968 Club Sport at long last
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Diver944
Active member
Congratulations Mike [
]
Your list of faults seem minor and very typical so nothing to worry unduly about, and something to get your teeth into over the next few weeks making her perfect []
For the hatch rattle take a look at these two threads in the 944 forum:
http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=37863&mpage=1&key=rattle鏧
http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=36239&mpage=1&key=hatch酹
If everything is adjusted correctly and it still rattles I would recommend a new tailgate seal (£29 from Porscheshop). That finally cured my rattle, the old one was so flat in comparison to the new springy rubber one
]Your list of faults seem minor and very typical so nothing to worry unduly about, and something to get your teeth into over the next few weeks making her perfect [
]For the hatch rattle take a look at these two threads in the 944 forum:
http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=37863&mpage=1&key=rattle鏧
http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=36239&mpage=1&key=hatch酹
If everything is adjusted correctly and it still rattles I would recommend a new tailgate seal (£29 from Porscheshop). That finally cured my rattle, the old one was so flat in comparison to the new springy rubber one
Guest
New member
Sorted the hatch today with a tweak of the catch pins, piece of cake, tightened up the Ashtray so thats quiet too.
Now for the big stuff, I noticed that when I switched on the fan and A/C this morning the belts started to slip, no worries thought I a quick nip and tuck of the adjuster and away we go. Anyway whilst under the front trying to get access to the adjuster I noticed a wet patch Oh No!!! [:-] It seems to be coming from the power steering pump and I've noticed the level is down in the reservoir, and the belts are damp with residue so looks like this will be the first major job.
Anyway back to the good stuff, I took my brother out today for a spin, cold sunny and dry [8D] perfect conditions for some handling tests. WOW what can I say, pushing her hard around roundabouts the grip is phenomenal very hard to lose the rear end. My Brother was very impressed with the stance of the car at speed even to a point where he admitted it would outperform his E36 M3 (another German Left hooker). He was amazed at the pull of the 4 port motor right up thro' the gears. The more I drive it the more in love I become it really does drive as good as it looks once you get the feel of it, trackdays will certainly be good fun.
Final note I'm now more certain its had a respray, I found a small run on the back vertical edge of the front wing, but other than that its been done very well. I just hope its as good as it looks, only time will tell.
Mike[]
Now for the big stuff, I noticed that when I switched on the fan and A/C this morning the belts started to slip, no worries thought I a quick nip and tuck of the adjuster and away we go. Anyway whilst under the front trying to get access to the adjuster I noticed a wet patch Oh No!!! [:-] It seems to be coming from the power steering pump and I've noticed the level is down in the reservoir, and the belts are damp with residue so looks like this will be the first major job.
Anyway back to the good stuff, I took my brother out today for a spin, cold sunny and dry [8D] perfect conditions for some handling tests. WOW what can I say, pushing her hard around roundabouts the grip is phenomenal very hard to lose the rear end. My Brother was very impressed with the stance of the car at speed even to a point where he admitted it would outperform his E36 M3 (another German Left hooker). He was amazed at the pull of the 4 port motor right up thro' the gears. The more I drive it the more in love I become it really does drive as good as it looks once you get the feel of it, trackdays will certainly be good fun.
Final note I'm now more certain its had a respray, I found a small run on the back vertical edge of the front wing, but other than that its been done very well. I just hope its as good as it looks, only time will tell.
Mike[
]
John H
New member
Leaking steering pump. My 924S had this (same pump) and the garage took it off, split the pump body, cleaned it and smeared some silicone on the gasket and re-assembled it. Worked perfectly, no leak.
I have since read that it is a difficult job to split the pump, but I watched them do it, and it looked OK to me. Make sure you check and tighten all the pipe joints before you tackle the pump, as they are prone to leaking.
JH
I have since read that it is a difficult job to split the pump, but I watched them do it, and it looked OK to me. Make sure you check and tighten all the pipe joints before you tackle the pump, as they are prone to leaking.
JH
Guest
New member
I'll probably drop the pump off myself next weekend whilst I've got my tools out inspecting the Cams, I think its the seal around the pulley shaft, in which case our local bearing and seal distributer should have a seal of some description to fit. I'll let you know next week when I've had a good rummage. I'm also going to strip and clean out the brakes as they are squealing a little so sounds like the backs of the pads are a bit dry, it'll be a good chance to check the condition of the calipers.
