Young man's first Porsche aka project 951
- Thread starter os951
- Start date
Thanks guys. All comments are welcome,nothing special in our project. We have done all things so far with very low budjet since my son is a student and we are not going the route "father-pays-everything". My son has done most of the work himself, learns 951's little by little.So far he has worked with his VW Golf VR6. Total cost so far is 600€ including 951 [
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]Patrick, Audi LM5U blue is the same color as Porsche Diamond Blue LM5U. We used Audi color, because painter wanted to use "old fashioned toxic paint" instead of new "water colors". Local paint store did not find mixing formula of Porsche color; just water color one. So i asked them to check out Audi version as well. Most colors Porsche have used can also be found from Audi/VW charts. In some picture this color might look like silver, but that's is to blame my crabby Samsung camera [] In live this color is excately the same as original color is.
] In live this color is excately the same as original color is.We have spent some time to locate parts we need for the project. Also some clean up has been done. Most of the undercarriage parts will be either yellow passived or powder coated back to their original condition. Some rear axle parts (bolts, nuts, washer etc.) in citric acid bath
Parts after citric acid treatment
Parts will look like this after new yellow passive (ZNC) tratment
morris944s2john
New member
Great work! By the way, if no-one else here has tried this, the citric acid method is a brilliant way of removing rust from small items- non toxic and safe to pour down the drain afterwards. You can get citric acid for about £2 a kilo on Ebay. You do need to stabilise the steel after the citric acid bath, though. I brush steel parts with phosphoric acid to prevent immediate re-rusting. Bilt-hamber package citric acid in 500g bottles, call it "deoxit", stick a label on it and sell it for £10!!!!! I have even dipped the bottom of a Morris Minor door in a couple of inches of 5% citric acid in the bath overnight. Worked brilliantly!
Well, after citric acid treatment they won't be rusty anymore [] I usually buy acid from a local farming store; where you get 5 KG for 20€. It's 99% citric acid ment for healing porks soare bellies. I have had yellow passived parts quite many times. Every single bolt, nut, washer and another piece which can be passived cost about 40€. So you can do one car really cheap.
] I usually buy acid from a local farming store; where you get 5 KG for 20€. It's 99% citric acid ment for healing porks soare bellies. I have had yellow passived parts quite many times. Every single bolt, nut, washer and another piece which can be passived cost about 40€. So you can do one car really cheap.
Catamax944
New member
Do you zinc treat the parts yourself or send them off to a professional? If you do it yourself what is the process? Btw: Great work on the car so far!
Visit a friend who runs a autoglass shop. He promised to come over to my son's garage and install a new windshield to 951. His hobby cars are old Detroit iron.
If you do not have anything to do in your summer cottage in the Finnish lake distric (little bit over 200.000 lakes there), just clean and fix some of engineroom wireing loom [8D]
We have prepared all kind of small parts to be installed to engineroom. Since engineroom is painted we would not like to install back dirty/rusty/nasty etc. parts. Brakebooster turned out nicely after some treatment. btw. it was taken from a 951 which was imported from UK to Finland for parts.
I transported a lot of parts, like control arms, torquetube carriers etc.etc yesterday to a powdercoater's. Will get parts back tomorrow. Cost us only about 5€, because i chipped powdercoater's 944 S2 [] It's nice when you can do cars without paying arm and leg of it.
] It's nice when you can do cars without paying arm and leg of it.Most of the parts have been powder coated and some of the are still at the platers shop to be yellow passived. Most undergarriage parts got rather dull "Platinum Grey" powder on them. We wanted to use powder coat, because it would be easier to keep these parts clean compared to "plain" aluminium. Here's picture of one control arm from where you get the idea of the color we used.
As a side project we re-contioned front brakes of friends 951
morris944s2john
New member
Lovely job, especially on the callipers. Were those powder coated too?
I usually remove pistons and slide plates first. Pistons must be removed because powder will be ruined if any fluid gets into the fresh powder coat. Removing those two screws is very easy to do.I always weld with MIG new screws to the old ones. When you use MIG, it makes a lot of heat also to old scerw melting the locking fluid they used at Brembo factory. Then just un screw new screw with old one without any pain. I removed 8 screws less than ten minutes. After that i clean all the remaining fuids off from the cylinders.Then remove gasket and just put pistons back with dustseals only.Do not install seal which can be found from cylinder.Then calipers are ready for powder coater(of course i usually media blast them first) When you get calipers back just clean pistons & dustseals with paint stripper; fresh powder is really easy to remove (if new parts are not in your plans).
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