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Beaky's Diet


ORIGINAL: John Sims
There are and the bonnet may well add little as Simon has suggested. It obviously adds something as the hinges have additional brackets to lock the bonnet down. It would take a lot of energy to bend a bonnet and all dispersed energy is good if you are having a crash.......it is all a bit of an excuse though as, given the money I would have one like a shot. [8|]

Those hooks are there to stop the bonnet coming through the windscreen in a frontal impact. The TR7 also has similar or I probably wouldn't be here, I believe it was one of the first designs to have them, the bonnet ripped into twisted shreds instead of doing a guillotine impersonation.

Tony
 
Youll find similar parts on the rear of the torque tube; designed to increase the vehicles resistance to rear impact.
 
The arrival of Beaky's second seat is imminent so should certainly be ready for Gaydon [:)].

This time I will weigh both seats to get a proper view on the saving. The drivers seat would have been greater as it had two motors but I can't measure that now.

I also need to weigh the rear seat backs.

That will then be it for the current diet so I will visit a weigh bridge when all is done to see the results.
 
My super accurate bathroom scales (not!) say one of my half seat backs (split rear seats) it 4 Kg so 8Kg total. This is with cloth which is lighter than leather.

Other measurements:-

Old cloth sports seat with 2 motors - 22 Kg each

New seats including mounts - 12 Kg each

.'. saving for two seats and seats backs is 28 Kgs [8D]
 
A GRP bonnet will save about 17 kilos and a PC hatch about 15 kilos. If youre reluctant to fit a lightweight Odyssey battery then a good quality (high output) Varta 36amp battery will save a good deal over the standard 63+amp part...
 

ORIGINAL: 944 man

A GRP bonnet will save about 17 kilos and a PC hatch about 15 kilos.  If youre reluctant to fit a lightweight Odyssey battery then a good quality (high output) Varta 36amp battery will save a good deal over the standard 63+amp part...

Steel bonnet from my S2 weighed 17.2 Kg complete, GRP bonnets can weigh as much as 12 Kg.
 
I confess that both weights were taken from a German site, as I havent weighed my own. Have I lost all weight saving credibility? [:D]
 
Nope, as you said the wiring loom is very heavy, I weighed it and 22.4 Kg not including the engine or doors is indeed very heavy.
 
Yep but you're not going to get very far without a wiring loom. What is the nett weight saving once you replace the stock wiring loom with a replacement?
 
ORIGINAL: Neil Haughey


ORIGINAL: 944 man

A GRP bonnet will save about 17 kilos and a PC hatch about 15 kilos. If youre reluctant to fit a lightweight Odyssey battery then a good quality (high output) Varta 36amp battery will save a good deal over the standard 63+amp part...

Steel bonnet from my S2 weighed 17.2 Kg complete, GRP bonnets can weigh as much as 12 Kg.

That agrees with what I found, although my scales said my bonnet without sound deadening was closer to 20kg (but they're hardly accurate). My new bonnet was under half that, although I guess there's quite a bit more that could be saved if you're prepared to go for a non braced race part with latches.

For me the gel battery is about a 10kg saving but this is specified for road rather than race use.
 
Second seat is in and looks superb. I would post some pictures but the idiots who register my domain name have, yet again, forgotten to renew my registration. Guess who will be getting a phone call on Monday.
 
ORIGINAL: Big Dave UK

John.
The rear seat backs weight in at 9kg.
The rear seat belts come in at 2.5kg...

An original type one piece seat back weighs a shade under 11 kilogrammes including the luggage blind. Im surprised that the later type split seats are so heavy.
 
These were the weights of a 968 sport rear seat back + belts....I guess there the same as a S2/turbo.???
 
Is there much weight to the rear seat base ?

I've taken out the rear backrest which did seem fairly heavy and as nobody ever sits in the back was not needed. Also scraped off the rubber backing to the boot carpet.
 
ORIGINAL: John Sims

Second seat is in and looks superb. I would post some pictures but the idiots who register my domain name have, yet again, forgotten to renew my registration. Guess who will be getting a phone call on Monday.

Now that that is sorted.

New seat picture looking outrageously sexy:-

small_seat.jpg


Fitting the passenger seat was far less onerous than the drivers side as location isn't quite as critical. Employing one or two tricks I developed, and thought about, after fitting the first seat helped considerably.
 
Have you adapted the seat belt buckle arm onto the subframe? Or, have you used the original tunnel mounted seatbelt fixings which IIRC, are still incorporated into the series two body?

Simon
 
My original seat belt arms were bolted to the seat runners. I took them off and bolted them to the new seat mounting plates. These are steel in this case and will provide equal if not greater anchorage than the original fixing. The original uses a number of relatively thin folded steel sections welded to each other where as this is one thick section bolted directly to the floor.

The arm did need bending to sit properly but is otherwise original.I took some pictures which I will upload once I have reduced them.

I have seen examples on the web where people have just bolted the seat belt arm on using the rear bolt through the seat side. I am no expert but would have to suggest this approach is far from desirable.

 

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