Busy weekend coming up I reckon.[]
Busy weekend coming up I reckon.[
]
paulf968
New member
Mike
A note about removing the pads on 968's if you are planning a quick clean & inspect. Coincidentally, just did my own rear brakes yesterday -- all OK, with no ally corrosion behind the s'steel plates, just clagged up with dust.
On the back of each pad should be stuck a pair of mushroom shaped spring things which locate into the pistons (they are supposed to stop squeeky noises). With these in place it is not possible (without aggro) to slide the pads out from the rear of the caliper when in-situ. NB Some garages do not bother to put these spring things back when changing pads so they may be missing.
IMO by far the best way is to go direct to removing the whole caliper, even though a few extra minutes will be required for detaching them & bleeding. You can then remove the pads, clean it all up on the bench, check the free movement of the pistons by hand etc and then re-assemble it quickly. In the end does save time and a better job is achieved.
ps hope you do not think this is a case of teaching your grandmother to suck eggs !!!
byeeee
paul
A note about removing the pads on 968's if you are planning a quick clean & inspect. Coincidentally, just did my own rear brakes yesterday -- all OK, with no ally corrosion behind the s'steel plates, just clagged up with dust.
On the back of each pad should be stuck a pair of mushroom shaped spring things which locate into the pistons (they are supposed to stop squeeky noises). With these in place it is not possible (without aggro) to slide the pads out from the rear of the caliper when in-situ. NB Some garages do not bother to put these spring things back when changing pads so they may be missing.
IMO by far the best way is to go direct to removing the whole caliper, even though a few extra minutes will be required for detaching them & bleeding. You can then remove the pads, clean it all up on the bench, check the free movement of the pistons by hand etc and then re-assemble it quickly. In the end does save time and a better job is achieved.
ps hope you do not think this is a case of teaching your grandmother to suck eggs !!!
byeeee
paul
John H
New member
Or ... to get the pads out, slide a long thin knife blade (like an old table knife) in behind the pad to cut thro the adhesive backing on the mushroom. If you get this right, you can re-use the mushrooms. While you can buy brake pads anywhere, no one sells the mushrooms (other than OPCs) and there are different sizes.
As to leaving them out? I'm of the view that they are there for a purpose, so I prefer to re-use them.
A great place for brake components is Brakes International. They do Jurid pads, and sell the warning wires cheaper than anyone in the UK.
http://www.brakesint.co.uk
John H
As to leaving them out? I'm of the view that they are there for a purpose, so I prefer to re-use them.
A great place for brake components is Brakes International. They do Jurid pads, and sell the warning wires cheaper than anyone in the UK.
http://www.brakesint.co.uk
John H
Guest
New member
As usual useful info, and I haven't sucked an egg for years.
I tend to agree with you Paul it would be nice to drop the caliper off complete apart from I hate bleeding brakes[] one of the worst jobs of all time especially if the ABS pump gets airlocked[:'(] Although it'd be an excuse to upgrade to a decent synthetic fluid and a braided hose set [].
Out of interest what are the 968's like to bleed out, the MG used to be a right pain in the bum.
Mike
I tend to agree with you Paul it would be nice to drop the caliper off complete apart from I hate bleeding brakes[
] one of the worst jobs of all time especially if the ABS pump gets airlocked[:'(] Although it'd be an excuse to upgrade to a decent synthetic fluid and a braided hose set [].Out of interest what are the 968's like to bleed out, the MG used to be a right pain in the bum.
Mike
Diver944
Active member
Mike,
If the power steering pump is the same as the 944 (and I believe it is), then it is a straight forward job to change the internal seals. 911 & Porsche World did a 'how to' guide last year (I can send you a scan). IIRC the seal kit is about £15.
Also check that the hose from the resrvoir is tight. I've heard of many leaks caused by an old hose clip, and it runs down the pipe to the pump.
If the power steering pump is the same as the 944 (and I believe it is), then it is a straight forward job to change the internal seals. 911 & Porsche World did a 'how to' guide last year (I can send you a scan). IIRC the seal kit is about £15.
