only draws a fraction of the standard bulb.
You need BA7's for your instrument light bulbs.
Just changing the clock bulb has made the remaining standard bulbs in the other instruments brighter - this, I suspect is due to the one LED freeing up some % of amperage to the other bulbs? Just shows how marginal the original wiring is? Just as fitting relays to the headlights.
A good trick hey Bones?
On my old Kombi I even fitted relays for the horn -for those who have owned VW's you'll know how touchy these are - the relay fixed it easy! I also had relays for the starter mtr; with a dirty big heavy wire coming off the relay to the starter - no more stuck solinoid - it tihs it self!
My plans for the coming 6 months are to replace a couple of lose rocker shafts - I have found at least 2 which refuse to give constant valve tip clearance, plus when the mtr is warm I can hear a buzzing noise from around the heads - this is the rocker "floating" on the shaft. So thats my main jobbie. Plus check out the fuel vaccum unloader valve - I suspect this is sticking. Replace the left hand door hinges and bushes. Then while (maybe) the door is off, I might get the outer sill replaced (slight rust problem). Apart form that - just laze about, dreaming of Dukes of Hazard..... Oh well.
Great to see a wheel which finally has negative offset - I am so sick and tired of these modern wheels with the full postive look - gime a deep offset wheel anyday. I've actually toyed with the idea of putting some nice deep dished steel wheels on just to get that look back. The classic look has always been a polished rim with a black centre - 10" wide rims with about 6" of rim exposed - now thats horny.
Bones - I reversed my wipers a year ago - no problem - it definitly makes for a clearer view - and I haven't noticed the water thing - perhaps my wippers park in a different postion? Either way - I wouldn't swap it back.
The LED's are the way to go ... I was actually thinking of importing and selling them my self. I have LED's in the glovebox, interior, reversing, and clock lights. The differance is brillant - ( get it?). One main advantage of using LED's is the very low current use - which makes them very useful for sercurity at night. By this I mean you can afford to leave an interior light on for some time as it only draws a fraction of the standard bulb.
You need BA7's for your instrument light bulbs.
Just changing the clock bulb has made the remaining standard bulbs in the other instruments brighter - this, I suspect is due to the one LED freeing up some % of amperage to the other bulbs? Just shows how marginal the original wiring is? Just as fitting relays to the headlights.
A good trick hey Bones?
On my old Kombi I even fitted relays for the horn -for those who have owned VW's you'll know how touchy these are - the relay fixed it easy! I also had relays for the starter mtr; with a dirty big heavy wire coming off the relay to the starter - no more stuck solinoid - it tihs it self!
My plans for the coming 6 months are to replace a couple of lose rocker shafts - I have found at least 2 which refuse to give constant valve tip clearance, plus when the mtr is warm I can hear a buzzing noise from around the heads - this is the rocker "floating" on the shaft. So thats my main jobbie. Plus check out the fuel vaccum unloader valve - I suspect this is sticking. Replace the left hand door hinges and bushes. Then while (maybe) the door is off, I might get the outer sill replaced (slight rust problem). Apart form that - just laze about, dreaming of Dukes of Hazard..... Oh well.
Jacob
New member
I like the idea of interior light LED's - I have 1 out at the moment, so I may as well change them all (does anybody know how many there is?)
The only other projects that I am toying with are
Upgrade to Turbo tie rods. Has any body done this and is it worthwhile?
Fit a cental locking switch - is this an easy DIY job or is it better off left to the specialits (I am quite lazy[
])
The only other projects that I am toying with are
Upgrade to Turbo tie rods. Has any body done this and is it worthwhile?
Fit a cental locking switch - is this an easy DIY job or is it better off left to the specialits (I am quite lazy[
])
plhorner
Moderator
Jacob,ORIGINAL: Jacob
Fit a cental locking switch - is this an easy DIY job or is it better off left to the specialits (I am quite lazy[
Piece of p1ss as they say, get those screw drivers out and get too it.......seriously its a really easy one if not a tad fiddly in places. If you want any advice of instructions, just ask, I've had mine in bits this year.
Guest
New member
Worthwhile? I did it when I replaced the steering rack as you have the tie-rods off anyway. I also added rack spacers for the bump steer. Can I actually notice a difference? Tough to say. Rack spacers certainly reduce the bumpsteer and a new rack feels smooth and well oiled compared to the old one (so those changes were obvious and worthwhile). But whether the steering feels any more precise is a little uncertain. I guess for a track car maybe I would do it again. For a road car, I doubt I would bother unless I had to replace other things as well. Of course, it may just be my blunt approach to driving that means I cannot feel something which is obvious to others. Maybe my old tie-rods were in particularly good condition, so the change was less obvious?
