what did you do to your 944 today
- Thread starter colin944
- Start date
924Srr27l
New member
blade7 said:924Srr27l said:
I don't agree with you.
Back in the real world where everyone on here drives or rides....There's several videos on youtube, filmed on tracks featuring road bikes and road hyper cars that anyone can buy. Quite often the bike can lap quicker...Having said that the older I get the faster I was, and my brain is probably slightly bigger than my balls now [], so I'd prefer go around somewhere like the Nurburgring on 4 wheels rather than 2.
Back in the real world, I've been kicking Biker's butts that's the top and bottom of it on public roads, and many (like you & others) get really frustrated and angry about it! Which is not necessary, and I don;t understand why? other than they "think" they are Mustard and how dare a car even have a go let alone stay in front.
If anyone wants to "play" in any vehicle with me on public roads great let's get on with it, but bikes especially and car drivers too
often get very road raged when I (and many other drivers / racers I know) have a go and beat them...
Back on the Racing scene, Oulton Park 2017, My friend put the British GT Bentley on Pole in 1m 32.9,
British Superbikes Leon Haslam 's pole was 1m 34.1
The 4.0 V8 Bentley with driver is approx 1400kg and 500bhp, the Kawasaki 200bhp+? and 240kg?
The Bike & rider has over twice the Power to weight ratio but is slower round the circuit because 4 wheels generate higher
G forces around corners and can brake in shorter braking distances..Just as Road car's can too against Bikes on the road.
R
924Srr27l
New member
blade7 said:
I disagree, if you're suggesting it's me ?
It is I admit an almost impossible task to even attempt to describe and explain the car v bike differences to Bikers as they just clearly
don't and won't have it...
Did your Huge bike PTW figure include a rider btw?
R
924Srr27l
New member
blade7 said:
Your kidding , I've had enough grief with bikers as it is! without wanting any more...
This is a big factor to consider, for me (and anyone) that if you challenge them there could be consequences because
some don't take kindly to it, there are many riders that of course ride nicely and do not want a Race or if they do
they don't get aggressive.
It the same for many things in life, there's always somebody who ruins it for everybody else.
I don't think your Huge bike PTW figure included a rider btw?
R
I'll email them to you, got fed up trying to attach them to this post! It should be M12x1.5, I also ordered this off ebay just in case...:Eldavo said:
[link=http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282357427704?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=581476941603&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282357427704?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=581476941603&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT[/link]
PSH
PCGB Member
I've had a bit of an issue with the car over the last couple of days and couldn't quite work out what was up....symptoms were confusing... idle was a little erratic... would sit high when cold (1600) and only drop down to about 1200 when warm, this after a sudden drop to around 800 before settling at 1200. The exhaust was burbling a lot more too and not just on overrun, but idle too. Add to this a flutter under load but not on high boost which would kick in about 4 out of 5 times with no signs of flutter....this confused me a little clearly I had an air leak but also seem to have a boost leak too, were they linked or were they a coincidence that was leading to further confusion. I could not find any sign of hoses being loose, or such
Today being a nice sunny day I decided it was time for a road test to hopefully find the problem, a quick blast up the A41 was what the doctor ordered. Before getting to the main road I noticed that the flutter was still there (on and off) and that it would still boost when no flutter making think that the hoses were ok. Once on the A41 I could push a little harder, the car was fast but didn't feel as fast as it usually is, I applied more throttle than I ever have before and although I was accelerating rapidly it still felt slow, the solenoid was clicking away as per usual.
It then dawned on me that something was missing, other than the usual very rapid acceleration that is...there was no 'blip' from the boost gauge to say that I had hit 1BAR? I have this set as a warning to stop me getting carried away as with the duty cycle set as it is(85%) the boost can spike to very high levels. Usually, this blip sounds within a second or two of hitting boost and here I was sitting on an empty stretch of A41 moving quickly bust no blip? I floored it (96%) car ran perfectly, nice and smooth but no sudden push into the seat as was the norm and I looked at the boost gauge that was fixed at 0.9BAR, it would not go higher. Aha, I say there must be a boost leak somewhere although in the past the car wouldn't run so smoothly with any of the hoses lose.
