][]
I used goodrigde 3/8th ptfe braided hose with standard bsp 3/8th ends and metric adapters for the fuel rail. The filter takes a 3/8th bsp fitting and the return line I changed to bsp fittings. I made the hoses up to go from the fuel filter to the fuel rail on the engine and back to the tank. I put a break in each line just under the floor at the engine end. I crimped all the ends myself using a hydraulic crimpper I borrowed from a mate who used to work for a hydraulic company .I spent a lot of time trying to do this and it cost me more than it would have to buy standard steel lines. But I wanted something which would last longer than the car and be easy to fix without dropping the rear beam. The major problem I had was finding someone who understood what I was trying to do. I spent a whole load of cash and time on buying products from companies that claimed to know what they were doing but could not understand what I was doing. The I took the fuel rail off and took it to a local hydraulic company who instantly gave me what I wanted.The hose it's self was £25 a meter with the ends etc costing pennys. I recon I could do it again for around £150. But I must have wasted £100 on stuff that didn't work . But that's the fun of trying to do something yourself. I'll take some photo's and do a how to at some point.
], you've certainly been putting some polishing time in ! Sorry to hear you're still having water leak issues, I honestly thought I'd cured it - this problem seems to be so common on the 944 but it's never one definitive area [8|] I still have the picture I took of her when we were out in the country one day which is the screen background on my laptop, the front and front three quarter view of her looks really mean and powerful. Keep up the good work ! Norm
The workshop manual shows how to wire the motor plug so you can adjust things correctly. If the rod popped out, check the plastic catch on the end - the securing flap on mine broke off. The new plastic end piece cost about 20p at OPC. If the end flap is clicked into place, the rod is pretty secure.
Sorry, my mistake - at the boot lock end, the rods fit into holes in the actuating arms and are held in by a little plastic clip as you will observe. They just click in. The "end flaps" that lock the rods are on the outer ends, hidden behind the boot lid catches. Apols if this is over-simplistic: the motor that pulls the rods (via a cable) is on the off-side of the rear panel in the boot. One revolution of the motor pulls the cable that pulls a short rod that turns the lock plate that pulls the rods that open the catches. Simples! The workshop manual gives details of a pair of mini jump leads using 1/4" tab crimp connectors; you disconnect the motor from the wiring harness and plug them in as shown in the manual, to make the motor move manually and partially. At the 180 degree position you can adjust the rods to open the catches fully and evenly. The nice detail about the plastic ends on the rods (at the boot lid catch end) is that you can adjust the length by turning them without needing to remove them from the actuating levers. Which is just as well, as the ends are hidden behind the catches, and they break easily when old. The motor is activated either by the button in the footwell, or by the microswitch attached to the boot lock. Presumably it could also be actuated by an alarm system, but mine isn't. So if either switch is working, the boot will release. Adjustment is made by adjusting the cable length to get the right amount of movement in the rods, and then by adjusting the rods so the movement is equal, then repeat to get a satisfactory alignment.
Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members
Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions
