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Something i have been working on!

I always wanted a 968 turbo spoiler with adjustable bit but the guy that organises said in a conversation it has to look like a road car and retain the road car silouhette,so really any change to the way it looks is something they could pull me up on.At the minute with the clutch and other things i have had to do,anything non essential is on a backburner for this season anyway![:D]A/C removal and passenger seat is not too expensive i can manage that!!!Out they come,and also try and lose some weight myself,and maybe change the battery....and...!
 
Got my red noisy turbo out today as the sun was shining,after doing stacks of hours and miles in the blue track car all i can say is that sitting in the red car it feels very "full" of stuff in the interior and its like you are sitting on a massive cushion,and i always thought it was a bit hardcore,made me smile to myself[:D]
 
I would still really like to go out in that car. More than ever now I'm keeping my car a 2.5. It would be nice to feel what can be done with it after previously always going the bigger capacity route.

I know that feeling you mean though. I got straight out of a 996GT3 RS and into my old car at Silverstone. It felt like a lounge sofa even on KW V3's compared to the hardcore RS
 
ORIGINAL: DivineE

I would still really like to go out in that car.

Don't do it Ben, it will warp your mind (and empty your wallet). Roadgoing 944's feel like big wallowy armchairs in comparison [:D]
 
I tried to load a pic of the alternative Alternator and bracket but it was too large. I believe it is the first pic in this thread of Brian's build out of Canada:

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/563636-my-project-pictures-thread.html

 
ORIGINAL: Diver944

ORIGINAL: DivineE

I would still really like to go out in that car.

Don't do it Ben, it will warp your mind (and empty your wallet). Roadgoing 944's feel like big wallowy armchairs in comparison [:D]

I meant the other one actually. After the 1100kg TVR on after market coil overs I need no further persuasion about the benefits of a stiff light car. I will probably go for the GAZ coil overs Mark uses but with my 16" wheels on fat doughnuts and normal road weight to soften it up a bit:)
 

ORIGINAL: 333pg333

I tried to load a pic of the alternative Alternator and bracket but it was too large.

Here's a smaller one. Hope Brian is okay with me posting it here (I'm sure he is)

Alternator_Small.jpg
 
ORIGINAL: 333pg333

Ben, what is the focus of your car? Street cruiser with occasional visits to the track, or more track focussed?

It will be my only car and primarily a mile munching road car but having felt how soft KW's are on the track I think for the odd time it does get to a circuit it would really annoy me. I would like to have something many times stiffer so I can really chase down cars and live with a bit of a harsher ride on the road. I'm thinking 800 front springs and 600 rear (seems to be what everyone suggests for the track) can anyone tell me if its unbearable on the road or dangerous on motorways that stiff? My Z4m was too stiff and that was lethal on bumpy roads!
 
KW's soft? Compliant yes. Soft, no way. There is a difference. I had stock ARB's on stock but refreshed bushes and the dampers set on about 3/4 and the body roll was almost non-existant as was braking dive and rear squat under acceleration, so pretty stiff, especially for a road setup, but rides the bumps great - just what suspension is supposed to do. Granted the v3's is a street setup so for a more dedicated track car you'd want suspension that is 2 to 3 times the spring stiffness, but that's not comparing apples with apples.
 
ORIGINAL: sawood12

KW's soft? Compliant yes. Soft, no way. There is a difference. I had stock ARB's on stock but refreshed bushes and the dampers set on about 3/4 and the body roll was almost non-existant as was braking dive and rear squat under acceleration, so pretty stiff, especially for a road setup, but rides the bumps great - just what suspension is supposed to do. Granted the v3's is a street setup so for a more dedicated track car you'd want suspension that is 2 to 3 times the spring stiffness, but that's not comparing apples with apples.

I'm sure it feels great on the road, my golf did on KW's but all I can say is at Silverstone getting out of a gt3 rs into the 944 on KW's was literally like getting into a speed boat! I couldn't believe how soft it felt! It's just really put me off them. As you say though its an extreme circumstance and I will have to have suspension 2-3times too stiff for the majority of the time to make it feel as tight as a gt3 on the track.
 
Well I know of a guy who had a 993 and replaced the stock suspension with Bilstien M030's which he had on for about three weeks before swapping them for KW's as they were too stiff and aggravated his back problems. The KW's worked fine for him, and were far superior to the Bilsteins in every way. But here's the rub - the KW's had stiffer spring rates than the Bilsteins. Like I say, don't confuse compliance with lack of stiffness. The GT3RS always had a reputation for bone jarring suspension and not really being suitable for the road - but reading about the new 997 GT3RS with PASM they have made the ride almost as compliant as a stock 997 carerra whilst maintaining or even increasing spring stiffness.
 
Mark,
do yous sill holes have a section of tube welded into them or are they just a hole bored out thought the rear? I am just doing it to mine and trying to work out if I need to weld in a bit of tubing or just bore the hole and leave it?
Cheers
 
Its just a hole drilled through the sill[:)]
All the uprated clutch parts arrived.. the final bit yesterday,the car is stripped and ready so hopefully it will all go back together without too much hassle on Monday,really curious to see the change it it will make to the car and its ability to pull away a bit more sharply..[8|]
 
I am just about to change the clutch next weekend on mine. Saw in the clarks garage that its a 25 hr job but thought that seemed a bit long. I was hoping it would take about 7 hrs to get everything out and then same again to put it back together. I will be doing it on a 4 poster ramp with two friends. Am I being optimistic?
 
Sandy, the biggest problem with a turbo clutch is getting the exhaust off! As long as all the bolts comes out fine, it cuts down on the time greatly. Worth getting new bearings for the release fork and a new shaft, most I have seen have had pitted pins with the rollers seizing on the shaft! Makes the clutch release so much smoother. Strip and clean your gearlinkage on top of the box when the box is off and also have a very good look at your top gearbox rubber mount as most are now starting to pull away from the metal backing of the mounts. New ones are £130 but better than your gearbox fallingout with a bit of spirited driving!
999 201 215 00 Needle sleeve x 2
951 116 133 00 Operating shaft x 1
The guide sleeve that the release bearing sits on as well can sometimes also get quite a ramp in it, 016 141 181 is the part number for that.
Hope this is of some help,
Alasdair
 

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