Down to the Cotswolds good blast there, chat, drive around a bit, chat and take some pics, chat and blast home in the rain, just short of 200 miles 
what did you do to your 944 today
- Thread starter colin944
- Start date
Just finished replacing driver side window regulator.Had a spsre in storage and never got around to it, constantly pushing the window closed by hand for mths!!and coming back to find it had slipped a cm or so was time to get it done.I was going to give it to my Indie but decided I had the time and tools(screwdrivers spanner). So got stuck in,these things really are well put together,11 screws on door card and handle,4 on speaker,2 on widow buttons ,card off 3 retaining bolts on inner panel and regulator,eventually got it out,(nasty job),took motor off old one,forced it onto new one,popped it back through its aperture,wired it back and checked it,and caught 2 fingers in blades!! very ouchy and bloody,lined up the rollers on inner door and then tried to do window....No..Must do widow rollers 1st...Eventually after lots of ffing and bleeding got all rollers sorted, then straighten all up to holes(tricky to get them all together whilst keeping the rollers sweet.. Eventually sorted all that then back on with plastic skin and door card and handle and 7 million screws It took 2 cups of coffee some himming and hawing and a little patience..But the result and pleasure of not handing 2 hrs worth of labour to a mechanic are brilliant, and yes I deserve a beer...!Delighted with myself, Im a chef I usually pass the messy stuff onto my Indie...
, Im a chef I usually pass the messy stuff onto my Indie...
bumperblue
New member
Changed a rear wheel bearing on my S2 which had been grumbling for some time. I am very pleased with the outcome as she rides really quiet. A big difference. Gave myself a skill kid award and a beer. Words of advice 1. Buy the Arnworx bearing pulling/inserter works perfectly, very well made with no drama and very smooth extractions and insert. I also used it to replace a bearing on my daughters polo so multi car use. A useful tool addition. 2. buy a slide hammer I used a a Machine mart £55 with a propoer hub bracket two smacks and the hub was off. As opposed to 1.5 hours of hitting with soft mallet and trying various "Heath Robinson" contraptions to try and pull it off. Slide hammers rule. 3. Buy a impact hammer again I bought a Machine mart one and it sorted the 32mm hub nut in a matter of seconds very effective/very aggresive so use with caution. This was purchased after failing to move the nut with a breaker bar and a 4 foot scaffold tube. The nut is on tight! 500N/M 4. Advice from others is use a new hub nut also. Have fun Ian Ian
MartinRS2K
Active member
CDL on the passenger door stopped working suddenly last week so presumed a solenoid failure [] Had a spare hour today so stripped the door to see if this was the case and happily it was just the plastic rod that had become detached from the door lock. All now fixed and a bit of grease on some other parts while I was in there []
] Had a spare hour today so stripped the door to see if this was the case and happily it was just the plastic rod that had become detached from the door lock. All now fixed and a bit of grease on some other parts while I was in there []
scam75
Well-known member
Did an engine flush and oil change. Had clocked up 8k since last change when I went to 10w/60. Have opted for a 10w/50 this time as I felt that the 60 was a smidge thick for freezing cold mornings. I got 10 litres of Total Quartz 10W/50 racing oil for £55 delivered off ebay, seemed a cracking deal. I think it used to be "Elf Excellence" before they merged. Subaru rally cars use it. Anybody else tried it? Definately worth a go at that price for a fully synth racing oil. Stuart
Martin Sage
New member
Well done but I thought fully synthetic wasn't recommended for our engines!?
PSH
PCGB Member
I disagree with this.. oil has advanced greatly since our cars were built and just as semi synthetic is better than mineral oil so is fully synthetic better than semi. Also choosing the correct viscosity is important, some think thicker is better but that's not the case, 70% of all damage is done on start-up and thus a thinner oil will protect quicker. Regarding Stuart's use in a new build, this is debatable, better to use an oil made for running in which is designed to give maximum protection for the short amount of time that the oil will be in the engine. A normal fully synthetic oil for a new engine could risk an increase in wear, being synthetic it's more slippery and thus takes longer to bed in the new parts making contact for the first time so the run in time would be longer, but you can't do this as you need to change the oil and filter very quickly after first starting the engine to flush out all of those damaging metal particles just created in the new engine. Some recommend cheap mineral oil to run in with but personally I'd use a dedicated running in oil. Regards Pete
scam75
Well-known member
Hi Pete When I say fresh engine it was fresh 8k miles ago! I ran it in (1000 miles) on 10/40 semi then changed to a fully synthetic after that. This is now the next change and as said I've notched it back a bit to 10w/50. Although some parts were brand new (big ends, piston rings, head refresh) some other components are still original, crank bearings, oil pump etc so I think a 10w/50 synthetic is a good compromise! Cheers Stuart
Martin Sage
New member
Pete/Stuart that all sounds good but I had an idea there was a thread warning about fully synthetic not being good for the old seals. Maybe it's not the case but I was advised to use 10/40 semi.
PSH
PCGB Member
Hi Martin If using original seals that have had many years with mineral oil then yes there is a high possibility of leaks although not always the case. However just as oil has advanced greatly so have oil seals, with today's being able to deal with both mineral and synthetic oil changed seasonally and mixed as is the case in certain parts of the world, we've lucky here our climate is more stable. There's a greater risk than leaks and that's a synthetic oil breaking down deposits of carbon on old seals that can cause damage to an engine. Taking everything into account a synthetic oil will give far greater protection than mineral, it may be prudent if changing oil in an old car that's only run on mineral oil to use a semi first and then go to full synthetic and change oil more frequently until things settle down. If we are talking a new build with new modern seals which is what I was referring too when talking about Stuarts car then IMHO it's fully synthetic every time after first using a suitable breaking in oil. There are various views an what's best for this, some saying any cheap mineral oil but as I said before I'd prefer a purpose made oil for the job which will probably be cheaper than going to full synthetic although granted more expensive than mineral but will give the protection needed at the most critical time for e new engine. regards Pete.
OLD_ian
New member
Last weekend I picked it up from the shop having had the gearbox replaced, numerous bits of new linkage installed and adjusted, and plugs, leads and air filter done. It's driving better than it ever has. This weekend we were off to Brands Hatch to watch some GT racing. A really really nice drive there and back.
andy watson
Moderator
Bought some new wheels
Martin Sage
New member
Full story please Andy! [8D]
Agreed to buy an S2........oooooops
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