The balance is to be able to get a pad that dissipates the heat well that you can also enjoy use on the road. The Yellow stuff seemed ok but I didn't get chance to track them. I'm going for Ferodo this time as I've used them on rallies and they still look standard [
]
DS2500 is favourite at the moment but I have a friend at Demon Tweeks who is checking some latest compounds directly with Ferodo so I should know more this week. Yes OEM discs for now.
First: Not all of that money was spent on power mods; so its rather fallacious to suggest that. Second: Its crank HP; Charlie at SRR confirmed over on PistonHeads. Third: You cannot get defininitive figures from a rolling road; the only useful information you can get is relative performance on the day. I have had the car on one dyno showing 370 HP and one saying 345 HP - Neither of these 'Max' figures mean anything in isolation. The important information to note from yesterdays experiment is the car is approximately 45 HP up on a 987.2 Cayman S and 30 HP up on a Boxster Spyder. Without a before/after dyno on the same day within a few hours of each other there is no way to know what the Cayman R would have run stock - hence relative figures being the best we can tell. +45 HP on a Cayman S or even +30 HP on a Boxster Spyder is a significant improvement for a light weight, naturally aspirated car - Think the difference between an FQ330 EvoX and an FQ360, but with less weight. Feel free to sneer at +30 HP, i'll be sure to ignore you as you get passed on the straights
And even with this said and done, the greatest increase is not in the max HP, it is in HP across the revs, driveability, torque and most importantly - noise [] I will be revisiting Surrey Rolling Road with the Piston Heads group on the 5th of October with ~15 other Porsches, so if anyone is interested in the information here I'll document the day and show you comparitive figures between this setup, 911's, Boxsters, Caymans etc etc. BobBad dream indeed!!!ORIGINAL: jdpef356 Great Summary as ever Prof Flat 6[8D] Like many others I had too much cake yesterday - they say you should not mix it and the last couple of jellies finished me off
] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mFoSpbhAOw Now for something strange I just stumbled across[&:] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1-EcHdxBmU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjQkaWspVpg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmNe0uK2gDM
no one on here,pistonheads,planet9 has said wether the figures are crank hp or rwhp.if rwhp then the moded caymanR is impressive but the standard spyder is even more impressive.the caymanS should have rang the same as the spyder! the spyder is the anomoly? so if you take the rolling road figures as they are the cs 300hp and the tuned cr 345hp its impressive but the standard spyder running 316hp it questions everything?ORIGINAL: TheBobFirst: Not all of that money was spent on power mods; so its rather fallacious to suggest that. Second: Its crank HP; Charlie at SRR confirmed over on PistonHeads. Third: You cannot get defininitive figures from a rolling road; the only useful information you can get is relative performance on the day. I have had the car on one dyno showing 370 HP and one saying 345 HP - Neither of these 'Max' figures mean anything in isolation. The important information to note from yesterdays experiment is the car is approximately 45 HP up on a 987.2 Cayman S and 30 HP up on a Boxster Spyder. Without a before/after dyno on the same day within a few hours of each other there is no way to know what the Cayman R would have run stock - hence relative figures being the best we can tell. +45 HP on a Cayman S or even +30 HP on a Boxster Spyder is a significant improvement for a light weight, naturally aspirated car - Think the difference between an FQ330 EvoX and an FQ360, but with less weight. Feel free to sneer at +30 HP, i'll be sure to ignore you as you get passed on the straights
Guilford car white with the nice spec £39900.thought that would go first!right wheels,seats,late build.pcm etc
Charlie on Piston Heads confirmed he supplied readouts of both and I, as the owner of the readouts am telling you it is crank horsepower
I agree, when the Cayman S ran 300 I was a little shocked as it is definitely not a slouch on the road. I have two theories, though they are pulled mostly out of thin air and are more than likely utter bullshit: 1) Our cars adapt over time to our driving style and either adopt a more aggressive state of tune or a more sedate state of tune. This can be proven by resetting the ECU of both types of driven car (via a throttle body adaptation) - If you drive hard and reset the TB often your car feels more sluggish; conversely if you drive more sedately and then do a TB adaptation you tend to feel the car pick up a little more. This Cayman S does not get driven hard, so perhaps it would benefit from a TB adaptation... unfortunately I only have the durametric cable for the R and so can not confirm this theory for myself (well... I can, but only in the reverse). 2) Throttling issue/feature on non PSE 987.2 Cayman/Boxsters: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1130541 The trace of the S and the Spyder are identical, just one is shifted lower, perhaps this is an artificial limitation being imposed by the throttling issue, combined with the difficulties of getting the PDK to work on a rolling road. Perhaps MrDemon could comment on this as I think i've seen his name in threads speaking about it. This wouldn't affect the R due to the Softronic Remap. What we need to remember is all three have the exact same engine block (the A91 DFI engine) and so any differences are purely in the tune/different bolt ons. We have bone stock, we have one with the PSE and the valve removed, and we have one with all the bells and whistles. Thats the best comparison we are going to get out of it unfortunately... maybe we will get better data next time PDK doesn't help matters, i'm hoping next time we have a few more MT cars to compare against. Remember the difference between a stock Cayman R and Boxster Spyder is only the exhaust - I haven't seen any dyno's to confirm or deny this but I am highly skeptical of the 10HP difference in stock - I have definitely seen people reporting UK Cayman R's are slightly detuned from their European and American cousins. If we were to get too pedantic over the test, all three cars should have been on the exact same tyres as different tyres result in different amounts of loss; but that seems like too much effort for a 'rough estimation' which is all a dyno gives. Oh well... she's noticeably more powerful than stock across the entire range now - I think its time to move on to the sensible upgrades... the brakes!
I wasn't aware that Durametric could do adaptions [&:]
Potentially; though while I did not do a before or after, torque wise the throttle body and plenum made a massive butt dyno difference. Sure its anecdotal but normally my butt dyno is very insensitive. Given that the A91 engine is also in the 991 Carrera, and that has an output of (shock) 345HP, i'd say whatever has caused it, we are heading in the right direction. I personally think the weak link in the chain right now is the tune; Softronic makes a great generic map but it doesn't account for any modifications; so any gains from headers or cat deletes is still not maximised. I would really like to find a reputable Porsche naturally aspirated live dyno tuner to give it a go but I haven't been successful locating one. Anyone heard of such a person/place? I'm quite happy to guinea pig this for the rest of you
FYI the next scheduled upgrade is: 340mm Girodisc slotted front rotors matched with RS29 Pagid Yellows and the GT3 brake ducts. Stock rear rotors with RS29 Pagid Yellows and titanium shims. GT3 Master Brake Cylinder and braided stainless steel brake lines. EDIT: Before someone mentions it, yes I will be changing the fluid from stock to Motul 600 or an equivalent so deal with the increased temperatures.I have tested this in Durametric versions 6.1.0.2 and above: 1) Go in to the DME or Engine Control Unit, 2) Select 'Basic Settings' 3) Turn the setting 'On' and click 'Read' 4) When the final box readout reaches '14' the throttle body adaptation has taken place. You need to do this if you move the throttle body position manually for any reason (such as changing it) or after a remap on the 987.2 cars. I really don't think theres much you can't do with the Durametric Pro cable if i'm honest
] It sounds to me more like it is a re-calibration of the throttle body rather than an adaption?
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