944 Turbo S Engine Rebuild Thread
- Thread starter Eldavo
- Start date
blade7
Well-known member
Ha ha, it's only been around 6 months since I went up and down my drive in it. I charged the battery and it fired straight up, and ran until the fans cut in yesterday. I'd only remove the compressor, think I've read the alternator sits lower and makes more room for a bigger turbo. Guess I'll take it to an A/C specialist and see what's involved to recommission the system first.Eldavo said:It is pretty heavy for what it is but I guess you wouldn’t notice the weight saving on its own. Obviously if you remove it, then the condenser, receiver dryer, lines, etc. etc. then you’re getting more weight loss and increasing your marginal gains but I do have 2 further thoughts on that:
1 - If we were good enough drivers to genuinely notice a marked difference by removing 1% of a car’s weight then we probably wouldn’t be driving 944s.
2 - By the time you get it out of the garage and try to compare it to how it used to be, that 3-5 year frame of reference might be a bit woolly now []
scam75
Well-known member
I went to the bother of getting my AC up and running a while back, it really is very good when it's working. Windows demist super quick in the bad weather. Suppose you don't have much bad weather in your garage Blade! []
Anyway, my car obviously "just needed a re-gas" when I got it. Done a pressure test and the condenser was a sieve. Got a decent 2nd hand one and it worked. However it didn't keep gas long as the compressor nose seal had seen better days. New compressor sorted that. Fitted a new receiver/dryer as well. Only replaced the seals between the compressor and pipes and condenser and pipes. A smidge of ester oil in when it was refilled and it happily runs R134a. Did need a 3rd condenser when the 2nd one sprung a leak, they are in in a bad position and particularly vulnerable at the small inlet pipe, where mine fractured. With my latest condenser I have protect this with thick stone chip and so far so good, doesn't leak, and is icy cold in summer and a moisture hoover in winter.
Stuart
]Anyway, my car obviously "just needed a re-gas" when I got it. Done a pressure test and the condenser was a sieve. Got a decent 2nd hand one and it worked. However it didn't keep gas long as the compressor nose seal had seen better days. New compressor sorted that. Fitted a new receiver/dryer as well. Only replaced the seals between the compressor and pipes and condenser and pipes. A smidge of ester oil in when it was refilled and it happily runs R134a. Did need a 3rd condenser when the 2nd one sprung a leak, they are in in a bad position and particularly vulnerable at the small inlet pipe, where mine fractured. With my latest condenser I have protect this with thick stone chip and so far so good, doesn't leak, and is icy cold in summer and a moisture hoover in winter.
Stuart
blade7
Well-known member
scam75 said:I went to the bother of getting my AC up and running a while back, it really is very good when it's working. Windows demist super quick in the bad weather. Suppose you don't have much bad weather in your garage Blade! [
Stuart
Oy, I'll have you know it's only seen bad weather 3 or 4 times outside of the garage in the last 14 years [
]. It is on it's 3rd set of tyres in 21k miles though. I did start to wonder if I should keep it, but when I got it out of the garage the other day, it looked and sounded the absolute b0***cks.
TTM said:Eldavo said:
Did you actually paint in orange the bolts holding the plastic lead clamps? [
When I had the cam cover powder coated red (ironically it was actually Orange beforehand) I put sacrificial bolts in all the threaded holes beforehand. When I got it back and removed them I realised that they were the perfect length for holding the plastic clamps in so it was meant to be!
blade7 said:
Yes it is a very tight fit getting inlet pipework to the turbo with the alternator sat on top of the a/c compressor - especially with 3” pipework. I had to use silicon hose over that part as it allowed a smidge of deflection.
You could remove the compressor, receiver dryer, condenser and the 2-3 pipes that connect them.
blade7
Well-known member
Up to £300 I'll probably get the A/C sorted out, much more and I'll remove the compressor. Years ago I bought a new K&N air filter, it's big and will only just fit behind the headlamp if I cut off the support bracket. I may need to disconnect the A/C pipes under there to make a bit more room too. Whatever I do, I want to leave it simple to reinstall working A/C in the future.
Nearly there now, inlet manifold fouled the bonnet as I hadn’t realised how much it jutted out compared to the 8v one. Now it all fits and I’ve been able to finish off the fuel lines and vacuum lines. Just needs that massive boost leak in the top of it attending to and the intercooler pipes making (along with a couple of brackets making, etc) and it’ll be ready for the key to turn!
Dan944t
New member
excellent stuff!!!!
looking really great
im also getting very close to finishing my build now… ( Diy full Holset hx35 twinscroll in and nearly finished custom 3” at back wheels now ,.. but lots more fabricating to go till i will be ready- but getting there now ! )
hopefully one day in summer we can all meet and have a good chat about our cars
atb
Daniel
looking really great
im also getting very close to finishing my build now… ( Diy full Holset hx35 twinscroll in and nearly finished custom 3” at back wheels now ,.. but lots more fabricating to go till i will be ready- but getting there now ! )
hopefully one day in summer we can all meet and have a good chat about our cars
atb
Daniel
Good stuff Dan, I have to pinch myself that I last drove the car 2 months ago today as things are progressing pretty quickly. Time off over Xmas helped but so far things are going relatively smoothly - mind you, I haven’t got to that arse-puckering moment of turning the key yet
Having a bit of chassis surgery too at the welder’s next week as one of the rear castor mount captive nuts made a successful bid for freedom!
Having a bit of chassis surgery too at the welder’s next week as one of the rear castor mount captive nuts made a successful bid for freedom!
Dan944t
New member
oh bugger! …. did it snap off and leave thread inside?…
i need to get prepared to weld nuts to my 986s headers as they are not looking great and i have nice custom headers for it ( not a nice job on your back welding straight up ) really need a ramp
blimey think it’s been near on 4 years ? i havnt drove my 944 turbo
i need to get prepared to weld nuts to my 986s headers as they are not looking great and i have nice custom headers for it ( not a nice job on your back welding straight up ) really need a ramp
blimey think it’s been near on 4 years ? i havnt drove my 944 turbo
No, the bolt had pulled the thread and the captive nut came loose.
Had the car taken to the welder’s today - should get it back in the next week or so. Recovery truck was ace, backed it up the drive, lowered the loading bed right to the garage door and winched it straight in - Magic!
I can almost forgive the Grocer’s apostrophe.
Had the car taken to the welder’s today - should get it back in the next week or so. Recovery truck was ace, backed it up the drive, lowered the loading bed right to the garage door and winched it straight in - Magic!
I can almost forgive the Grocer’s apostrophe.
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