Life on the Dark Side
- Thread starter bobfair
- Start date
The 500NM is the torque required to fasten the bolts. To undo them requires around 700NM. The wheel changing aids dont work with the centre lock wheels so I think you just have to be very careful. As Clive suggests I think a plastic screw driver is best way of avoiding scratching the large covers in the single wheel nut. I went for the torque multiplier so as I could take it in the car to track days etc. I suspect a proper torque wrench is more accurate but they are big beasts and dont easily fit in the car and they are a bit expensive to leave lying round in the pits
Gorgeous two new GT3s, one in black one in white, sitting on OPC Reading showroom floor this morning. The black one in particular was stunning, especially sat next to a Gen2 black Turbo. The GT3 really is a great looking car.
For a fleeting second I thought to myself: with the 2nd hand value of my Turbo, it would almost be a straight swap, hmmm...
I think I'd miss the Turbo's torque too much though, and the 4wd gets me out of bother on wet/damp roads a lot too [8|]
EDIT: scratch that, I just spec'ed a new GT3 and it came to £105k!
For a fleeting second I thought to myself: with the 2nd hand value of my Turbo, it would almost be a straight swap, hmmm...
I think I'd miss the Turbo's torque too much though, and the 4wd gets me out of bother on wet/damp roads a lot too [8|]
EDIT: scratch that, I just spec'ed a new GT3 and it came to £105k!
ORIGINAL: garyw
Maybe my meaning of 'awesome' differs slightly to yours Sandy []
Fun possibly, scary probably but awesome
garyw
Hmmmmm, can we agree to disagree ??
I guess it's all relative but it's definitely awesome in the dry, and with decent temperatures in the summer I never noticed much difference in the damp.
Both brilliant cars, just slightly different.
Sandy
I did quite a few track days in my Gen 1 Turbo and found it quite easy to overtake GT 3's in the wet unless the driver was very very good. In the dry struggled to keep up with some of them so Turbo is very good in the wet. In the wet you need a softer set up and that is exactly what the Turbo has (as well as the 4 wheel drive of course). In the right hands the Turbo is a very quick car but the GT 3 is more fun to drive, a real sports car. Took mine out today and am loving it. See new post re wheel changing
I had my wheels off today so thought you guys would like to see some pics. First comment is was I was horrified to see how much salt there was under the car. You all might like to take a look under your cars and give them a clean to gget that salt off
The first challenge you face is getting the wheel hub cap out as it is real fiddly if you dont want o scratch it. I will be getting some plastic screw drivers as Clive suggests
You then need to use the provided tool to undo the centre bolt which needs up to 700NM. I use a torgue converter as the forces involved are large
Once you have "broken" the thread the centre bolt comes away easily and wheel just slides off but you do need to be careful as I cant see any way that you could use the normal wheel chaging aides.
Note the red pegs that locate in the back of the wheel
All went back together quite easily but you need to check that centre locking bolt has latched into the centre bolt itself.
Once you are used to it I would say much quicker than removing a wheel on a normal 5 bolt set up
The first challenge you face is getting the wheel hub cap out as it is real fiddly if you dont want o scratch it. I will be getting some plastic screw drivers as Clive suggests
You then need to use the provided tool to undo the centre bolt which needs up to 700NM. I use a torgue converter as the forces involved are large
Once you have "broken" the thread the centre bolt comes away easily and wheel just slides off but you do need to be careful as I cant see any way that you could use the normal wheel chaging aides.
Note the red pegs that locate in the back of the wheel
All went back together quite easily but you need to check that centre locking bolt has latched into the centre bolt itself.
Once you are used to it I would say much quicker than removing a wheel on a normal 5 bolt set up
Thanks for the heads up on the salt, Bob, I've hosed the wheel arches on mine, probably need to do the underside as well.
Looks like you and I are using the same torque multiplier as well. Agree that a full sized torque wrench might be better but difficult to stow in the car. My point about removing the centre caps is they have a rubber o-ring to seal the hub against dirt and are not the eaisest to get out as you say. This risk of damage comes to the centre nut itself when you use the slot edge as a fulcrum to lever them out, so you need something softer than aluminium.
Did you do the final tighten with the car on the deck or in the air, I find it's quite difficult to stop the wheel rotating when trying to torque to 500 Nm.
Looks like you and I are using the same torque multiplier as well. Agree that a full sized torque wrench might be better but difficult to stow in the car. My point about removing the centre caps is they have a rubber o-ring to seal the hub against dirt and are not the eaisest to get out as you say. This risk of damage comes to the centre nut itself when you use the slot edge as a fulcrum to lever them out, so you need something softer than aluminium.
Did you do the final tighten with the car on the deck or in the air, I find it's quite difficult to stop the wheel rotating when trying to torque to 500 Nm.
Mark
Ideally you need a second person to put their foot on the brake whilst you tighten up. I do the tightening with the wheel in the air and if I dont have a second person then I use a large wedge which stops the wheel rotating but allows it to slide inwards as you are tightening. The rear wheels are a bit easier as you have the handbrake and the compression from having the car in gear to help stop the rotation. Fronts are trickier though as there is nothing to stop them rotating
Ideally you need a second person to put their foot on the brake whilst you tighten up. I do the tightening with the wheel in the air and if I dont have a second person then I use a large wedge which stops the wheel rotating but allows it to slide inwards as you are tightening. The rear wheels are a bit easier as you have the handbrake and the compression from having the car in gear to help stop the rotation. Fronts are trickier though as there is nothing to stop them rotating
Bob, thanks for that. I've only tried removing a front wheel, on mine, the PDK in park should prevent the rear wheels turning.
I had another look at those centre caps and I think they're a royal pain. I tried a plastic screwdriver and it just snapped. I realise the plastic tongue is just there to locate the cap and provide a first entrance for levering the cap out but you need to work all the way round easing it out.
Of course, some may question the need to remove the wheels at all but that's not the point. Overall, I think the design is bad, even a specialist tyre place is likely to damage the finish of both the cap and the wheel nut. Perhaps it's just an area I can't afford to be prissy about!
I had another look at those centre caps and I think they're a royal pain. I tried a plastic screwdriver and it just snapped. I realise the plastic tongue is just there to locate the cap and provide a first entrance for levering the cap out but you need to work all the way round easing it out.
Of course, some may question the need to remove the wheels at all but that's not the point. Overall, I think the design is bad, even a specialist tyre place is likely to damage the finish of both the cap and the wheel nut. Perhaps it's just an area I can't afford to be prissy about!
The other thing worth mentioning is that you have to make sure that the centre locking mechanism which has an octagonal shaped socket head has to spring all the way back out as shown in my second picture above. When you insert the supplied socket the pin on the end of the socket (see picture 3) pushes in the centre lock and disengages it. I had to jiggle around with mine to get them to come all the way out and lock up. Easy to overllook
Mark,
Follow the highlighted link from my previous post. Product code is RT/KIT
It is available online from here http://www.sealeyonline.co.uk/rt-kit-trim-upholstery-tool-set-5pc.html at £15.22
Bob,
As a matter of interest, are all hubs right hand thread or are they left hand thread on the leftside? [8|]
Regards,
Clive
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