Hi Ralph.
As I feared,
Ian
As I feared,
Ian
Cayman GT4: Where are we up to now?
- Thread starter Motorhead
- Start date
Yeah, fear was related to the N rating. The Supersports would be a good option plus there is a replacement for this and the Sport combined - it would be nice if it was approved by Porsche
I did purchase a set of additional wheels and fitted them with Pirelli's as they were the only tyres of the correct size that were N rated and in the end I got fed up with the warranty issue and seeing that I had the same tyres on my 997 Turbo S and my 991 4S with no major problems decided to fit them.
I know most would fit the Michelin PS but to be fair with a couple of trips into Wales on some very nice clear twisty roads the Pirelli's have performed very good and it takes away any warranty issue, the cup 2's will be refitted shortly.
Ralpmusic, I believe the block exemption warranty rule is only for 2 years as the third year warranty is an insurance policy type, but I'm sure someone with more knowledge than me will come along and confirm either way.
SteveJC
I know most would fit the Michelin PS but to be fair with a couple of trips into Wales on some very nice clear twisty roads the Pirelli's have performed very good and it takes away any warranty issue, the cup 2's will be refitted shortly.
Ralpmusic, I believe the block exemption warranty rule is only for 2 years as the third year warranty is an insurance policy type, but I'm sure someone with more knowledge than me will come along and confirm either way.
SteveJC
MrDemon said:
Correct, 3 years factory warranty. Should be in the car's paperwork.
matthewlatter
New member
Well I'm 1200 miles in and I am missing my 911(991). Anyone else feeling this way?
matthewlatter
New member
You can't beat a 911 4 seater when you have young kids. Just not really using it like I did the 911.
Ralph, I've just waded through the first of the 2 Rennlist items. That guy is keen! He's altered so much and spent a serious amount on improving his car for track work. Fair play.
There seems to be questions regarding ideal tyre pressures - warm days, cold days, starting pressure and pressure at the end of a session. He also clearly has issues with TPMS and frequent alarms. Can it be turned off or is there a sensible way of using it on track days with wildly varying pressures?
There seems to be questions regarding ideal tyre pressures - warm days, cold days, starting pressure and pressure at the end of a session. He also clearly has issues with TPMS and frequent alarms. Can it be turned off or is there a sensible way of using it on track days with wildly varying pressures?
Don't start too cold, it wreaks tyres, drop 4psi to start, do 2 laps, drop again do 4 laps check PSI and finalise.
Do good cooling down laps for your car, (so many don't)
aim for 33/34 psi hot imo if you have no idea what to set them at. (NEVER COPY PEOPLES PSI's though) every one drives to a standard with a different geo, you set tyres by pyro, not by what the next man does.
The USA guys drive hard and stay out a fair while, I tend to drive 85% and do 6 or 7 laps.
I have been to track days seen cars with -3 camber and PSI so low when they come in the tyres are a mess, people do like to copy the race driver set up ! when they are 60% of the pace and go and do 4 laps at a time ! and that -3 camber is never used !!
Track work at the min needs front shims and adjustable rear toe links, both of which mine has.
I have gone for a fast road set up which will allow me the odd track day with -2.3 camber up front and -1.8 in the rear with rear ARB on full stiff.
I am finding I don't need as much on the rear due to having the ARB stiff, a lot keep ARB middle, but on the road for me rear ARB stiff is working well.
I might tweak that after a full track and pyro session, But I want my car to be the best it can on the road, and not kill tyres on track.
oem is -1.5 camber CS race cars are -3.5 camber so you have to pick a figure inbetween those, anything over -2.5 kills inners on the road though.
Do good cooling down laps for your car, (so many don't)
aim for 33/34 psi hot imo if you have no idea what to set them at. (NEVER COPY PEOPLES PSI's though) every one drives to a standard with a different geo, you set tyres by pyro, not by what the next man does.
The USA guys drive hard and stay out a fair while, I tend to drive 85% and do 6 or 7 laps.
I have been to track days seen cars with -3 camber and PSI so low when they come in the tyres are a mess, people do like to copy the race driver set up ! when they are 60% of the pace and go and do 4 laps at a time ! and that -3 camber is never used !!
Track work at the min needs front shims and adjustable rear toe links, both of which mine has.
I have gone for a fast road set up which will allow me the odd track day with -2.3 camber up front and -1.8 in the rear with rear ARB on full stiff.
I am finding I don't need as much on the rear due to having the ARB stiff, a lot keep ARB middle, but on the road for me rear ARB stiff is working well.
I might tweak that after a full track and pyro session, But I want my car to be the best it can on the road, and not kill tyres on track.
oem is -1.5 camber CS race cars are -3.5 camber so you have to pick a figure inbetween those, anything over -2.5 kills inners on the road though.
ian harvey said:
Ian,
Mr D would be better placed to comment on the TPMS alarms as he does a few track days with his GT4. I guess as a safety feature it might not be possible to disable it but isn't there a feature where you can set a new normal for the alarm parameters?
Ralph
Steve Brookes
Moderator
ralphmusic said:
Ask Chris Whittle....I'm sure he's found that there is a 'track setting' which you can select for the TPMS.
you need to stabilize the pressures, hence only doing 2 laps coming in and repeat. then set the TPMS to the track setting.
Again another reason NOT to go out with 24psi cold tyres like a lot of people do !
If you leave the car it reverts back to non track, so you have to remember to set the track setting every time you go out.
Cup 2 stabilize quite quick, Dunlops I found did not stabilize as quick or though out the day, I chassed PSI on Race maxx all day, hated that tyre ended up binning them 1/2 worn.
Again another reason NOT to go out with 24psi cold tyres like a lot of people do !
If you leave the car it reverts back to non track, so you have to remember to set the track setting every time you go out.
Cup 2 stabilize quite quick, Dunlops I found did not stabilize as quick or though out the day, I chassed PSI on Race maxx all day, hated that tyre ended up binning them 1/2 worn.
I should explain that my next track is Blyton Park in May which is sessioned. They run 3 groups per hour and you get less than 15 minutes per session. Long enough to get the tyres really hot but if you come in to reduce pressures you cannot go back out in that session. I have no plans to alter the set-up beyond the ARBs.
In my 964 it was quite easy to drop the pressure of the 888s by a sensible amount before a session and they'd be good after a few laps.
I'm looking for a compromised initial pressure that will not damage the tyres (Michelins), assuming its warm and dry.
(Went out last night, 12.5 degrees, dry. Pushed more than previously when safe to do so and was very happy with how the car performs, tyres included. Really grippy, involving, accurate.... The only problem is that it really is too fast for the road at this point)
In my 964 it was quite easy to drop the pressure of the 888s by a sensible amount before a session and they'd be good after a few laps.
I'm looking for a compromised initial pressure that will not damage the tyres (Michelins), assuming its warm and dry.
(Went out last night, 12.5 degrees, dry. Pushed more than previously when safe to do so and was very happy with how the car performs, tyres included. Really grippy, involving, accurate.... The only problem is that it really is too fast for the road at this point)
Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members
Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions
