Building a 400bhp+ 2.5 ltr 944 Turbo
- Thread starter PSH
- Start date
Thanks Terry, I'm trying to include as mu8ch detail as possible in an attempt to help others, hence why so many pictures, hope I'm not boring anyone yet...
Hi Andy, I used Hycote VHT aluminium paint. I have to say I'm very impressed with it, it covers very well. There's a Laquer to go on top for those who prefer a gloss finish instead of satin. I don't know how well it will do once the engine is running, however I have high hopes as the temp range is very high. Pete
Hi Andy, I used Hycote VHT aluminium paint. I have to say I'm very impressed with it, it covers very well. There's a Laquer to go on top for those who prefer a gloss finish instead of satin. I don't know how well it will do once the engine is running, however I have high hopes as the temp range is very high. Pete
Thanks Rob I have to say I'm enjoying it so far, I think the fact that I'm not in a hurry helps as I can do the little things that normally may get put aside. Got a long way to go yet though, I do hope that the pictures help others like yourself doing the same job in the future, personally I find seeing something like an engine in bits helps greatly in understanding what the thought process was of the original design, once I understand that everything tends to go a lot smoother, onwards and upwards..
cheers Pete
Afternoon everyone: First job for today was to remove the old spigot bearing in the rear of the Crankshaft, this is a very easy task if using the correct tool ( picture), I'd hate to have to do it without the spigot bearing remover that my son kindly lent me, the job took just a few minutes. Picture shows the tool set that I borrowed and the old bearing having been removed.
Close up showing the recess that the bearing fits into, unfortunately I am still waiting for some parts to arrive from reading OPC and the bearing is one such item, should be here in the next few days so I'll add it's install then.
On to the head studs, just to remind you guys I'm using the Raceware Kit as I did for the main studs and rod bolts. I first fitted all 10 studs and then put the head gasket and cylinder head in situ to ensure that I had enough thread for the nut and washer plus a little extra in case of future changes to the head gasket. My old head gasket was 1.20mm thick which was more than I remembered, still I have allowed for the max cometic head gasket of over 2mm just in case. I won't know the exact size that I need until I've worked out the final compression ratio after the head has had it's mods done. So after setting the studs and removing head and gasket I had a height of around 75mm as seen here.
Raceware say to install studs by hand, which I did and to use a pipe sealant and not threadlock so as to be able to easily remove the studs if needed later. Well I chose to ignore this for two reasons, first of all the original studs were held securely in place with loctite, a hell of a lot of it in fact so Porsche decided that it was needed and that was good enough for me. Also because I didn't like the idea of relying purely on domestic pipe sealant to ensure that the studs do not let water/steam under pressure seep up to the gasket. The reason that this can happen is due to the fact that a few of the stud holes actually break through into the water chambers, especially the front two studs which were a real pain to remove due to the corrosion caused. Picture shows a stud with some sealant applied, I apply it in two places, a small amount at the bottom of the stud and a larger amount at the top to act as a second seal over the last few threads. Also in the picture is the sealant that I used, I chose this particular one for two reasons , first it is both a sealant and a threadlock product but more importantly it only requires a force of around 10 ft/lb's to break it's seal.
As usual last picture for today is for reference to show the 10 new studs fitted and sealed ready for the head. The engine now has head and main studs with a tensile strength of 190,000psi and rod bolts with 200,000 psi, far greater than OEM spec, also the studs have two thread pitches, one to enable it to thread into the OEM threads and the opposite end that has a much finer thread enabling it to have a far greater clamping force than is possible on OEM studs. This block is going to be one hell of a tough cookie, it'll need to be...
more soon Pete
Thanks Tom... I'm very lucky... To finish off from yesterday's update here's the new spigot bearing which arrived this morning , fitted into the crankshaft.
Also in today's post I received the two new balance shaft top hats, here's an old one compared to the new, notice the groove worn from nearly 200k miles of use and this is the good one.
Here's the bad one! I'm a little surprised by the difference between the two hats, even if only one had been replaced in the past it still suggests that they do not wear evenly, or perhaps due to oil starvation at some point... strange... still all sorted now. I used some sealant for extra security on the outside of the oil seal and plenty of assembly lube for the oil seal's contact with the top hat.
And so we have more parts fitted to the front of the block, next will be the waterpump which my son said he'd get since he can get the best price, hopefully I'll have this during the next few weeks, I've already got the new bolts to fit it, Porsche for some reason no longer list the original studs that were removed and use bolts instead.
Pete
To finish off from yesterday's update here's the new spigot bearing which arrived this morning , fitted into the crankshaft.
Just one picture for tonight.. I finally received the silicone reducer elbow that I ordered from Performance Silicone Hoses, the size is 12mm x 19mm id's. I cut the old hose leaving the swivel part of the original still attached to the metal downpipe, this was where the 19mm end fits with the 12mm end fitting to the AOS.
Another piece of the puzzle done... Pete
Pete
As a tip, the spigot bearing can be removed by filling the recess in the crank with gease and then tapping in a correct size drift or old first motion shaft. As the drift goes in, the grease will push the bearing out. [ORIGINAL: barks944 Looks good, boy I wish I had that tool to remove spigot bearings
] Regards, Clive.Genius!ORIGINAL: LancerlotAs a tip, the spigot bearing can be removed by filling the recess in the crank with gease and then tapping in a correct size drift or old first motion shaft. As the drift goes in, the grease will push the bearing out. [ORIGINAL: barks944 Looks good, boy I wish I had that tool to remove spigot bearings
CarreraRSR
New member
Ford jubilee clips!!ORIGINAL: PSH Just one picture for tonight.. I finally received the silicone reducer elbow that I ordered from Performance Silicone Hoses, the size is 12mm x 19mm id's. I cut the old hose leaving the swivel part of the original still attached to the metal downpipe, this was where the 19mm end fits with the 12mm end fitting to the AOS.Another piece of the puzzle done...
George Elliott
New member
wonder what progress has been made now.... Pete, it won't run right with a F**d jubilee clip, now come on.....[] keep up the good work George 944t
] keep up the good work George 944t
Thanks George, not a lot more has been done but hey I did say it's a long term project.. Two pictures for today following on from my other thread asking for help with shield placements, thanks to everyone for your replies, thanks to Rob for the call and also thanks to Chris for the text.. So first off is the drivers side which has the small shield that fits low down at the rear with a small lip over the sump. I'm told this was to hold the wires for the oil level sender even though the early cars didn't have one. I'm not surprised though as there are many fittings which weren't actually used until later models, one being the wiring loom which has everything on it.
The other side is a little more involved, first the two stations for supporting the inlet manifold, the shield that covers the turbo oil pipe which fits into the balance shaft housing and also the shield that protects the AOS from heat. There should also be the bracket for supporting the turbo downpipe but I'll be using a custom made exhaust that doesn't have this bracket, whether it needs one or not I guess I'll find out in due course. I realise that some of the shields may need to be removed during installation of the engine but for now they are fitted to keep them safe and reduce the amount of bolts that I need to find a home for.
I have many small items that need cleaning and painting or polishing, one of the advantages of not being in a hurry is I can spend the time needed to address the small details on this engine, which I love doing.. Pete
Two pictures for today following on from my other thread asking for help with shield placements, thanks to everyone for your replies, thanks to Rob for the call and also thanks to Chris for the text.. So first off is the drivers side which has the small shield that fits low down at the rear with a small lip over the sump. I'm told this was to hold the wires for the oil level sender even though the early cars didn't have one. I'm not surprised though as there are many fittings which weren't actually used until later models, one being the wiring loom which has everything on it.
Pete
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