944 Turbo S Engine Rebuild Thread

[Dan944t]

september December - Same Thing!

 

[dlknight]

Yeah the SFR stuff ”looks” nice but fitment is supposedly hit and miss and actually getting hold of the stuff takes an age and is a bit of a roll of the dice.

Going to have a chat to my exhaust man about potential costs of knocking up a set of new manifolds and a crossover - watch this space.


You could probably put the exhaust stud kit together yourself for less but I couldn’t be bothered measuring and sourcing bits separately, for less than £50 delivered it was an easy decision.



Replacement ring pack turned up today but rather than a picture of a box here’s one of my birthday present steering wheel that I finally got around to fitting today:

Yes I started looking plenty of sellers on ebay selling stainless and titanium studs in various sizes, do they have to have the blank between the two threaded sections or can you use a continuous threaded section?

That steering wheel does look very sexy indeed - how is the feel of it?

 

[PhilKent]

Nice wheel!
I ordered one from ebay (not quite as nice maybe!), but Hermes nicked it. Hoping to get a refund before I try again.

I used an ebay seller for titanium studs and bolts for the exhaust dump valve. Bit ott really, but boy it's light compared to stainless! You can probably get away without the shoulder section and have a full thread, but with what's available, its not really an issue and I can't recall if it's opposite threads or not...probably not...

 

[Eldavo]

I know some people (including Phil Kent if I’m not mistaken) just use a bolt of the right length so I guess not having the unthreaded part isn’t the end of the world.

I wanted some bolts that were pre drilled for lock wire for my wastegate (after a low and ultimately futile attempt at making my own) and could only find Titanium ones online. I now have 8 very light and sexy Ti bolts ready to be lockwired in. Think they were £35-40 though []

Steering wheel feels great, I’ve always liked the CS wheel anyway although some find it too thick. When it’s brand new soft supple leather then even more so. Was about £575 from OPC with discount so cost comparable with buying a used one and having it recovered. I wanted the red stitching so it was a no-brainer to go for a new one.

 

[924Srr27l]

I’ve always liked the CS wheel Was about £575 from OPC with discount so cost comparable with buying a used one and having it recovered.

Genuine Clubsport steering wheel. Porsche 911 944 968 964 928 S SC Turbo etc 5B | eBay

R

 

[Eldavo]

I’ve always liked the CS wheel Was about £575 from OPC with discount so cost comparable with buying a used one and having it recovered.

Genuine Clubsport steering wheel. Porsche 911 944 968 964 928 S SC Turbo etc 5B | eBay

R

Thanks Roger, that’s a fundamentally different wheel to what I wanted though as I wanted red stitching, but I think we both knew that and you just can’t help yourself.

The new wheel also came with a new boss, connecting ring, etc. that a refurbed one doesn’t.

 

[PhilKent]

Helpful David, the one I got on ebay which didn't turn up was a S/H black only, re-colonized rather than re-trimmed with boss already fitted for a 944, so a good discount on a new price, but good to know they're not too much more from an OPC. The Atiwe ones which don't come with a boss would work out comparable I think...I'll keep saving up!

 

[PhilKent]

"I know some people (including Phil Kent if I’m not mistaken) just use a bolt of the right length so I guess not having the unthreaded part isn’t the end of the world"
David's right for the exhaust manifold I replaced all the studs with stainless bolts. Makes taking the manifold off and on a bit easier, but can be a pain to line up the bolt holes sometimes. I mentioned 'exhaust dump valve' in my last post. Hopefully you understood I meant Wastegate...

 

[PSH]

I wasn't going to post here again due to the latest fiasco, nuf said about that, but on reading the discussion here about shoulder bolts and plain threads thought it best to give my 'engineering' input on this. Where a shoulder bolt is used you should replace with the same although I can see if you are only talking exhaust bolts (I haven't read the entire thread) then not so important. However, in general, a shoulder bolt is used to better locate the mating parts and where some rotation may be present. If you change from a shoulder bolt to an all threaded bolt (never do this on brakes) which requires a torque setting you need to be aware that the original setting is now not enough. The point is that a threaded bolt stretches further than a shoulder bolt.

Pete

 

[vitesse]

But if you change material to SS or Titanium,torque figures also alter & this affects the material the bolt or stud screws into,

 

[PhilKent]

Pete,
I'm glad you decided to stick around regardless and I hope you chose to stay longer (both on the forum and as a 944 owner []) and I agree and accept both your vied and Vittese's regards toque's but I'm also fairly confident where I've swapped to either SS or Ti it's not a 'critical' element for torque settings and in the many years I've run SS bolts in my manifold I've had no issues to date. The Ti is still a bit un-tested, but seems to be holding it's own so far.
When I said 'shoulder' these particular bolts (or studs, that I've replaced with bolts to be exact) don't strictly have a shoulder, just a plain un-threaded section, not critical for location purposes.

Surely, we all know that if you're a really good engineer, you hardly ever use a torque wrench anyway, we all have calibrated elbows

 

[dlknight]

Nice to see some conversation - a few suppliers on the web catering for japanese car modifiers with suitable sized studs, I think the original measure 46mm in total (end to end). Also seen a nice idea of replacing the standard nuts with 12 point nuts, allows for a smaller 12 point spanner or socket to be used. Look forward to seeing if you get anything sorted with aftermarket exhaust manifolds []

 

[924Srr27l]

Pete,

When I said 'shoulder' these particular bolts (or studs, that I've replaced with bolts to be exact) don't strictly have a shoulder, just a plain un-threaded section, not critical for location purposes.

Ahh that's known as the Shanked section if it's un-threaded, I've got shoulder Bolts and double spring washers on my front brake hubs (See pic)

R

 

[Eldavo]

Phew, thanks for clearing that up Roger. I almost forgot about your car for a minute there.

 

[PSH]

Shanked or shouldered, they both have different torque setting to a fully threaded bolt..not all will require a higher torque, Rogers being a classic example. Torque will depend on thread dia and material used, plus the materials they are clamping together.

BtW..I had to sign the forum conditions again for this second post, if it happens again, the next time I won't make the post

 

[Eldavo]

Meanwhile back in Threadsville . . .

Load of progress today with the rest of the build coming together nicely. Helped in no small part by the fact that when Dean dismantled the engine he diligently put each part with all the relevant hardware and accessories laid out over 3 racks in assembly order.


From the pic I was sent I gather it was a late and cold one in the garage when he’d finished

Head is just laid in position, Vulcan Cut Ring Head Gasket will be another month or so from America. Engine can go back in the car next week and we can fit the head and finish up when that arrives.

 

[Eldavo]

A little more progress on the engine today:

 

[Eldavo]

Also stripped down the cam tower as my DIY paint job just wasn‘t cutting it anymore so off to the powder coaters it went:

 

[Eldavo]

Lifters were all inspected and are In excellent condition. They were even checked with a calibrated straight edge - I didn’t know there was such a thing, I was careful not to drop it

 

[Eldavo]

There was a little wear, as to be expected, on the cam lobes. But nothing worth worrying about, especially as it won’t be going back in . . .