What do you expect to accomplish by changing tie-rods? If you think it will be a night and day change in steering feel, I think you will be disappointed. If you just want to get your hands dirty, this a *relatively* cheap and easy project.
HTH
Richard
Richard
Where would you be sourcing the close 3rd and 4th gears? I'm half tempted to do this as it could be a relatively cheap way of getting more acceleration.
Cheers
Rich
Where would you be sourcing the close 3rd and 4th gears? I'm half tempted to do this as it could be a relatively cheap way of getting more acceleration.
Cheers
Rich
Guest
New member
I will be talking to JAZ (Steve Winter) about it - but any shop that does race prep will have sources. The gears may come from the US, Porsche Motorsport or a local company - I don't know. There are always one or two adverts in 911 world for US transmission specialists who offer many different gear sets.
As for relatively cheap, I don't know. Once you are in there and do a G50 sport clutch, decide that 2nd and 3rd synchros, dogs and sliders should be replaced, new 3rd and 4th gears, a lightweight flywheel... I can see the bill being a big one!!! I figure I am in the hole for £1,000 for a G50 clutch job anyway so whats a little more money between friends and the bank manager?
Richard
As for relatively cheap, I don't know. Once you are in there and do a G50 sport clutch, decide that 2nd and 3rd synchros, dogs and sliders should be replaced, new 3rd and 4th gears, a lightweight flywheel... I can see the bill being a big one!!! I figure I am in the hole for £1,000 for a G50 clutch job anyway so whats a little more money between friends and the bank manager?
Richard
Jacob
New member
Phil, Thanks for the advice - I will give this one a go - providing there is not too much wiring involved! Where did you source your parts from?
Richard, I think I am going to delay this project until more needs to be done in this area. I have only taken my car on a track once, will be definately going on a couple next year but I am such a novice that I probably wouldn't notice the difference
Richard, I think I am going to delay this project until more needs to be done in this area. I have only taken my car on a track once, will be definately going on a couple next year but I am such a novice that I probably wouldn't notice the difference
Guest
New member
Hey Bones - I like the sound of your 2 electrical mods - the headlight relays and dash LEDs. I may consider doing these myself.
Can you tell me how many LEDs I would need for the dash - I've not been in there before! Are the lamps difficult to access?
Also, I recently upgraded my current headlamp bulbs but since then I have noticed that both the intensity of my beams and dash lights vary as I am driving! Getting brighter then dimming again! Any ideas what might be causing this?
As for winter projects - I've just had my suspension geometry reset and am hoping to replace the side seals of my targa top - getting wind noise and haven't been able to sort the problem with my old bike inner-tubes!
Can you tell me how many LEDs I would need for the dash - I've not been in there before! Are the lamps difficult to access?
Also, I recently upgraded my current headlamp bulbs but since then I have noticed that both the intensity of my beams and dash lights vary as I am driving! Getting brighter then dimming again! Any ideas what might be causing this?
As for winter projects - I've just had my suspension geometry reset and am hoping to replace the side seals of my targa top - getting wind noise and haven't been able to sort the problem with my old bike inner-tubes!
Guest
New member
Sandpaper. Various grades of wet and dry sandpaper, lots of water and lots of elbow grease.
Actually, it doesn't take too long. In the last 3 years I have repainted 12 Fuchs centres and in the distant past I redid 4 fuchs in the polished RSR pattern. My personal preference now would be to do the sanding and masking off myself and get a friendly bodyshop to respray the centres. My rattle can experience is not that good. You can get a great finish but it just doesn't seem to last like a professional job.
The other top tip is to use electrical insulation tape for the edge of your masking. It stretches and leaves a clean line unlike say ordinary masking tape.
Richard
Guest
New member
No disrespect but Juan's car is just a tiny bit more extreme than your plans indicate. He runs 30psi of boost (and is aiming for 40psi [&:]) once he gets into 3rd gear and has a custom spool instead of a diff. Its doing 142mph at the end of the 1/4 mile - thats mad!!
Can you really do a reliable euro 3.2 turbo without lowering the compression ratio? Is this intercooled (or are you relying on the British weather for this [][][])?
Richard
Can you really do a reliable euro 3.2 turbo without lowering the compression ratio? Is this intercooled (or are you relying on the British weather for this [
][][])?Richard
Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members
Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions
