Vinyl is a great move. Will be ordering for mine once it's back from the paint shop!
944 Turbo S Engine Rebuild Thread
- Thread starter Eldavo
- Start date
With a Trackday in a couple of weeks I decided to try and get to the bottom of why my oil temperature display didn’t work.
When I’d put the engine back together I had the sump drilled and tapped for a Bosch BMW sensor. I’d made a harness to run back into the passenger footwell, wired it into a spare analog input on VEMS and even transposed the temperature:resistance values into the software to generate an accurate curve. But it still didn’t work.
Sensor was reading the correct resistance for the sump temperature (as checked by IR thermometer) - so time to start checking the other end of that wire!
When I’d put the engine back together I had the sump drilled and tapped for a Bosch BMW sensor. I’d made a harness to run back into the passenger footwell, wired it into a spare analog input on VEMS and even transposed the temperature:resistance values into the software to generate an accurate curve. But it still didn’t work.
Sensor was reading the correct resistance for the sump temperature (as checked by IR thermometer) - so time to start checking the other end of that wire!
Resistance was correct at the other end of the harness, and at the EC18 plug into the ECU. I even double checked I’d got the pinout correct and went through the settings on the laptop again.
Head was well and truly being scratched.
Some more digging later and it turned out that the ground I’d connected to was listed elsewhere as "optional” and sure enough when I checked it for continuity with a ground pin on the larger connector it wasn’t actually connected to anything. Rather than mess about altering the 2 different looms, connectors and pinouts I was told about a solder pad in the ECU that when bridged - switched the optional ground on. So a short while later I bridged the pad in the centre of the pic and I had a connection.
Head was well and truly being scratched.
Some more digging later and it turned out that the ground I’d connected to was listed elsewhere as "optional” and sure enough when I checked it for continuity with a ground pin on the larger connector it wasn’t actually connected to anything. Rather than mess about altering the 2 different looms, connectors and pinouts I was told about a solder pad in the ECU that when bridged - switched the optional ground on. So a short while later I bridged the pad in the centre of the pic and I had a connection.
A quick drag, drop and resize and I had a working oil temp gauge for my regular and "track” views on the VEMSDisplay Android App.
I’ll keep an eye on temps at my trackday (twin factory coolers, extended lines and just shy of an extra litre’s capacity) and take my laptop so I can programme an over temperature alarm or some kind of boost reduction if needs be.
I’ll keep an eye on temps at my trackday (twin factory coolers, extended lines and just shy of an extra litre’s capacity) and take my laptop so I can programme an over temperature alarm or some kind of boost reduction if needs be.
[attachment=E36DC895-F55A-46CA...B81D3034(1)(1).jpeg]
Fitted my 17” R&R Alloys Fuchs wheels and track tyres but needed to scrub them in before a Trackday next week so went out for an early morning spin with some friends. A GT3 is rather menacing in your rear view mirror and rather difficult to keep up with on some of the twisties too - I’m sure PSH would’ve despatched him with 72.9% throttle though.
I‘ve been getting some brake squeal which I put down to fitting my track pads too but it got worse throughout the run until it was pretty much unbearable. Pulled the discs off later that day and they were very uneven.
Dropped them off with my motorsport mates and they said that to skim them level they’d be down to 30mm which is minimum disc thickness so a new pair of M030 discs ordered.
Edit - dunno why one pic is upside down, usual forum photo issues
Fitted my 17” R&R Alloys Fuchs wheels and track tyres but needed to scrub them in before a Trackday next week so went out for an early morning spin with some friends. A GT3 is rather menacing in your rear view mirror and rather difficult to keep up with on some of the twisties too - I’m sure PSH would’ve despatched him with 72.9% throttle though.
I‘ve been getting some brake squeal which I put down to fitting my track pads too but it got worse throughout the run until it was pretty much unbearable. Pulled the discs off later that day and they were very uneven.
Dropped them off with my motorsport mates and they said that to skim them level they’d be down to 30mm which is minimum disc thickness so a new pair of M030 discs ordered.
Edit - dunno why one pic is upside down, usual forum photo issues
Pair of Sebro discs turned up next day - cleaned everything out (still zero plate lift 6 years after having the calipers refurbed).
Found some new backing/damping pads I didn’t realise I had so fitted those too. Prepped the pads, refitted everything and went out for a spin - once the tyres were warmed up i did some heavy stops from speed.
Bloody Hell! I‘d forgotten just how potent the brakes are - I could absolutely stomp on the pedal with the slightest ABS click over road undulations and it just stood on its nose.
Standard M030 brakes (928 S4 Medium Blacks), Mintex M1144 pads, 944T and 968 brake cooling ducts, Nankang NS2-R semi slick tyres.
Found some new backing/damping pads I didn’t realise I had so fitted those too. Prepped the pads, refitted everything and went out for a spin - once the tyres were warmed up i did some heavy stops from speed.
Bloody Hell! I‘d forgotten just how potent the brakes are - I could absolutely stomp on the pedal with the slightest ABS click over road undulations and it just stood on its nose.