I stopped at my son's in Tring and over a coffee took a closer look at the car, at first I couldn't see anything but then noticed that the intercooler connection to throttle hardpipe had slipped off the pipe and yet was in such a position close to the lamp pole that it blended into the hard pipe, I mean it was up tight against the edge of the hardpipe and thus was sealed but clearly the hose was flexing under boost, especially when high. Great I say and after a bit of juggling I had the hose repositioned and tightened up ( note to self, make the proper hardpipes up and ditch these supposedly temporary ones). That left the idle issues to sort, again after a little rooting around and checking the most obvious items i discovered that the throttle idle valve's seal was looking a little hard. I had some 'O' rings in the car (part of my classic car tool kit) and found one that wasn't perfect but close enough, I wrapped some PTFE tape around the thread and reset the idle to 900rpm.
Result?...what a difference.....I had my amazing speed machine back with all of it's horses running together again, it's amazing the difference between 0.9BAR and 1.2BAR... don't get me wrong the car was still very fast with the issue, it just didn't have that..OMG feeling as you try to hold on to the steering wheel.....I was good and didn't take it to the 1.5BAR that the overboost protection is set at...
I'm a happy boy again and it was such a simple fix even if a little confusing having two separate issues at the same time....
So, if anyone else with a modified turbo has similar problems hopefully this post may help.......
Pete
Today being a nice sunny day I decided it was time for a road test to hopefully find the problem, a quick blast up the A41 was what the doctor ordered. Before getting to the main road I noticed that the flutter was still there (on and off) and that it would still boost when no flutter making think that the hoses were ok. Once on the A41 I could push a little harder, the car was fast but didn't feel as fast as it usually is, I applied more throttle than I ever have before and although I was accelerating rapidly it still felt slow, the solenoid was clicking away as per usual.
It then dawned on me that something was missing, other than the usual very rapid acceleration that is...there was no 'blip' from the boost gauge to say that I had hit 1BAR? I have this set as a warning to stop me getting carried away as with the duty cycle set as it is(85%) the boost can spike to very high levels. Usually, this blip sounds within a second or two of hitting boost and here I was sitting on an empty stretch of A41 moving quickly bust no blip? I floored it (96%) car ran perfectly, nice and smooth but no sudden push into the seat as was the norm and I looked at the boost gauge that was fixed at 0.9BAR, it would not go higher. Aha, I say there must be a boost leak somewhere although in the past the car wouldn't run so smoothly with any of the hoses lose.
I stopped at my son's in Tring and over a coffee took a closer look at the car, at first I couldn't see anything but then noticed that the intercooler connection to throttle hardpipe had slipped off the pipe and yet was in such a position close to the lamp pole that it blended into the hard pipe, I mean it was up tight against the edge of the hardpipe and thus was sealed but clearly the hose was flexing under boost, especially when high. Great I say and after a bit of juggling I had the hose repositioned and tightened up ( note to self, make the proper hardpipes up and ditch these supposedly temporary ones). That left the idle issues to sort, again after a little rooting around and checking the most obvious items i discovered that the throttle idle valve's seal was looking a little hard. I had some 'O' rings in the car (part of my classic car tool kit) and found one that wasn't perfect but close enough, I wrapped some PTFE tape around the thread and reset the idle to 900rpm.
Result?...what a difference.....I had my amazing speed machine back with all of it's horses running together again, it's amazing the difference between 0.9BAR and 1.2BAR... don't get me wrong the car was still very fast with the issue, it just didn't have that..OMG feeling as you try to hold on to the steering wheel.....I was good and didn't take it to the 1.5BAR that the overboost protection is set at...
I'm a happy boy again and it was such a simple fix even if a little confusing having two separate issues at the same time....
So, if anyone else with a modified turbo has similar problems hopefully this post may help.......
Pete
Glad it was sorted simply. I managed to pop a hard pipe off on track and the car ran like an utter dog until I could nurse it into the pits - sod's law it had popped off on the main straight just as I started another lap!
With regards to the throttle body seals, I fitted the Arnnworx reseal kit - some of the old ones were pretty much dust.
With regards to the throttle body seals, I fitted the Arnnworx reseal kit - some of the old ones were pretty much dust.
924Srr27l
New member
More Road Mileage over the weekend has highlighted more changes and upgrades are required to get the car nearer to 100%
- Suspension (In progress , lower wishbone / track rod Extensions being designed & made)
- Tyres (trackday based R888 & NS2-R's too stiff sidewall's for road use, changed back to Michelin Pilot Sport 3's)
- Fuel Smells in the cabin when cornering hard and more than a 1/4 tank. (I need to investigate where they are coming from)
- Brakes (Good but a little spongy, I'm changing the aluminium caliper brackets for Steel as I think they are flexing)
- Clutch fluid leak (Reservoir hose leaking, dripping on the exhaust + air in the system?)
