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Modified 944's
- Thread starter rickware
- Start date
I'm going to disagree on the little filter Partick, because I had one on my ISV and that was exactly where it sat.
My car was booked in for a custom weld-in cage a couple of years ago (and didn't ever get done fo a combination of reasosn) at a place I forget the name of, but who specialise in fitting weld-in cages to cars with full interior. Basically they use heat shielding and build the cage a few inches low, then insert the required amount of extra height at the bottom of the legs before attaching it to the car. They had pics of a DB7 with a full cage they had done among others on their website.
There you go again with the 'Partick' Fen. If you say it in a bad Indian accent with a touch of Brogue I'll accept it. []ORIGINAL: Fen
I actually don't think the Swedish one looks too bad either - I guess quality of workmanship makes a lot of difference. I wouldn't want ti myself, but it doesn't look like a 944 that has driven through Ripspeed like the other one does. I hope its owner never gets hold of a 911.
I'm going to disagree on the little filter Partick, because I had one on my ISV and that was exactly where it sat.
My car was booked in for a custom weld-in cage a couple of years ago (and didn't ever get done fo a combination of reasosn) at a place I forget the name of, but who specialise in fitting weld-in cages to cars with full interior. Basically they use heat shielding and build the cage a few inches low, then insert the required amount of extra height at the bottom of the legs before attaching it to the car. They had pics of a DB7 with a full cage they had done among others on their website.
I find the ultimate line in the sand with regards to modifying our cars is a cage. I just don't want one in my possible daily driver (apart from it being dangerous), so that's what prompted me to build a track specific car. However with the world economy all doom and gloom, it has put the brakes on that project yet I will have a very powerful 3L motor in my car in a few months so I have to reconsider. I wonder what the consensus is on a half cage? Will they work in the worst possible moment?
The good thing about the White car that I posted is that I wondered about a wider body kit that was more like a 930 type rear wheel arch than our hourglass profile. I now know that I don't like it no matter how good the workmanship is. However I do admire it for the obvious quality. From what I understand, this belongs to a shady character in Sweden who has probably funded this with dirty money. So I guess crime does pay but not neccessarily account for taste. []
944 man
Active member
In any case you should fit fixed-back lower mounted seats and satisfy yourself that you will gain a satisfactory and safe clearance.
1. A half cage may have nasty sharp forward pointing bits.
2. A half cage isn't as good as a full cage.
1. Some might have. Many/most are built to order so if you don't order a front section you wont get the brackets.
2. True. But a half cage is better than no cage at all.
bennyboy
New member
Rick, many thanks for your detailed reply. Just for reference, would you be able to post a pick of this, and if possible where the front cage bolts in to also? So if I'm correct, you haven't done any welding so far, just drilled holes to fit bolts into? Cheersjust for clarity, that's the sound proofing at the bottom of the hoop post where it meets the floor that needs to be cut.
944 man
Active member
ORIGINAL: rickware
...just for clarity, that's the sound proofing at the bottom of the hoop post where it meets the floor...
Rick: soundproofing is for girls.
sawood12
New member
I think Pat is right. If you are doing the sort of driving where you think there is a high likelihood of a serious accident then a full cage is the only way to go. But for the typical track-day warrior in a track/street hybrid then I guess a half cage will do.
For a start if you drew a line from the top of the roll bar of a half cage to the front lip of the bonnet it would slice through the head of the driver so as soon as the front part of the roof starts to deform into the car your head is going to get squished. A full cage supports the front part of the roof structure as well.
The half cage in GT3's is not intended for racing but for the enthusiastic track-day warrior. People who want to race 911's don't by GT3's or GT3RS's, they get GT3RSR's which to have proper full FIA approved roll cages.
Peter Empson
PCGB Member
For me a rear cage was a necessity as I simply needed to fit a harness. Without it I was losing time and confidence, not to mention getting a bruised knee after every trackday from bracing myself against the transmission tunnel (and this is with snug fitting bucket seats). I wouldn't want to run a harness without some roll over protection for obvious reasons and I've heard too many horror stories about head injuries from a full cage when used without a crash helmet so that wasn't an option either.
I would now like to add in the door bars if I could find some for sale (as the car probably wont be my daily driver anymore easy access isn't a major concern), but I suspect the bodyshop will take a contract out on me if I give them any more work to do []. I would fit these mainly to allow me to strip the doors out, as they're probably the heaviest bits left now.
944 man
Active member
I think that it would be a mistake to assume that a bolt in rollcage, either full or part, adds a deal to your chassis other than weight. It certainly does not add a great deal of structural stiffness in the way that you are suggesting.
sawood12
New member
ORIGINAL: 944 man
I think that it would be a mistake to assume that a bolt in rollcage, either full or part, adds a deal to your chassis other than weight. It certainly does not add a great deal of structural stiffness in the way that you are suggesting.
Not sure about that, mine is bolt in and offers loads of structural stiffness, easy to tell by driving it and also when you jack it up.
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