Standard M030 brakes (928 S4 Medium Blacks), Mintex M1144 pads, 944T and 968 brake cooling ducts, Nankang NS2-R semi slick tyres.
And if a new pair of discs and a couple of tanks of fuel weren’t enough this week - my custom clutch disc from Helix Clutches was ready, price had gone up a bit - £351 now but if it works and I don’t have to go back in there again when the new engine is fitted it’ll be worth every penny!
scam75
Well-known member
Lovely stuff! My new cup clutch disc feels so much nicer than before, albeit I have a new bearing and pressure plate as well which will be helping.
And stopping fast is just as important as accelerating fast, glad your brakes have had some attention!
All my squealing, and there have been loads (not just when building my engine
), was down to "Pagid" pads from ECP. No amount of shims or fettling, or new pads cured it. Got some Textar pads up front (with OEM shims) and all is good. Got Brembo ones on the rear, no OEM shims but have the metal plate thingies, and they are super quiet also. I still have the ECP Pagid discs all round, these seem to be still decent unlike the new generation of their pads since they bought the name over, and cheap as chips. The pads are actually not cheap as chips, but you might be better using chips in place of them.
On the plate lift subject, my rear calipers were bought by the previous owner, some 17 years ago, on a special order from Kwik Fit of all places, and they exhibit zero plate lift to this day and work great. Fronts however, have been rebuilt twice in the last 10 years, I think they suffer more from plate lift as they do more of the braking.
Stuart
And stopping fast is just as important as accelerating fast, glad your brakes have had some attention!
All my squealing, and there have been loads (not just when building my engine
), was down to "Pagid" pads from ECP. No amount of shims or fettling, or new pads cured it. Got some Textar pads up front (with OEM shims) and all is good. Got Brembo ones on the rear, no OEM shims but have the metal plate thingies, and they are super quiet also. I still have the ECP Pagid discs all round, these seem to be still decent unlike the new generation of their pads since they bought the name over, and cheap as chips. The pads are actually not cheap as chips, but you might be better using chips in place of them.On the plate lift subject, my rear calipers were bought by the previous owner, some 17 years ago, on a special order from Kwik Fit of all places, and they exhibit zero plate lift to this day and work great. Fronts however, have been rebuilt twice in the last 10 years, I think they suffer more from plate lift as they do more of the braking.
Stuart
Turbo outlet pipe isn’t actually connected to anything - that’s just a silicone pipe I was using to gauge clearance that’s stuffed out of the way while I was fitting the elbow.
I’m using the Lindsey Racing turbo outlet pipe from my other engine and that comes neatly through the gap and over the water pipe. It’s then a straight shot to the intercooler inlet. Will wait until it’s on the car and then get my welder to bead roll me a straight tube to the right length with a bung for the banjo bolt on there too.
I’m using the Lindsey Racing turbo outlet pipe from my other engine and that comes neatly through the gap and over the water pipe. It’s then a straight shot to the intercooler inlet. Will wait until it’s on the car and then get my welder to bead roll me a straight tube to the right length with a bung for the banjo bolt on there too.
Had a great day at Croft circuit on Monday.
Car ran great all day, although I did change out the spark plugs to a colder range at lunchtime as they were cooked.
Got some motorsport ones now that my friend uses in his race car after having the same issues so will hopefully be a zero maintenance track car.
Brakes and Tyres were still spot on and I was staying out for 15+ laps at a time.
PSH would be proud of me as I even passed a 991.2 GT3 4.0 (Being driven by the owner’s son under instruction on his first track day).
Car ran great all day, although I did change out the spark plugs to a colder range at lunchtime as they were cooked.
Got some motorsport ones now that my friend uses in his race car after having the same issues so will hopefully be a zero maintenance track car.
Brakes and Tyres were still spot on and I was staying out for 15+ laps at a time.
PSH would be proud of me as I even passed a 991.2 GT3 4.0 (Being driven by the owner’s son under instruction on his first track day).
TTM said:"zero maintenance track car" :
Looking good, nice to see some track action. You have left the [strike]dirt traps[/strike] side skirts off on purpose I suppose?
Tongue was firmly in cheek typing that, there’s no such thing as a zero maintenance 944 as you well know! [
]My car came to me without the skirts 10 years ago and given how low it was I never bothered sourcing a set. I’ve raised the ride height a bit now and never really given it another thought. When I fitted new front wings I think I even had the attachment points removed. As you said - one less thing to clean behind or catch on a kerb.
scam75 said:
Standard WR7s will be absolutely fine on the road - even at 18psi. I run WR6 usually but run quite a bit of advance on my cam and 21psi. They overheat on track and then start cutting out at high boost (even with a wasted spark coil pack). WR5 fare a bit better on track but the car HATES them when cold - literally won’t run at less than 1500rpm until up to temp.
The Burton Power motorsport ones are akin to a WR6 in temp range but with big fat terminals to resist cam advance overheating - I’ll report back when I’ve picked them up later.
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