Also check that the hose from the resrvoir is tight. I've heard of many leaks caused by an old hose clip, and it runs down the pipe to the pump.
paulf968
New member
Mike
Bleeding the brakes has never been a problem for me on the 968 -- children make ideal brake pedal pushers !! The only extra hassle is that because of the orientation of the pistons there are 2 bleed valves per caliper. ( I assume it is the same on a CS as my coupe)
ps have done the braided flexible job using Goodridge hoses and used Castrol Response synthetic -- so we are both heading in the same direction.
paul
Bleeding the brakes has never been a problem for me on the 968 -- children make ideal brake pedal pushers !! The only extra hassle is that because of the orientation of the pistons there are 2 bleed valves per caliper. ( I assume it is the same on a CS as my coupe)
ps have done the braided flexible job using Goodridge hoses and used Castrol Response synthetic -- so we are both heading in the same direction.
paul
Guest
New member
Well, I've just spent 2 hours under the car adjusting the alternator belt and the power steering belt as they were both loose.
Anyhow a simple job as usual turned into an epic, the double ended adjuster of the power steering was snapped at the join between the thread and the eyelet, luckily I had one half rod left for my trusty Arc welder so once stripped off and cleaned I managed to weld it back together and get it all refitted and tensioned. Phew !!
I haven't found the source of the power steering fluid leak awkward to see anything in the dark, but I would say that the pump has been off recently as its too clean in comparison to the rest of the bottom end of the engine etc... pipes look OK but without stripping it all off its hard to say.
Also found some oil on the bottom of the engine, which again I can't pin down to any one particular area, but it seems to be coming from the right hand side up by the alternator bracket and running down to the front of the sump pan, its not a lot but enough to make me want to see where its coming from. Might have to be a strip of the top end at the weekend to pin it down as one of my pet hates is dripping oil.
So there you go the first installment of the oily bits to do list.
To be continued................................
Anyhow a simple job as usual turned into an epic, the double ended adjuster of the power steering was snapped at the join between the thread and the eyelet, luckily I had one half rod left for my trusty Arc welder so once stripped off and cleaned I managed to weld it back together and get it all refitted and tensioned. Phew !!
I haven't found the source of the power steering fluid leak awkward to see anything in the dark, but I would say that the pump has been off recently as its too clean in comparison to the rest of the bottom end of the engine etc... pipes look OK but without stripping it all off its hard to say.
Also found some oil on the bottom of the engine, which again I can't pin down to any one particular area, but it seems to be coming from the right hand side up by the alternator bracket and running down to the front of the sump pan, its not a lot but enough to make me want to see where its coming from. Might have to be a strip of the top end at the weekend to pin it down as one of my pet hates is dripping oil.
So there you go the first installment of the oily bits to do list.
To be continued................................
Guest
New member
Glenn,
minor problems at the moment so not too worried as long as I can keep on top of them, it has to be expected with an 11 year old motor. I bet your glad I bought this one now []
As for the MG thats in the Autotrader this week so everythings crossed for a quick sale. I need to cancel the insurance on it before the end of next week so I can send my new insurers proof of no claims, and also get a bit of cash back to pay for the immenant repair bills[&:].
Mike[]
minor problems at the moment so not too worried as long as I can keep on top of them, it has to be expected with an 11 year old motor. I bet your glad I bought this one now [
]As for the MG thats in the Autotrader this week so everythings crossed for a quick sale. I need to cancel the insurance on it before the end of next week so I can send my new insurers proof of no claims, and also get a bit of cash back to pay for the immenant repair bills[&:].
Mike[
]
Guest
New member
Trouble is Glenn you don't know how good or how bad a car really is till you own it for a while. Whilst James' is very clean and the engine should be good etc. You could still have the minor niggles with ancillaries as its still a 130K+ car. Second hand motors are always a gamble in the end and I'm 4 grand in pocket compared to James 12K version so it makes the minor stuff even more minor. At the end of the day if I wasn't such a tight g1t I could take it to a garage
Don't be fooled by a high buy price it doesn't guarantee quality []
Mike
PS I'll probably eat my words in a few months when the gearbox drops off it []
Don't be fooled by a high buy price it doesn't guarantee quality [
]Mike
PS I'll probably eat my words in a few months when the gearbox drops off it [
]
Guest
New member
I know what your saying Mike, according to James hes had everything done to the car and has receipts for £11k for the past 2.5 years or so, hence his determination to sell at a high(ish) price. If what he says is true then its a price worth paying in my opinion. Theres always a risk buying second hand, but 130k miles isnt alot if its been serviced correctly. 4k can get eaten up very quickly, Ive been there before with a 911.
You could also say 'don't be fooled by a bargain as theres no such thing'[]
Thats especially true where Porsches are concerned....trust me!
You could also say 'don't be fooled by a bargain as theres no such thing'[
]Thats especially true where Porsches are concerned....trust me!
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