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Fuel Lines

I'm not disputing hard lines are best. As you say I'm sure they will last longer and by keeping them you're retaining the cars originality.
Unfortunately for amateur mechanics like me, the tools are too expensive to buy for a one off job like this. Dropping the gearbox is also no mean feat!
I think SAE30R9 will also come in way under the cost, Teflon still under but the fittings are more expensive.

I still need to know the fitting sizes for both the fuel rail and pressure regulator.
Ive updated the picture below to try to illustrate it better.

1. is the FPR, I need to know the size of this to order the correct brass connector (pictured).
2. is to the injector rail, and again I need to know the size.

The Goodyear hoses are one continuous length and will run all the way under the car to the fuel filter, and tank. Again, what is the connector size on the fuel pump?




FF53AC7DA67E424AA752E92A4DD8F6B9.jpg
 
Here are the details for the turbo/2.5

http://arnnworx.com/fuel_lines.htm

The S/S2 have a different size for one of the fittings... I can't remember exactly, but it's a similar metric fitting, you could just measure it?
 
Rob - thanks.
I can measure the nut size e.g. the feed line is 17mm. Which normally translates a M14, but is this right for hose fittings too?
 
I took mine to a hose specialist to match up. The paperwork suggests 10mm feed ,8mm return. 16mm fitting feed,14mm fitting return.
 
I had the ones on my S2 replaced by a local garage with flexible lines based on those used in GM cars about two years ago I think the bill was around £130 supplied and fitted.
 
Thanks again for the replies.

In regards to the hose size, ive discovered hard line is measured on external diameter, and flex on internal.
So 10mm hard line has in internal of something close to 8, smaller than 10mm flex.

I guess larger pipes arent going to do any harm, but would be nice to be close to OE spec.
 
I have a pair of original Porsche fuel lines for a 924 which i would be prepared to sell. I believe they are the same as for the 944 but cannot be totally sure so i could look at the part number (on the original Porsche stickers still stuck to the pipes) to check if you are interested.

 
Whats wrong with how they sit?

I made fuel lines for my Golf with it, not factory straight but good enough.

DSCF1813%20%28Small%29.JPG
 
We made new fuel lines for son's project 951 from copper lines. We wanted to have a factory look, so first we painted lines with 1K primer. After that we added green oem style color (2K epoxy paint) the local paint shop mixed for us according to sample taken from original old line. Then we put clear heat shrinkable plastic cover on lines. Most likely these lines will be good for next twenty years
 
I just feel that they sit a bit awkwardly and the corners around the area where they come up the inner wing to the engine look like they might rub. I went today and priced a set of stainless braided ptfe high pressure fuel hose and I am going to go down that route as I feel they will be both maintenance free and easy to fit and get tidy looking.
 
Hi Colin,

Would you mind letting me know who your getting to make your braided fuel lines and also an indication of the cost? This is a route I was going to take but I've not gotten round to it yet.

Will you get the pipes made to fit directly to the fuel rail & filter or use the existing Porsche flexi pipes & just replace the hard lines?

Thanks,

Alan.
 
Most likely these lines will be good for next twenty years
Never mind 20 years, with that kind of treatment those lines will still be intact when our sun is a white dwarf.
There was an interesting posting recently about the use of high pressure nylon lines with brass end fittings - if the poster reads this, did you ever fit them?
 
All

I had made fuel lines off a couple of winters ago - took the full lines to Paul at Spectrum hose in High Wycombe, he cut out the rusty sections (over the rear axle) measured up and made SS flexi lines for the rear and also the front end where the they go int through the wheel arch. These then fit onto the original steel lines with compression fittings.

Paul and the chaps @ Spectrum hose are used to doing every type of hydraulic/ fluid containing line under the sun - 3 - 5 bar fuel pressure is nothing. Like Pirtek they're using to dealing in 100's of bar !

IIRC the total cost was about £80 all in = great value !

Chris
 
I got a local supplier of hydraulic hoses to make them for me.I have kept the flexi hoses over the engine but got the rest made in Stainless braided ptfe pipe. They cost me £140 including the fittings etc. I recon that's good value considering they will be good for a long time ( maybe not as long as Oli's nuclear resistant ones) but 20 odd years any way.
 
Fitted new lines on Sat. apart from letting the beam down a couple of mm to let the fittings through it was easy and took me less than an hour. They look so much better and should be maintenance free for a good few years.
 

ORIGINAL: colin944

I just feel that they sit a bit awkwardly and the corners around the area where they come up the inner wing to the engine look like they might rub. I went today and priced a set of stainless braided ptfe high pressure fuel hose and I am going to go down that route as I feel they will be both maintenance free and easy to fit and get tidy looking.


You should then install additional clips/supports as they dont span the same and will sag/vibrate.
 
There is more than one way to skin that particular cat and how you choose to do it determines the level of difficulty. The problem is that the OE lines run between the rear beam and the body and the only way to replace with OE is to drop the rear beam first (as I have done). Not difficult but time consuming and carries a reasonably high chance of one thing leading to another along the way (siezed/snapped bolts, knackering the mounts etc etc) and of course before you can get the rear beam off, you'll need to take the exhaust off...... you get the idea.

Another option (there may be several more) is to replace some or all of the OE lines with rubber petrol hose. You can then run the hose pretty much anywhere you like (including up and over the rear beam) and so long as you clip it securely and ensure its not chafing on anything or too close to anything hot or moving, the MOT man should be OK with it. I expect this would be a much easier (and ALOT cheaper) job than the OE option.
 
I did it the proper way using the correct OEM parts not hard but time consuming and expensive about £400 in parts if I remember correctly.
if I was doing it again I would use the 968 lines as the parts only run to £130 or so I,m told
the original parts have lasted 25 years so I guess It,s good for 25 more,.......If I ever finish it[:D]
 

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