- Clutch pedal operation difficult (Not helped by the seating position (which is on the floor) the angle of the pedal is not ideal,
the bite point has always been high but now feels even higher and it's difficult to operate against the Power Spring,
which I might try and adjust or remove it.
- Gear shifting difficulties the engine 's rpm rises very quickly and the gearshift position is too far away from me, too high up
(Because my seat is low to clear the 380mm wheel) and also too chunky and stiff to be able to change gear as quick as I would like when on full chat. I want to design a new stick which is further across more towards the steering wheel also with a narrower shaft and smaller gearknob.
An example is Justin Mather who Sprints / hillclimbs a 924S
This is 2014 with a Standard gearknob, see how far his arm has to reach to engage 1st and to pull 3rd into 4th etc.
Also watch how his hand pulls and pushes the shaft and not the top of the ball.
[link=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lx6DbTSQVI8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lx6DbTSQVI8[/link]
Then in 2015 he has a different thinner stem and knob fitted which is much closer to his knee and the steering wheel
[link=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unNe2NJi-hY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-Hp3_uFC1c[/link]
R
- Suspension (In progress , lower wishbone / track rod Extensions being designed & made)
- Tyres (trackday based R888 & NS2-R's too stiff sidewall's for road use, changed back to Michelin Pilot Sport 3's)
- Fuel Smells in the cabin when cornering hard and more than a 1/4 tank. (I need to investigate where they are coming from)
- Brakes (Good but a little spongy, I'm changing the aluminium caliper brackets for Steel as I think they are flexing)
- Clutch fluid leak (Reservoir hose leaking, dripping on the exhaust + air in the system?)
- Clutch pedal operation difficult (Not helped by the seating position (which is on the floor) the angle of the pedal is not ideal,
the bite point has always been high but now feels even higher and it's difficult to operate against the Power Spring,
which I might try and adjust or remove it.
- Gear shifting difficulties the engine 's rpm rises very quickly and the gearshift position is too far away from me, too high up
(Because my seat is low to clear the 380mm wheel) and also too chunky and stiff to be able to change gear as quick as I would like when on full chat. I want to design a new stick which is further across more towards the steering wheel also with a narrower shaft and smaller gearknob.
An example is Justin Mather who Sprints / hillclimbs a 924S
This is 2014 with a Standard gearknob, see how far his arm has to reach to engage 1st and to pull 3rd into 4th etc.
Also watch how his hand pulls and pushes the shaft and not the top of the ball.
[link=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lx6DbTSQVI8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lx6DbTSQVI8[/link]
Then in 2015 he has a different thinner stem and knob fitted which is much closer to his knee and the steering wheel
[link=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unNe2NJi-hY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-Hp3_uFC1c[/link]
R
wolfie308
New member
Picked up 'Bluey' from Promax this afternoon...12k service and all belts, crankshaft pulley wheel and MOT with no advisories...happy days []
Remembering a comment a while back re Promax not being interested in 944's any more, talking to Andy today, he said they're more than happy to service them. it's just they don't see so many these days. Still regularly do work on Boxsters and 911 variants, but bulk of their work now comes from the Monaro market.
]Remembering a comment a while back re Promax not being interested in 944's any more, talking to Andy today, he said they're more than happy to service them. it's just they don't see so many these days. Still regularly do work on Boxsters and 911 variants, but bulk of their work now comes from the Monaro market.
924Srr27l
New member
Eldavo said:Been to see a local classic car restoration place this morning for a few jobs to be looked at.
Fast forward an hour and I've agreed to a full glass-out respray with all the body panels being worked on in some way too for double the original quote [
Sounds Like a bargain, only twice the price from the few jobs to be looked at compared to a full glass out respray!
You must of spent the hour well convincing the garage to do such a good deal...
Be ready for September then ?
R
Yup - original quote was "about £2k" but after spending an hour going round the car with a fine tooth comb we decided on doing it properly.
Should've been £5k+ but brought it down to £4k due to several factors. Change in overall value isn't a consideration as I'm not selling it but it'll be done right and that's the important bit. Work starts at the beginning of August and should be done for when I get back from two weeks in Mexico at the start of September.
Also painting my original bonnet and badge panel so ive got options too.
Should've been £5k+ but brought it down to £4k due to several factors. Change in overall value isn't a consideration as I'm not selling it but it'll be done right and that's the important bit. Work starts at the beginning of August and should be done for when I get back from two weeks in Mexico at the start of September.
Also painting my original bonnet and badge panel so ive got options too.
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